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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. You can also drill and tap the correct thread size in the wood, and avoid having to epoxy it. Good wood threads very nicely. Makes it removable if you want. Tom
  2. http://isthiswebsiteworking.com/campbell-randall.com indicates the site is currently down. Registration is still valid into 2018. Web address is http://www.campbell-randall.com/ Tom
  3. Tandy's leathercraft library has some patterns with holly, etc. Some free designed for corners that you could modify easily. Tom
  4. And when the image is moved, deleted, or permissions change, then all you have left in the post is the text and a bunch of error messages. There are quite a number of "broken" photos on this site for these reasons. I recommend that users resize photos to fit the size constraints of the forum. 800x600 pixel resolution is adequate and allows you to load many photos. It also helps those that are on limited bandwidth internet connections, out in the fringes, to view the photos without waiting 2 hours! And yes, we are interested in following your journey. Thanks for posting. Tom
  5. Hey Chancey77, great to see you back! Tom
  6. Keep the grain side out of daylight. Exposed areas will darken. Tom
  7. Techsew in Montreal, @Techsew Ron is a member here and has a banner ad at the top of the page. Each time you refresh, new ads will be displayed. Another member @catskin is in Saskatoon and may be able to direct you to someone closer. According to the IP address, he/she is in Swift Current Saskatchewan. Tom
  8. Use respirators with cartridges designed for the stuff you want to filter out. Some are listed as being for organics. Cap the cartridges when not in use to extend their life. If you can smell the stuff you are using through the cartridge, it's past time to replace it. Another option is to use a hood with a fresh air supply. For really nasty stuff and for dusty applications, I use a Triton hood like the photo, but hooked up to the exhaust of an old stick vacuum located outside. There are several manufactures of similar face shields and hoods. Your shop still needs to be ventilated to remove that noxious stuff. Tom
  9. See attached file Tom Making a saddle.pdf
  10. Roy Davis, Please read and abide by the market place rules, http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom
  11. Moved to used sewing machines Tom
  12. Add some photos please. Tom
  13. Do you realize the time zone difference? Fellow needs to sleep sometime. 3PM here, roughly 11PM there. Tom
  14. Moved it to leather machinery / clickers Tom
  15. djmc5678's IP address resolves to this location if it helps any: softbank060091103200.bbtec.net Nishinomiya, Hyōgo, 662-0933, Japan Tom
  16. Take a look at http://www.leightons.ca/used-landis-30.html You will have to email them for a price. Tom
  17. Fixed the link in the original post. Tom
  18. Just using the end of the ram. A plate as you have shown would help as long as the size of die is not too large. You could move up to a 3 ton arbor press if you want more punching power. Tom
  19. Instructions and foils to use are fairly common to most hot foil presses. There are a number of videos on YouTube for different manufacturers. They all have some useful details if your are patient enough to wade through them. Tom
  20. Saddle stitch or machine stitch. Tom
  21. It looks pretty good. You do some great work. Tom
  22. I have just glued a patch on the inside for many tears. Use a similar leather so it has relatively the same flexibility, skive the edges of the patch a little, use a good grade of glue/cement. Where you have access to the back, I'd use contact cement. Tom
  23. Works for small items. Have done 4" circle in 8/9 oz heavy temper leather, had to use 4 bites to make it work, plus some extra leverage. Tom
  24. And they lose torque at low speeds, thus the need for speed reducer pulleys unless you are only dealing with thin soft leather. Tom
  25. I would try laying the pieces out on a table, flat. Then try to arrange so they overlap and fill the area you need for your panel size. Trim the overlaps where needed, glue and stitch. May need to cut some pieces in half to fill voids on the edges. The pattern doesn't need to be repeatable, could be completely random. I think stitching them face to face and turning them face out would make the piece quite bulky and it may not lay flat. That's why I would do overlapping seams. Try a small panel and see if it works the way you want. Then let us know the best way you come up with. looking forward to seeing photos of the results, both as panels, and as a finished project. Good luck. Tom
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