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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Techsew in Montreal, @Techsew Ron is a member here and has a banner ad at the top of the page. Each time you refresh, new ads will be displayed. Another member @catskin is in Saskatoon and may be able to direct you to someone closer. According to the IP address, he/she is in Swift Current Saskatchewan. Tom
  2. Use respirators with cartridges designed for the stuff you want to filter out. Some are listed as being for organics. Cap the cartridges when not in use to extend their life. If you can smell the stuff you are using through the cartridge, it's past time to replace it. Another option is to use a hood with a fresh air supply. For really nasty stuff and for dusty applications, I use a Triton hood like the photo, but hooked up to the exhaust of an old stick vacuum located outside. There are several manufactures of similar face shields and hoods. Your shop still needs to be ventilated to remove that noxious stuff. Tom
  3. See attached file Tom Making a saddle.pdf
  4. Roy Davis, Please read and abide by the market place rules, http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom
  5. Moved to used sewing machines Tom
  6. Add some photos please. Tom
  7. Do you realize the time zone difference? Fellow needs to sleep sometime. 3PM here, roughly 11PM there. Tom
  8. Moved it to leather machinery / clickers Tom
  9. djmc5678's IP address resolves to this location if it helps any: softbank060091103200.bbtec.net Nishinomiya, Hyōgo, 662-0933, Japan Tom
  10. Take a look at http://www.leightons.ca/used-landis-30.html You will have to email them for a price. Tom
  11. Fixed the link in the original post. Tom
  12. Just using the end of the ram. A plate as you have shown would help as long as the size of die is not too large. You could move up to a 3 ton arbor press if you want more punching power. Tom
  13. Instructions and foils to use are fairly common to most hot foil presses. There are a number of videos on YouTube for different manufacturers. They all have some useful details if your are patient enough to wade through them. Tom
  14. Saddle stitch or machine stitch. Tom
  15. It looks pretty good. You do some great work. Tom
  16. I have just glued a patch on the inside for many tears. Use a similar leather so it has relatively the same flexibility, skive the edges of the patch a little, use a good grade of glue/cement. Where you have access to the back, I'd use contact cement. Tom
  17. Works for small items. Have done 4" circle in 8/9 oz heavy temper leather, had to use 4 bites to make it work, plus some extra leverage. Tom
  18. And they lose torque at low speeds, thus the need for speed reducer pulleys unless you are only dealing with thin soft leather. Tom
  19. I would try laying the pieces out on a table, flat. Then try to arrange so they overlap and fill the area you need for your panel size. Trim the overlaps where needed, glue and stitch. May need to cut some pieces in half to fill voids on the edges. The pattern doesn't need to be repeatable, could be completely random. I think stitching them face to face and turning them face out would make the piece quite bulky and it may not lay flat. That's why I would do overlapping seams. Try a small panel and see if it works the way you want. Then let us know the best way you come up with. looking forward to seeing photos of the results, both as panels, and as a finished project. Good luck. Tom
  20. If the photo is deleted from the hosting site, then you are left with a broken link. Also if someone closes, or re-organizes their hosting site, the photos are all gone from leatherworker.net. Some of the threads and posts become useless as there is no longer any illustrations. It is far better to re-size your photos to fit, so they will stay with your post and complement the text. Tom EDIT Feb 25 2023: This is an example from this thread of what happens to many 3rd party hosted photos. Post below has been severely edited to remove extraneous material.
  21. CDSP IP address indicates he/she is in Brussels, Brussels Capital, 1012, Belgium A note to all members, especially new members: Please list your location. It helps get you better answers, especially for things that are local to you. You might also find someone who lives close to you that can help with one-on-one tutoring, etc. Maybe even a free coffee! Tom
  22. Vacuum cleaner motors may be much higher speed than what you want. They really wind up! Tom
  23. As a moderator, I don't have the time to read every post that comes in. I do have a life beyond LW.net. Sometimes there may be 2 or 3 or more days between my appearance here, and I don't go back more than about a day to see if there is anything that needs fixed or commented. Moderators are volunteers, not paid full-time staff. You can "report" a post that needs attention by clicking on "report post" in the upper right of the post. Then it is flagged to all moderators and they will see it when they next login. Hope you have a better day today! Tom
  24. You might need to remove this spacer and make your own if an 8-32 Chicago Screw is too large. You can see how long it needs to be and cut tubing to fit. I'm trying to remember if I used tubing. I may have used a hex nut as a spacer. Likely 1/4" NC. I know I started out trying to use a piece of tubing, but when you mentioned that the Chicago Screw won't fit the existing spacer, I doubt that it would fit 1/4" tubing either. Memory is less than perfect! Have to go check now to see. Will edit this after I check it out. Tom Edit: Okay, the shank of the 8-32 Chicago screw just nicely fits through a 1/4" NC hex nut. So I'm pretty sure that is what I used instead of a piece of tubing. You could pad that with an extra washer if you need more height, or use a stack of washers. Edited post above to replace 1/4" tube with a 1/4" NC Hex Nut.
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