Northmount

Checkout Cowboy thread at http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html. Has a few colours, and good range of sizes. Tom

The name was likely on some equipment that was imported. Over 50 years in the power/steam/petrochemical/process/ and control systems industries. Hard to remember some of the projects and details. I look back on some of my correspondence on some of these projects and think that guy was pretty sharp compared to me, then see my name at the bottom. We sure tend to lose the detailed knowledge when we move on to other areas of work and specialization. Tom

Terrific work. I much prefer the watch band that is a single band with the watch sitting on top like the black one several photos above. They don't exert continuous stress on the pins. Better for the active working man. Pins last longer and don't get pulled out if you snag the watch strap. Tom

Very good representation of a safety valve. In my other life, have done a lot of work with safety relief valves. Am familiar with your company name. Tom

Check with MattMain. See his recent post. Let us know if volumes 1 and 2 are available. Tom

Thanks for the link. Copied files, optimized and converted to searchable PDF. 5 MB approximately. Tom glove_making os.pdf

You might like a cylinder arm for purses. Tom

Try a loop of fresh tape and keep patting the surface to grab the residue. Works for many types of adhesives, might work for you. Tom

And a quart of milk is about one litre. Tom

If it is nice soft flexible leather, it's not likely veg tanned. Most jacket type leather is chrome tanned from what I have seen. And yes, even chrome tanned leather will bleed through when it gets wet enough (water) or with a more volatile solvent. Walked 5 miles in a pouring rain wearing a black leather jacket. My shirt and skin were blue from the leather dye. Jacket was a little stiffer for a few days after it dried out, but softened back up just by wearing it.m Tom

Try a Google search "site:leatherworker.net rein rounder" and a couple other combinations like "site:leatherworker.net how to make round reins" I know I have seen instructions here on how to, so I think you will find them, or references to them with a few search combinations. The "site:leatherworker.net" parameter restricts the search to this site. Google has bigger and better search engines and better indexing database so works better and faster than our site search works. Tom

The OP appears to be from Gainsville Florida according to the IP address. Maybe someone in the area can recommend a dealer close by. And of course, we recommend supporting our banner advertisers since they support this site, and provide better backup service than many local shops with no leather machine experience. Tom Edit:. I'd like to see all members post their location since this is a worldwide forum. It helps us/you provide more relevant information and help.

Starting from the middle and working both directions reduces the "warp factor" too. Instead of sewing or lacing in both directions, you can mark the centres, use contact cement, and cement together aligning the centre marks. Then you can sew from one side, all the way around. Can even trim before sewing so your corners match up, assuming you cut a little oversize. Really helps your assembly process when you use a sewing machine. Tom

Get both rules, saves time. Else convert to your preferred units and mark up your patterns to suit. Many of my patterns have no measurements, just full size, lay it out, mark around it and cut! Tom

Also called key stock here. Found in big box hardware stores and most metal suppliers. Lots of sizes, 1/8" and up to 5/8" or more. Larger sizes are nice, have the weight to help stay in place, and easier to grab and hold. Tom

Bought mine at Tandy a few years ago. Published 2002 by The Australian Leather Craftsman Publications, 264 Hume Highway, Camden, NSW, Australia 2570. Copyright Peter Main. ISBN 0-9578802-1-9 Google wasn't much help, but did find this http://leathertools.jp/?pid=6443643 Tom

Just tried both links in the original post, both work for me. Maybe try again. Tom

His IP address puts him in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. I don't understand why people don't list their location when using a worldwide forum! Tom

Keep it away from carpet or other material that will take stains easily! Make sure your cheese slicer doesn't have any cheese or greasy stuff on it. Good luck. Good idea to practice first. Tom

Have you looked at these topics? I'm also moving your post to "Leather Sewing Machines" section of the forum. You may get more feedback there. Tom

Billosauro appears to be located in Balga, Western Australia, 6061, Australia based on his IP address. So our Australian members may be of more help than elsewhere in trying to find accessible and affordable parts, if there are any in Australia. Having said that, I'm sure that help from any location is welcomed. Tom

Halitech is right on! Tom

After a 2 or 3 hour power outage, most places send their staff home (if they even lasted that long). Many places can not operate without power. Can't even use the till with no power! It's no fun walking down 25 floors to vacate a building without adequate backup power either! Heck, even a computer network or internet outage shuts down many businesses now a days. I waited quite a while at one gas bar while they re-booted their computer several time to pay for the gas I had pumped. Happened to be exactly 20 bucks so I told the manager I was leaving and here was his $20. He was going to call the cops on me for leaving without paying! Told him to go right ahead, He had my 20. Haven't been back there to fill up since and that was over 20 years ago. Happens to be one of the closest to me, but no class or customer service says never again! Tom

The round leather belt will ride just fine in the pulley on the servo motor. Note you can't do a back/lock stitch by turning a sewing machine backwards. The hook is designed to only pick up the thread loop when turning the correct direction. It can not pick up the thread loop when turned backwards. Tom

Don't measure from hole to hole, as any small errors will keep increasing and throwing your two rows out of sync. Keep the ruler (use a ruler or tape) in place, mark off each hole without moving the ruler down each time. So if you were making the holes 1/2" apart, you mark at 0, 1/2", 1", 1.5", 2", etc. If you use a scratch awl or pencil/pen, just make small marks in a straight line. When punching, press the punch centered over the mark, just hard enough to leave a slight impression. Check to see if it is centered, correct the location if not, then punch the hole using the mark plus the punch impression as a guide. You could make a punching guide or template out of a strip of wood or plexiglass or similar plastic material if you will be making several articles the same. Will help speed up production. You could also use painters green tape to place your marks, and punch through it, then remove the tape after. Then you won't be marking the leather itself. Tom Edit: Or modify this as Halitech suggests above. We posted at the same time!