Northmount

It looks pretty good. You do some great work. Tom

I have just glued a patch on the inside for many tears. Use a similar leather so it has relatively the same flexibility, skive the edges of the patch a little, use a good grade of glue/cement. Where you have access to the back, I'd use contact cement. Tom

Works for small items. Have done 4" circle in 8/9 oz heavy temper leather, had to use 4 bites to make it work, plus some extra leverage. Tom

And they lose torque at low speeds, thus the need for speed reducer pulleys unless you are only dealing with thin soft leather. Tom

I would try laying the pieces out on a table, flat. Then try to arrange so they overlap and fill the area you need for your panel size. Trim the overlaps where needed, glue and stitch. May need to cut some pieces in half to fill voids on the edges. The pattern doesn't need to be repeatable, could be completely random. I think stitching them face to face and turning them face out would make the piece quite bulky and it may not lay flat. That's why I would do overlapping seams. Try a small panel and see if it works the way you want. Then let us know the best way you come up with. looking forward to seeing photos of the results, both as panels, and as a finished project. Good luck. Tom

If the photo is deleted from the hosting site, then you are left with a broken link. Also if someone closes, or re-organizes their hosting site, the photos are all gone from leatherworker.net. Some of the threads and posts become useless as there is no longer any illustrations. It is far better to re-size your photos to fit, so they will stay with your post and complement the text. Tom EDIT Feb 25 2023: This is an example from this thread of what happens to many 3rd party hosted photos. Post below has been severely edited to remove extraneous material.

CDSP IP address indicates he/she is in Brussels, Brussels Capital, 1012, Belgium A note to all members, especially new members: Please list your location. It helps get you better answers, especially for things that are local to you. You might also find someone who lives close to you that can help with one-on-one tutoring, etc. Maybe even a free coffee! Tom

Just really too nice! Tom

Vacuum cleaner motors may be much higher speed than what you want. They really wind up! Tom

As a moderator, I don't have the time to read every post that comes in. I do have a life beyond LW.net. Sometimes there may be 2 or 3 or more days between my appearance here, and I don't go back more than about a day to see if there is anything that needs fixed or commented. Moderators are volunteers, not paid full-time staff. You can "report" a post that needs attention by clicking on "report post" in the upper right of the post. Then it is flagged to all moderators and they will see it when they next login. Hope you have a better day today! Tom

You might need to remove this spacer and make your own if an 8-32 Chicago Screw is too large. You can see how long it needs to be and cut tubing to fit. I'm trying to remember if I used tubing. I may have used a hex nut as a spacer. Likely 1/4" NC. I know I started out trying to use a piece of tubing, but when you mentioned that the Chicago Screw won't fit the existing spacer, I doubt that it would fit 1/4" tubing either. Memory is less than perfect! Have to go check now to see. Will edit this after I check it out. Tom Edit: Okay, the shank of the 8-32 Chicago screw just nicely fits through a 1/4" NC hex nut. So I'm pretty sure that is what I used instead of a piece of tubing. You could pad that with an extra washer if you need more height, or use a stack of washers. Edited post above to replace 1/4" tube with a 1/4" NC Hex Nut.

Hope you are doing much better by now. I would really appreciate some written instructions and source for bladders. I think others here would like them as well. Let us know how you are doing. Tom

Cap the mask cartridges when not in use so the absorbing media is not used up by ambient air. Tom

Sorry I was so slow getting back to you this week. Too many things got in the way. See sketch in attached 3-ring binder clip.pdf and example hardware photos. You will have to play with dimensions to suit your clip. The spacer is a piece of 1/4" NC Hex Nut. If you are removing a binder clip from an existing binder, drill the smallest hole that will remove the rivet. Then you may be able to save any spacer they have used. I didn't realize there was a spacer there so had destroyed it! 3-ring binder clip.pdf

Three posts! Please all, hit submit only once, wait for the server to respond. It gets busy at times because we have so many active members, which is really great. Slow connections may also impact how long it takes to get a response. Tom

I'll put together a little sketch early next week. Tom

I have a 1 ton arbour press, same design. Used it to cut a bunch of 4" (100 mm) circles. I slid a 3' length of 3/4" pipe over the handle to make it easier to pull down. Rear of press was clamped to a solid bench. Had no problems. Tom

deleted your duplicated posts

Photos so we can see? Grey or bluish? If tends toward blue, then there is some iron contamination in the leather or due to a rack it was laid on. You can bleach out with oxalic acid. The colour is due to the same reaction as vinegaroon process. Tom

From the IP address, he appears to be in the Arcadia, California, 91006 area. Tom

3/4 oz and thinner are thin. Tom

Try this link Ohio Travel Bag. https://ohiotravelbag.com/shop/search.aspx?term=key plate#f=&p=1&s= Tom

Many will say 50%. Thinner leather may not be able to go that deep. You have to test, trial and error to get the feel and look that you like the best and hopefully your client likes too. Tom

Definitely iron contamination. Keep all iron fillings, etc. out of your leatherwork area. Oxalic acid will remove the spots. There are a number of threads about these spots if you want to search out more information. I would recommend that you be careful trying to bleach out small spots as that spot may now become lighter than the rest of the piece you are working with. I would do a quick bleach of the whole surface to try to maintain consistent colour across the item. Tom

If you warm it up, does the white residue work back in? It would likely be the fat. Need to warm it up and buff the extra back off. Maybe 2 or 3 times. Tom