Northmount

There are threads here about using arbor presses for stamping. One thing to do is drill the arbor press ram to accept a tool handle that is used with alphabet stamp sets such as available at Tandy and other re-sellers. Some of the sets are large enough that you may be able to press directly on the stamp. Anyhow, I'd get the set of stamps of the size and style you want, then see what you need to do with the arbor press. If the search doesn't work to your satisfaction, you can do a google search and include this directive in your search string. site:leatherworker.net It will restrict your search to this site. Tom

See the marketplace rules here http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Pictures, model, etc. Tom

Please read the marketplace rules: http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ and abide by them. Tom

There is a Cobra re-seller at Longview, about an hour south of Calgary off highway 22 that you might be interested in. See their FB https://www.facebook.com/longviewleather/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED&fref=nf or their website http://www.longviewleather.com/ There is another company SE of Edmonton at Delburne that sells industrial leather sewing machines. http://www.leightons.ca/index.html Both these companies are within driving distance if you want to see and try out their machines before you purchase. Tom

Links don't work. Can you try again? Tom

Only dye the outside, should not have a problem on the inside. Tom

Techsew ships here, had mine dropped off on the curb in Calgary, unpacked the pieces from the pallet, bought them in and had it running within 2 hours. I see from your IP address you are in Edmonton. The 2700 series, max bobbin thread is 138. I have run 207 on the top. Note max leather thickness is 3/8". Get it with a speed reducer pulley set. Cylinder arm is great and you can build or buy a table to use it as a flat bed. Phone Ron and talk with him. Tom

They are unique. I was interested to see examples of Aussie flowers, etc. Whether you like the flowers or not, the style and instructions for applying and working with dyes are top notch. US/Canada, you can arrange to buy from Peter Main in Houston. Tom

You can try bleaching it with oxalic acid. Have had good results with it. There are several threads on oxalic acid here if you care to do a search for them. Tom

Hi MarcinB Please add your location to your profile so people know where you are. Tom

You can do a Google search restricted to this site. Include "site:leatherworker.net" along with your search terms (without the quotes) and you can use all the advanced functions of Goggle search. Their search engines have indexed millions or billions of web pages and are faster and better than what this site uses. Try it out and see. Tom

If every one would include their location in their profile, it would be easier to pick out who is near you. Also people near you are more likely to respond. Hope to see you back here soon. Notice you haven't accessed LW since September 2016. Tom

@JohannaI'm seeing the same thing on all dialog boxes. No text, and text missing from buttons. Tom

I get the same result. Try a Google search using "site:leatherworker.net others may" without the quotes. You will get lots of results. Tom

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines where you are more likely to get a response. Help wanted is like the classified ads in a newspaper. I'd suggest you should join the forum here. Lots of good information available and you may contribute your experience and expertise too. OP appears to be located in Simi Valley, California, 93065 according to the IP address. Tom

For a gradient, have you tried using an airbrush? You can use any dye for the process. Dye by itself doesn't create a gradient. It is how you apply the dye that does the job. Tom

You don't have skipped stitches at this point, but this little piece of info goes along with Uwe's comment above about making turns. When you make your turns, either do it just as soon as the needle is buried in the leather, but not to the bottom yet, or wait until the needle bar has risen far enough for the hook to have caught the loop. The aim is to not affect formation of the loop, and to ensure the hook catches the loop, or you will have a skipped stitch. Tom

Pictures would help describe the problem. Tom

I can't see the lines in the photos, so assume you are talking about the marks left by the presser feet. You may be able to reduce the pressure of both the inner and outer feet, to help reduce the amount of marking. Also make sure the leather is dry. Wet will of course mark easier. You can work out the presser feet marks with a spoon, or by tapping with a flat faced hammer. If you reduce the pressure on the presser feet too much, the leather will lift with the needle, and you will lose the loop and have skipped stitches. There are lots of related posts in the sewing machine area. Oh! Great collars. Tom

OP is located at Wasaga Beach, Ontario according to the IP address. Please peoples, add your location so you can get the best information and help from people located in your area of the world. Tom

When you pull the lace tight on soft or moistened leather, the lace will compress the leather and partially embed itself. Space between stitches for the most part, isn't puffed out by any amount. Just not compressed. Tom

Please all read the market place rules. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

Some people just don't have the capability of visualizing things in their heads. For those people that have this capability, it is difficult for them to understand that others don't have it and seem to take forever to understand some of these things. When I took electronics many years ago, I could visualize how electricity flowed through different devices and its behaviour. Couldn't understand why others couldn't grasp the concepts. Then when I used to instruct control systems engineering, I found that students just want to memorize the answers for today's exams, but not to spend time learning the basics so they could then build on that to better understand the next steps. I have a mantra, If you want to be able to control a process, you have to understand the process before you can control it. I think this really applies to all types of troubleshooting. The part of my work over the years that I have enjoyed the most is troubleshooting. Being able to visualize it in your head, and to at least mentally collect the details of what has happened, or is happening makes the difference in being successful at troubleshooting. Tom

I would questioned that it was actually veg tanned. Thickness doesn't matter. Thinner leather won't need much soak time, a few seconds. Thicker leather will of course take longer to soak through to the core. Cut a test strip and see if it will stretch when soaked, if not, move onto another piece that is definitely veg tanned. Tom Edit: I noticed a post further back in this thread where a person is using chrome tanned. So it is possible.

Has to be veg tanned. If you are not sure, take a strip, soak it for 10 seconds, see if it stretches easily. If it does, you are good to go. Tom Edit: I see a post further back in this thread where a person is using chrome tanned and it is working for him.