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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. And it squashed your stamping. You'll need to do your stamping after forming like this. To do that, you will need something solid to place inside the holster to provide the solid backing you need for stamping. Tom
  2. You will probably get a better response if you list this separately in a new thread. Tom
  3. Go back to Joyce, work with her to help her understand what you want, and from what I have seen in other posts here, she should be able to help you. Tom
  4. Did you wet form after stamping? If so that softens the edges, losses crispness and definition. Need to minimize how wet you get it when wet forming. Else, as above, stamp harder, make sure the leather has the proper moisture level. Too wet, not good, too dry, doesn't leave a good impression. Tom
  5. Leather point and glovers needles will cut the canvas threads instead of just piercing the canvas. Leads to fraying and a weakened product. You should be using round point needles (typical for fabrics) whether by hand or by machine. Tom
  6. When you size photos for here, 800 x 600 pixels is a good size. Even 1024 x 768 is good. Small photos don't show the detail you are trying to display. Too large and it takes a long time to download when you are on the fringes of the internet with a slow connection. Tom
  7. Stamping is done on cased (moistened) vegetable tanned leather. The leather needs to nearly return to its natural colour before stamping. The stamping burnishes the leather turning it a darker shade. Most add any oil or conditioner after dyeing to replace oils lost during the stamping and dyeing process. Over oiling will leave you with a soggy mess, so use oil very sparingly. If the article has the softness/flexibility you want after it has dried, you can skip oiling it. Tom
  8. They are both soft metals. For hardness see https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Aluminum 2 to 2.9, Brass 3 to 4. So supposedly, brass would wear better. But rugged applications need wider zippers, regardless. Tom
  9. Grain side of leather is the nice side, show side, hair side. Opposite is the flesh side, originally against the meat and fat. Tom
  10. OP appears to be from Brooklyn New York according to the IP address. Tom
  11. Do a search here. 30 results for paisley, patterns to examples. Tom
  12. You can cut a slot in the front of the presser foot, round off the edges and polish a bit. Easy fix. Tom
  13. Merged your posts and deleted redundant multiple posts. Please allow time for the server to respond when posting. The server may be very busy for a moment at times, or you may be on a slow network connection. So after hitting post, relax for a minute! Tom
  14. A photo would provide a lot of help with identifying what this machine might be based on. Front, rear, left end, close up of the needle and presser feet and feed dogs, right end, badges, numbers, underside, bobbin. Tom
  15. Was this from a starter set from Tandy? If so, they are lower quality material than their regular line. Tandy will replace stamps that bend or fall apart or easily damaged through normal use. They replace starter kit stamps with their regular line according to other posts on the forum. Take it back. Tom
  16. Copper rivets, wire, etc. sizes are defined as AWG, American Wire Gauge. There is more info than you ever want to know here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge. Scroll down and you will find a table cross referencing # and diameters. I tend to use #9 for heavy stuff, #12, and rarely #14. You can look up availability at your local Tandy Leather I you are so inclined. Nice to be able to pick it up today instead of waiting several days for shipment. Also make sure you know how to install the rivets. My first attempt was a disaster! So practice on a couple pieces of scrap first. Also do a search here and you will find lots of suggestions. The minimum tools are a punch, an angle cutters (side cutters or nippers), an anvil or other hard solid surface, and a ball peen hammer. Not recommended to use your granite or marble slab as an anvil. Tom
  17. Includes a hand pump. Notice it is a Canadian company, located in the Toronto area. Price I see is $70 Can. So with the exchange rate, In US$ will be around 30% less. Tom
  18. Moved to Leather Sewing Machines.
  19. Original link fixed. For as long as the page stays active! Tom
  20. Seems no response so I am locking the thread and moving it to Old/Sold. Tom
  21. Neatsfoot oil darkens leather. Don't expect it to return to its original colour. As it is absorbed, it might lighten some. Also, note that sunlight naturally darkens leather. Many craftsmen lightly oil the leather and let it sit in the sun for a time to produce a naturally darkened (sun tanned) leather. Tom
  22. Thanks for forwarding, Rawdata, here it is. Tom Claes_Elastik_I_u_III Handleiding.pdf
  23. You state it is 220 single phase, then go on about it being 3 phase, which is it really? And if it is 3 phase, replace the motor and do some rewiring of the control circuits. Can still use the 3 phase contactor on single phase 220. Tom
  24. Take the belt off and turn it over by hand first to make sure nothing got loosened up and out of place. Then put the belt on and go for it. Remember to hold both threads for a couple stitches when you start sewing. Always have leather or something under the feet before you run it with it threaded. Tom
  25. Stamps that have been dipped in the plating process loose their sharpness. Look at the face of each stamp before you buy. Even out of the same batch, you will find some with much more crisp detail than others. This is fine when you are in a store, but more difficult if buying online or by mail order. For more professional work, you may want to upgrade your stamps replacing the poorer quality ones, one at a time. There are lots of good tool makers out there. Tom
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