Northmount

@ljk moved to > market place > items for sale .... Deleted double post Tom

As Dwight says above, " The key is the insulation. The building has a minimum of 4 inches of styrofoam insulation in the walls and 6 inches in the ceiling and the floors. " Foamed-in-place insulation is the best bet, reduces air infiltration and exfiltration. My son's workshop uses foam insulation, drywall on the walls, open ceiling, 14" high ceiling, open trusses. Uses nat gas radiant heating, leaves the temperature set at 40 F when not working. Sets up to 65 or so when he is working in it. Shop is comfortable, and stays dry except when bringing his tractor inside after moving snow. Then it takes time to remove the moisture to due to how well sealed the shop is. Remember with radiant heating, only what is exposed to the radiant tube receives direct heat. Convection from those surfaces does the rest. He really doesn't notice the cost of heating the shop due to how well it is insulated. Winter in his location is down to -40. Adequate insulation really makes the biggest difference to comfort and utility costs. Foamed-in-place insulation done right can eliminate the cold steel or wood bridging from outside to inside. I don't believe you will have problems with leather drying out anymore than with other heating systems, as long as it is not too close to the radiant tube. Tom

Please include photos. Your IP address indicates you are near South Fork ... for anyone looking for a more precise location. Tom

@Mizzy I moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines. Will get more exposure to members in the know. What a find, and from what I understand, unusual to find many used machines in Australia. I see from your IP address that you are in New South Wales. Tom

The thing you apparently don't use to iron (press) your shirt or pants. Tom

If you use a leather point needle, you will get less blow out on the back side. You can also try hammering the back side to flatten it out somewhat. A touch of moisture may help. Keep experimenting to find what works best for you. Note that leather point needles are not good for textiles as they cut the threads instead of passing through or between the textile threads. Tom

Thanks. Has gone through several iterations to make it neater and to arrive at the proper sequence to allow machine stitching. Glued or taped, hammered flat, stitched to keep it flat and to prevent pieces being pulled out or loosened by wear and tear. Tom

Here are some photos during assembly of a small accordion change purse. Copied from a pre-WWII German made purse that was falling apart. Also PDF with pieces and dimensions. Interior was Coated Polyester to reduce bulk and thickness. Original was a very soft leather. These ones were made using some thin pigskin, so don't have quite the same appearance or feel. And yes they are difficult to work with. I machine sewed these. Some of my stitch lines were bad because of trying to get the needle and presser foot into tight spots. Original one I did, I used a lot of crazy glue. Later ones I used leather tape to hold everything together for sewing. Dividers needed stiffening too. Hope this helps with your project. Original purse: Copies: Pocket Change Purse Rev 1.pdf Tom

100% agree!

It is no sin telling where you got a pattern from (unless you stole it and that is the sin). Selling copies of it or otherwise distributing it if copyrighted is. Tom

@HondoMan You need to propose an approximate outside diameter of the stamped circle. We have no idea of your application, so obviously can't provide a solution. Use my info from above with your preferred diameter and stamp length. Tom

If you reverse at the wrong point in the stitch cycle, you may loose the loop that was being formed. Try making sure the needle is on it's upstroke (after the hook has caught the loop). Tom

His IP address is located in Franklin Ohio Tom

Yes, share some more info with us. Text, photos, whatever. Thanks Tom

I'd make a new top. 2 layers of 3/4" plywood or MDF with Arborite or other laminate on top. Much less problem than filling the space. Allows you to place motor and machine where it fits best for you. Rout out a ledge for the machine to sit in. Hinges on a flatbed are handy but not necessary, but are nice to have. Tom

What I was taught many years ago is not quite true! It is a combination of raw and heated oil. Just looked it up in Wikipedia to refresh my memory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil Quoted ........................................ Stand oil Stand oil is generated by heating linseed oil near 300 °C for a few days in the complete absence of air. Under these conditions, the polyunsaturated fatty esters convert to conjugated dienes, which then undergo Diels-Alder reactions, leading to crosslinking. The product, which is highly viscous, gives highly uniform coatings that "dry" to more elastic coatings than linseed oil itself. Soybean oil can be treated similarly, but converts more slowly. On the other hand, tung oil converts very quickly, being complete in minutes at 260 °C. Coatings prepared from stand oils are less prone to yellowing than are coatings derived from the parent oils.[19] Boiled linseed oil Boiled linseed oil is a combination of raw linseed oil, stand oil (see above), and metallic dryers (catalysts to accelerate drying).[19] In the Medieval era, linseed oil was boiled with lead oxide (litharge) to give a product called boiled linseed oil.[20][page needed] The lead oxide forms lead "soaps" (lead oxide is alkaline) which promotes hardening (polymerisation) of linseed oil by reaction with atmospheric oxygen. Heating shortens its drying time. End Quote ............................................. Tom

It is never boiled. It is treated with additional chemicals including drying agents that help it dry faster. Many of the same driers as used in oil based paints. Boiled Linseed Oil is really a misnomer. Tom

Moved your post to "Leather Sewing Machines". Please take a look at pinned topics like Tom

Wipe it down with a solvent such as varsol or other paint thinner for oil based paints. Might have to do that 2 or 3 times to remove the sticky partially set BLO. Tom

And the photos are? And your location appears to be Huntley Illinois according to your IP address? Tom

Wow! Great work! Tom

Hi Uwe Is the pin supporting the latch (or pawl) an eccentric? Where there happens to be 2 lock screws, there isn't likely a flat on the pin so 2 screws to make sure the pin stays in position. Just a guess, but you are the fellow to investigate ... and can avoid having to grind the latch if such is the case. (I used to work on a lot of mechanical accounting machines in the ancient past. There were many eccentrics to adjust!) Tom

I have used Kydex to make clips that hold the phone, either wrapped around the sides or top to bottom. Heat formed it, and cemented it to the leather case. I have used a wallet style that flips up to open or like a book cover that flips to the left side. I think the book type is more user friendly and shields the ear from some of the ambient noise. There are also photos here somewhere that show the ruggedized case cemented or riveted to a leather wallet cover. Some ideas for you. I might use that Nano Suction stuff for the next one instead of clips. Tom

If you so a search for "iphone 10 specification" (or other make and model), you will find a link like this https://www.apple.com/ca/iphone-x/specs/ It will give the dimensions so you can build to fit. You can print actual size and even get the proper radius for the corners. I have made wooden blocks the same size as the specifications so I could wet mold a case to fit. Tandy has some self adhesive tacky stuff now that you can adhere to the leather and just press against the phone's back to hold it in place. Got a piece on sale a while ago, have yet to make anything using it. It's called "Nano Suction Sheet". https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/nano-suction-sheet-8-1-2-x-11-x-1-mm-216-x-279-x-1-mm Tom

Grind or file the tip off the set screw, or as above, grind or file a flat on the blade shaft. Tom