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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Just a point of clarification. The needle direction for a zigzag machine is with the groove facing the front of the machine. Has to be that way for the hook to pick up the thread as it zigzags. If the angle is off, it may drop stitches only on one or both sides while doing a zigzag stitch. If the needle is positioned with the groove on the left, it is highly unlikely for the hook to pickup the needle thread. And if it does, it's likely to bind up in a couple stitches and make a bird's nest under the needle plate and around the bobbin. Don't ask how I know. There are some posts here about selection of the correct needle size for thread. One method described is to take about a yard of thread, thread it through a needle (not in the machine!). When holding the thread at a diagonal, the needle should be able to slide down the thread. If it won't it has too small an eye. Tom
  2. When you upload a photo, there is a plus sign next to the photo in the upload area. Click on the plus sign to anchor the photo to the spot in the text that your cursor was at. Failing to do so may drop the photo. And of course if you forgot to upload the photo, that's a different problem. Just like forgetting to add an attachment to an email like we have all done! Tom
  3. I remember my dad re-lacing an 8" wide drive belt for a threshing machine and a feed mill back in the 1950s. Was a composition belt about 30' long when looped. No leather on that one! Tom
  4. Here is the pdf. Thanks to SamB for making it available. Archery_Arm_Guard_(web).pdf @tazar @TomWisc Tom
  5. See the sample in this post. Tom
  6. 3" to 6" gives a speed reduction of 3/6 = 0.5 (or 1/2 if you wish). 1.5" to 2.5" gives 1.5/2.5 = 0.6. 0.5 x 0.6 = 0.3, so the final speed is 30% of the motor rpm, = 382.5 rpm if there is no belt slippage. No fancy calculator required, just some basic math. And yes, your result of 1/3 is close enough for estimating purposes. 33% versus 30%. Good job. If you have the time, it certainly saves a few dollars. Here is what I did with mine! Still using the bungee cord too. Tom
  7. Suppliers I have used are https://www.kjmagnetics.com/ and http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32065&cat=1,42363,42348 Tom
  8. @jayker2002 Moved back to Marketplace, only the Basic Set was sold. Tom
  9. Per the OP, only the Basic Set is sold, the rest is still for sale. Moved back to Marketplace. Tom
  10. Are you going to remove the current finish or trying to dye over the finish? I would suggest removing as much of the finish as you can first. Some people will dye with blue before they go to black. And yes, dilute resolene 50/50. Tom
  11. So was it sold or not? You posted it was sold, so I locked and moved it to the section old/sold. If it is still available, not sold, I can move it back. Tom
  12. Happy Birthday @Johanna from all of us from all around the world. Have a great day, and many, many more. Tom
  13. Did this for my wife back in 1969. Still gets used. Block of plywood and some coat hanger wire. Instead of soldering the wire the plate, jsut drill some holes in the wood and drive the wire in. If a tight fit, no glue required. Tom
  14. I have been cutting 6" circles with a 1 ton arbor press. It is clamped to the bench, and added a piece of 3/4" pipe to the handle for the harder, thicker leathers. So I would say you should be able to do well for your pieces with a 3 ton arbor press. Then you shouldn't need to add the snipe for more leverage. Tom
  15. It probably depends a lot on where you are located and what your local market is like. From your IP address, it appears you are located in/near Germanton, North Carolina. Perhaps you could add your location to your profile plus a little more information about you so others can give advice relative to your area. Tom
  16. Moved to How do I do that Tom
  17. OP is located in or near Toronto, ON according to his IP address. Tom
  18. If you moisten the leather a little, it will help reduce the amount of dye that wicks beyond your brush. And of course, as above, don't load the brush heavily with dye. Touch the brush to the leather a little way away from the edge of the portion you are dying, and work slowly towards the edge. Do a little practice on some scrap to get a feel for it. Don't saturate the leather with water, or with dye. Tom
  19. I should try that!
  20. Add a set of speed reducing pulleys. You will have great torque and very slow speed if you size them right. Can purchase a set, or build your own depending on your abilities and time. There are lots of posts about using speed reducers here if you care to search for them. Tom
  21. Do I really have to sing? You wouldn't like my croaky voice! Tom
  22. Looks great. I'll follow along here and probably try it out too in the near future. Tom
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