Northmount

@JohannaI'm seeing the same thing on all dialog boxes. No text, and text missing from buttons. Tom

I get the same result. Try a Google search using "site:leatherworker.net others may" without the quotes. You will get lots of results. Tom

Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines where you are more likely to get a response. Help wanted is like the classified ads in a newspaper. I'd suggest you should join the forum here. Lots of good information available and you may contribute your experience and expertise too. OP appears to be located in Simi Valley, California, 93065 according to the IP address. Tom

For a gradient, have you tried using an airbrush? You can use any dye for the process. Dye by itself doesn't create a gradient. It is how you apply the dye that does the job. Tom

You don't have skipped stitches at this point, but this little piece of info goes along with Uwe's comment above about making turns. When you make your turns, either do it just as soon as the needle is buried in the leather, but not to the bottom yet, or wait until the needle bar has risen far enough for the hook to have caught the loop. The aim is to not affect formation of the loop, and to ensure the hook catches the loop, or you will have a skipped stitch. Tom

Pictures would help describe the problem. Tom

I can't see the lines in the photos, so assume you are talking about the marks left by the presser feet. You may be able to reduce the pressure of both the inner and outer feet, to help reduce the amount of marking. Also make sure the leather is dry. Wet will of course mark easier. You can work out the presser feet marks with a spoon, or by tapping with a flat faced hammer. If you reduce the pressure on the presser feet too much, the leather will lift with the needle, and you will lose the loop and have skipped stitches. There are lots of related posts in the sewing machine area. Oh! Great collars. Tom

OP is located at Wasaga Beach, Ontario according to the IP address. Please peoples, add your location so you can get the best information and help from people located in your area of the world. Tom

When you pull the lace tight on soft or moistened leather, the lace will compress the leather and partially embed itself. Space between stitches for the most part, isn't puffed out by any amount. Just not compressed. Tom

Please all read the market place rules. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

Some people just don't have the capability of visualizing things in their heads. For those people that have this capability, it is difficult for them to understand that others don't have it and seem to take forever to understand some of these things. When I took electronics many years ago, I could visualize how electricity flowed through different devices and its behaviour. Couldn't understand why others couldn't grasp the concepts. Then when I used to instruct control systems engineering, I found that students just want to memorize the answers for today's exams, but not to spend time learning the basics so they could then build on that to better understand the next steps. I have a mantra, If you want to be able to control a process, you have to understand the process before you can control it. I think this really applies to all types of troubleshooting. The part of my work over the years that I have enjoyed the most is troubleshooting. Being able to visualize it in your head, and to at least mentally collect the details of what has happened, or is happening makes the difference in being successful at troubleshooting. Tom

I would questioned that it was actually veg tanned. Thickness doesn't matter. Thinner leather won't need much soak time, a few seconds. Thicker leather will of course take longer to soak through to the core. Cut a test strip and see if it will stretch when soaked, if not, move onto another piece that is definitely veg tanned. Tom Edit: I noticed a post further back in this thread where a person is using chrome tanned. So it is possible.

Has to be veg tanned. If you are not sure, take a strip, soak it for 10 seconds, see if it stretches easily. If it does, you are good to go. Tom Edit: I see a post further back in this thread where a person is using chrome tanned and it is working for him.

Here are a couple more files Eric sent me to post as they were too large for his access. Tom Compound Feed Machines.pdf Needle information.pdf

Glovers needles have a triangular point, sharp on the edges. Unless you are very careful, you will cut the first thread when placing the second needle while doing a saddle stitch. You need harness needles. Tom

Take a look at Molding after tooling/stamping reduces the crispness and detail. Makes is mushy. Build forms you can use to backup the leather for tooling after the wet molding has been done. Tom

His IP address puts him at Ogden, Utah, 84405 Tom

A couple things to check. If making a sharp turn, make sure the needle has started to ascend and the hook has caught the loop. If the hook hasn't caught the loop, may have skipped stitches. Also, if you lift the presser foot too high while making turns, it will release the top tension, so won't pull the bobbin thread up. Tom

Try http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/Embossing-Wheels_c3.htm Have rolls plus hand cranked embossing machine. Tom

OP is located in London, UK according to the IP address. For all users that don't list their location, you will get better/ more useful responses for many of your questions if you list your location. You might even find someone next door, or just down the street from you. Tom

It's great! Tom

Or it is being applied too thick. I did that with Neat Lac many years ago. Much better to put it on thin. If more protection is required, possibly another thin coat after the first has dried well. Another possibility is the leather wasn't dry yet after what ever previous work was done, wet from tooling, wet dye, ... allow to dry 24 hours first. Tom

Staples work too. Remove just before you reach them so they don't deflect the sewing machine needle. Depending on what I'm working with, I prefer to glue with contact cement, next option, leather tape or double sided tape, next staples, next poke a single hole every so often and tie together with thread. Don't like the time it takes to tie though. On pre-punched kits, I would tie them together to align all the parts, then of course hand stitch or lace after. Tom

Go to your profile, pick settings, more settings, email notifications and check off what you want, or none. Tom

Try site:leatherworker.net for Google searches inside this site. Tom