Northmount

Thanks for forwarding, Rawdata, here it is. Tom Claes_Elastik_I_u_III Handleiding.pdf

You state it is 220 single phase, then go on about it being 3 phase, which is it really? And if it is 3 phase, replace the motor and do some rewiring of the control circuits. Can still use the 3 phase contactor on single phase 220. Tom

Take the belt off and turn it over by hand first to make sure nothing got loosened up and out of place. Then put the belt on and go for it. Remember to hold both threads for a couple stitches when you start sewing. Always have leather or something under the feet before you run it with it threaded. Tom

Stamps that have been dipped in the plating process loose their sharpness. Look at the face of each stamp before you buy. Even out of the same batch, you will find some with much more crisp detail than others. This is fine when you are in a store, but more difficult if buying online or by mail order. For more professional work, you may want to upgrade your stamps replacing the poorer quality ones, one at a time. There are lots of good tool makers out there. Tom

Rubber mallets do not work for striking stamps. Also, case your leather, else it won't make much of an impression. The larger the stamp, the more force/impact is required to make an impression. Makers mark stamps are large enough that they tend to bounce when you are pounding on them, and make shadow impressions. Use of a deadblow hammer helps to avoid the shadow impressions. If you need to strike again, carefully re-seat the stamp in the first impression to avoid shadow impressions. Overall dye will tend to hide your mark. An antique will help it stand out. A hot enough stamp and all you have to do is press it against the leather to burn in its impression. Depending on the size of the stamp, it may take several minutes to heat up hot enough to burn into the leather. Tom

Referring to the manual, the potentiometer is item 7. It is wired in series with the end switch item 8. So is used according to page 2 to make small adjustments in the cutting depth. It is not part of the power cord circuit. The nameplate item 1 on page 2 shows the voltage the machine was designed and setup for. I assume this is the tag you were identifying in your previous posts about the voltage. Page 2 shows a box on the right near the rear. This appears to be the control box and I assume is where your red and black buttons are. It would appear that there is an electromagnetic switch (relay) that starts and stops the motor. Red is likely the on push button. When it is pressed, it applies control power to the mag switch, closing the circuit for the motor, and seals itself in to keep the motor running. The black switch breaks the control circuit opening the motor circuit. The control power appears to be 24 VAC, supplied by a control power transformer. So without any mains power being supplied, there is no connection to the motor. The continuity you are measuring is only the primary circuit of the control power transformer. I would recommend that you get a qualified electrician to test and install your wiring as it is beyond your scope of experience and knowledge. And as said before, 220 is single phase. 208 is three phase. Some photos would go a long ways toward identifying the various switches, parts and locations. Tom

Where the outside plate says 220, I would say it is very likely single phase. If it said 208, then I would say it is 3 phase. These are standardized descriptions. For the equipment to be sold in North America, it had to meet these standards. A 220 VAC motor will have quite low winding resistance including the starting winding, so would approach 0 ohms. Your multimeter should be on the lowest resistance range when you check it. Just went out to the workshop and checked resistance on a 3 hp 220 VAC compressor motor, 1.4 ohms. On a 1.5 hp table saw motor, it is 1.5 ohms. You really can't tell much about the motor other than having continuity or not by measuring resistance. A single phase 220 VAC motor will run when wired across 2 phases of a 208 VAC 3 phase system. It is well within the voltage level tolerances. I have seen many 220 single phase connected to 208 (unit heater fans, pumps, etc.). However, that is not a concern here since you will not be connecting it to a 3 phase system. Just some added info for you to digest. Tom

Spar varnish is normally a very good varnish. Suitable for exteriors that are subject to some moisture and to sun. Tom

You got bad varnish. Varnish may have a strong chemical solvent smell, but not rotten. Needs to cure at 65 F or warmer. Tom

Or use wood bleach, or barkeeps friend, or oxalic acid (all the same stuff). A little stronger than lemon juice. I cleaned up an evil smell from some cheap leather with oxalic acid. Tom

What was the resistance (ohms) between the black and blue? I assume you had the power switch turned on? If so, the only choice is black and blue for 220 VAC. From the 3 phase circuit diagram, it appears the hydraulic pump runs continuously and that the push buttons (item 9) and possibly microswitch 8 on the handle activates the solenoid (10) to switch the hydraulic valve to provide force to actuate the clicker ram. Switch 8 is the end switch to stop the ram at end of stroke. On your home/shop wiring, the 3 conductors from the breaker panel are typically red, white and black plus bare ground. White is neutral and is not needed for 220 VAC. Red is 110, white is 0, black is 110. So the voltage between black and red is 220 VAC. Tom

This is only a shortcut link from your computer. Not the pdf. Please retry. Tom

Use with the matte side up. Pencil or pen works better on the matte side. Shiny side against the leather. Tracing or drafting velum works nice too. Got a part roll when they switched to plotters for drafting printouts. No cost was nice. Tom

The diagram on page 13 of the pdf is for a three phase motor. Item 1 is a manual switch. Item 2 is a thermal overload breaker. When you hook up a 3 phase motor, you hook each of the phase connections to the 3 phase supply. Then do a bump test to see if the motor rotation is correct. If it is not, then you reverse any 2 of the 3 connections to change the direction of rotation. You can prove the continuity with a multimeter set on resistance (ohms). Resistance will be less than 500 ohms. Turn switch 1 on. Test the resistance across the wires. Clip one lead from your multimeter to one of the wires and keep it on that wire. Test the resistance to the other 2 wires. If there is continuity in both of these tests, and the resistance values are relatively the same, you have a 3 phase motor. Tom

What is the info on the motor nameplate? Would help to know if it is three phase or not. Sounds like the cordset is using European wire colours. What kind of plug was on the end, or is it supposedly setup to be wired directly into a box? Tom

Bar C, you have a couple people interested in this equipment. See above posts. Tom

Look at Will Ghormley's website. http://www.willghormley-maker.com/MakingHOGRig.html Scroll way down til you get to his rust tank and read through it. Tom

Take a look at Ohio Travel Bag, called key plates https://ohiotravelbag.com/shop/search.aspx?term=key plate#f=&p=1&s= These are not removable, but are close to what you are looking for. I think the removable ones fell out of favour due to loosing keys when they loosen up a bit. Tom

Glovers needles are triangular point, harness needles are round point. The triangular shape has sharp edges and that is what is cutting your thread when doing saddle stitching with them. Get harness needles. Tom

Do a search here for rawhide mauls. There are a couple threads about making your own. You need to take the maul apart, figure out where and how to remove the nuts from the bolt. Then all you do is cut a stack of washers basically and put it back together. These other threads will give you more info. Tom

Newspaper ink smears and leaves marks on leather. Then you have to clean it off! Tom

What do you have? Tom

I've used pine, fir plywood, etc. Moisture is not going to change the shape/size all that much. Plywood might de-laminate over repeated usage. You don't need a lot of pressure, so that shouldn't be a problem. Leather does not normally need to be saturated with water. Wood with rough grain will emboss the leather surface, which you may or may not like. Clamping against a smooth laminate will keep the leather surface smooth. You can varnish or wax wood to reduce the amount of moisture it will absorb. You can also use high or low density polyethylene, like kitchen cutting boards. Or UHMW Polyethylene. You will still need some hand or power tools to cut and shape the material. Wood is easier to cut, carve and sand to the desired shape for molds. Handy hand tools would include a coping saw, hand saw, rasp, mallet and chisel, sandpaper, ... Tom

Reduce the size of your picture, then you should be able to post it. Lots of links here and elsewhere on the web about reducing your picture size. Search them out and give it a try. Tom

Their is someone in the Montana area the flies falcons and makes hoods. http://lchoods.weebly.com/about-us.html Tom