Northmount

TZHunter is trying to contact you. See above post. Tom

You have someone interested in your machine. See post above. Tom

Please read http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

Please read this http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

There is another thread I read here recently about sharpening. The poster reduces the pressure on the stone as he is sharpening rather than moving up to finer and finer grits. Makes sense that your won't scratch as deep with less pressure against the stone. I use some cheap diamond sharpening plates. They never list the grit size, just coarse, medium and extra fine. Once the blade is shaped and the deep machine marks are scrubbed off, should never need to go back to the coarse stone to sharpen. After sharpening, I go through 2 levels of abrasive stropping. If stropped regularly, you should rarely need to go back to even the extra fine stone. Only if the knife is abused, should you need to go back to a stone to repair damage to the edge and faces. Tom

Moved your post to "How do I do that". Help wanted is like the newspaper classified ads, people looking for work, or looking to hire. To glue leather to a plastic surface, the shiny plastic needs to be abraded to give the glue/cement a "tooth" to hang on to. Good grades of contact cement do well when properly applied. Follow the directions, don't stick together while wet. There are a number of threads about proper use of contact cement. Also a couple threads about building rope cans. Try a search for more information. Tom

The hotter you turn the juice up, the hotter the handle gets. I would suspect that there is a big difference in how various pieces of leather respond. Higher moisture content is going to be harder to burn, and will coat your tip with chemicals boiling off the leather. I burned some initials into alum tanned cowhide some time back. I was using the rough out, suede side. A test left ash in the suede around the initials and would make a smudgy mess. So I tried another test piece with an acrylic finish diluted and rubbed into the suede. Burned nice and didn't leave messy ash behind. Must have stayed imbedded in the acrylic. It burned nicely, no problems with the tip. It had been left to dry for several hours before burning. So I would say use dry leather, lowest moisture content to avoid the gunk accumulating so quickly on the tip and keep the temperature down. Build up the density with more passes or shading rather than going hotter. Hotter sticks to the leather easier, making a more bumpy appearance. You might need to dry some of your leather with a hot box. Oil it afterwards to replace oils and moisture lost in drying. Tom

My iPad has gotten real slow too. The OS upgrades for the older iPads really have slowed it down. Often takes up to 10 seconds to respond to a touch or tap. Anyhow, I won't be buying another iPad or any Apple product. Tom

Nice job. Now let's see your new "master" wearing it! Tom

And your selling price is ??????????????? Tom

Check this post Tom

The noise/squeal of that motor would make me even crazier than I am already! Tom Chances are a diode or SCR is shorted out. If so will cook the windings or some part of the circuit before long. The squeal is similar to the sound of a shorted diode in an alternator. Then the windings start to stink as it gets worse.

IP address places the OP in Quebec Since this is a world wide forum, it would be really nice if people would include their location in their profile. The would get better info with searches for equipment, etc. Would know what their dollar is. Tom

Something strange! Usually top tension increases with a thicker thread if you haven't adjusted anything. Seems strange you have less top tension. Go back to 69 thread and make sure it still works, then try 90 on top with no adjustments to see what you need to change. Then go for 90 on the bottom. See what result each change produces. Tom

The type of servo motors used on sewing machines follows the general rule for most motors. The slower the motor goes, the less torque there is available. So the idea for tough or thick leather is to use both a servo motor and a reduction pulley or gear reducer set. The servo motor gives you easier speed control versus a clutch motor, and the speed reducer lets you run the motor at a higher speed so you will have the torque necessary to punch through that first stitch, or to crawl along at a stitch per second, or even slower depending on your setup. I can go as slow as 7 seconds per stitch, but the high end speed is severely reduced. Tom

The clutch motor's torque remains constant, however the lower speed at the sewing machine results in increased torque at that point, so yes, will punch through tough items more easily. The inertia in a clutch motor also helps punch through that first stitch. It doesn't usually stall. Tom

You should specify your location. From your IP address you appear to be in Texas. This is a world wide forum. Some description of the type of hammer you are looking to repair would be helpful too. Is it a claw hammer with stacked leather rings in the handle, or a rawhide mallet, or ... ? Tom

Really now! 7 posts all the same! Don't keep hitting your submit button. Give the server a chance to do its job. It may be busy with other posts, or you may be on a slow network connection. Tom

Really! Duplicated 4 times. Please don't keep hitting the save/submit/post button several times. Give the server a chance to do its job. It could be busy or your network/internet connection could be slow, so you don't see the response happen instantly. Tom

My 2700 tends to feed towards one side as well. Doesn't sew straight without being guided. Tom

Resize photos to 800 x 600 pixels. For your file that is being a problem, try emailing it to yourself and see what happens. In Windows Explorer, select the file, send to recipient, etc. The file might be corrupted, but I would question that if you can view it without problems. Is the file extension .jpg or .jpeg? If it is .jpeg, try renaming a copy. Tom

And your asking price and shipping? Tom

And the problem and repairs were ?????? I think all those following this thread would like to know. I certainly would. Tom

Take the belt off and rock the drive pulley by hand, else you are likely to do more damage. When a machine is locked/seized up, trying to power through is looking for a lot more damage and problems. Have you got the bobbin, carrier, and hook out? If not pull them out so you know they are not jammed. Tom

Moved to 'how do I do that'. Punch two holes, cut the slit between with a sharp knife. Or buy a special punch from Tandy or other supplier. Tom