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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. The 2# Tandy anvil is a good paper weight and that's all. You need at least a 15# anvil. See Canadian Tire in Canada, or Harbor Freight in the USA. Tom
  2. See this post Tom
  3. Moisten slightly and carefully go over the impressions with a spoon. Be careful or you can leave more impressions you don't want. Tom
  4. No tools here to rotate that I have seen. The photo is likely from a smart phone or other camera that saves the orientation and lots of other info as EXIF data inside the digital photo. You might try another photo editor to rotate and save the photo. IrfanView might work for you if you also download and install the EXIF plugin. It's a free download. Many browsers do not support EXIF data so won't rotate the photo to its original orientation. Some info here about EXIF https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/exif-photo-data-find-understand/ You can use ExifTool https://sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/ to remove the EXIF data. Install the software on your computer and run it at the command line example exiftool -all= SourceFile.jpg and substitute the photo's filename in place of "SourceFile". I see that Windows 10 File Explorer will allow you to edit the EXIF data. Right click on the file and select properties, Details. I haven't tried it so you are on your own to experiment with it. Play with a copy. Photoshop and LightRoom have a file menu item to "save file for web". It removes personal data. Haven't checked to see what it leaves unchanged. Tom
  5. Here women used to use garter straps and a garter belt to hold up their silk or nylon stockings. So I see where the use of suspenders would apply. Men just used a tight elastic band (garter) to help hold up knee high socks. That would strangle my legs and just about kill me. Tom
  6. Also note that kevlar thread is very abrasive and wears grooves in the thread path. Tom
  7. Wrap the bible with paper the way you want the cover to be. Add enough for the seam allowance, and add some extra pocket width and depth so the bible's cover doesn't get hung up while pushing them into your leather cover. I'd add at least 1/2" all the way around to get to your stitch line, then about an 1/8" more from the stitch line to the edge. You can cut some scrap leather the same thickness as you are going to use to make just a 1" wide strap. So it's just a narrow section for test purposes to see how the leather lays, how much room you want for the pocket, etc. I'd still add a little extra beyond that. Watch your glue line as it can eat up some of the pocket space! Clear as mud, I suppose, but experiment to see if the test strip works for you. Tom
  8. I wouldn't even try my left hand. My right hand can hardly sign my name most days! Can't even read my own writing half the time now. Thank heavens for computers, I can still type and correct, so it is readable! Tom
  9. Not too bad really! Just accept the learning experience and continue on. If you want, you can beat it up a bit and call it distressed, aged, etc. Now you know that dye can bleed right through the leather. So the best treatment inside may be just to slick the inside with gum trag to lay the fibers down. Or better yet, line it with a thin lining leather like pigskin. Tom
  10. Take a look at this "thread" http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/9223-need-supplier-for-bonded-kevlar-thread/ There are other "threads" here on leatherworker.net if you care to do a search for them. Do a google search with the following search string. "site:leatherworker.net kevlar thread" minus the quotation marks. Restricts the search to this site. Tom
  11. Cut the end off the posts if they are too long. Often giving one heavy wack will bend to one side if not perfectly lined up. Tapping and rotating the tool angle a little may help you. Tom
  12. Needle thread size chart http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html 16 or 18 for 69 thread Tom
  13. Here are a couple I found. You can do a google search for more. Found some that sell only in lots of 500! That would last forever. http://www.talasonline.com/Ring-Book-Mechanisms https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/70d2bb14-d915-47ff-b95e-d4442388697d/BINDER-7 Tom
  14. Used mine a couple weeks ago, had to replace a line on my compressor. I have a newer one that works a little better than the old one. Should dump the old one someday I guess. Tom
  15. For general information. 1 oz = 1/64" and of course there are 25.4 mm per inch. Tom
  16. Bottom item looks an awful lot like half of my copper tubing flaring tool. Check out Bruce Johnson's rein rounders for comparison. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/leather-bench-machines-sale/ Tom
  17. You appear to be USA based. Would be a good idea to add your location to your profile so you can get location specific responses rather then half way around the world from you. Try http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.php for new dies. They have some standard dies, ready made, plus can make any you wish. Tom
  18. Yes, they don't bottom out, letting you cinch down tighter on thinner materials. Tom
  19. Buff it off. Remove the extra pigment from the surface. Next time, preferably before you start putting any finish on top. Tom
  20. Reset the safety clutch Tom
  21. Fingernail polish works to lock the threads too. Tom
  22. Very neat and precise work. Tom
  23. Belts don't need to be really tight. Some users leave some slack so they can use the right hand to slow the machine down somewhat, especially if they are using a clutch motor. A little slack is also good if you happen to pull the needle to one side, breaking it, and causing a jam. Then you don't have to rely as much on the safety clutch to protect your machine. Generally there is enough adjustment on the motor bracket to allow you to tighten the belt as far as needed. If the belt is not the right length, you won't be able to adjust it. Vee belts should not ride on the bottom of the pulley. The top of the belt should generally be flush or nearly flush with the top of the pulley. It is the friction on the sides of the belt that transmit the driving force to/from the pulleys. At the mid point between pulleys, you should be able to depress the belt about an inch with firm thumb pressure. Should not be hard to do. It is not like vee belts driving fans, ac compressor and alternator on a car. They need to be much tighter due to the amount of power they have to transmit. Tom
  24. Strange about receiving emails even though you have configured your profile to not send email. I have the opposite, configured to send me emails for certain cases, never receive any. Login to your profile and give it a fake email address. That should stop them, and you shouldn't be bothered with any more. Worth a try. Tom
  25. Fantastic work! Very well done. Tom
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