Northmount

Take my pattern above. Shorten the neck by about a quarter inch, and cut up the fold line from the bottom to about equal with the screw holes and you should have what you need. The loop was a little too long, so that is why you need to reduce the length of the neck a little. I'm tied up on other stuff, else would make a new pattern along with a photo example. Tom

And your email address is ....

Check the linkage to the control arm first. Has it slipped or been been bent? Is the control arm seized up? Tom

You have a couple people interested, See above posts. Tom

Here is one option. The main part is folded rather than forming a Y. If you are using heavier weight leather like about 8 oz or so, gouge the inside to get a cleaner sharper fold. Light leather like 2-3 oz does not make a nice loop. Print the pattern, fold in half on the centre line and cut so you have a mirror image of the one side. This was traced from a trial run 8 oz leather, wet molded to form it. So some of it stretches a little, so the pattern is not symmetrical. You will have to adjust the cut between the top ears to fit, so give yourself a little extra leeway. Same for the size of the ears. Large Chicago screw or concho needs larger ears. You could experiment with main body so there is relatively no fold, and both edges would then look similar instead of one folded, and one not. Have fun Tom KeyFob2.pdf

You should add your location to your profile so people in your general area can provide you better input about what is available near you. Tom

Try this Google search "site:leatherworker.net europe clicker die" The following are just 2 of the hits the search found. site:leatherworker.net limits the search to this site. Faster and better search than the builtin search function. Tom

Ffernando01 is a guest and can't access the PM function as a guest. Give him/her a phone call. Tom

Only works on veg tan, needs tannic acid to work. Maybe you could soak it in tea, then try. Tom

Guests do not have access to PMs. Tom

A lot depends on what portion of leather crafting/working you want to teach. Just a couple ideas to branch off from. One set of kit and instructions for cutting, assembly and saddle stitching. Another for tooling/stamping Another for lacing, etc. Tom

Merged both threads Tom

Post your location so we know what part of the world you live in. Might be helpful in getting you some responses from your general local. Tom

NydyaSabreen - see above post. Tom

According to the IP address, the OP is located Westville, New Jersey

You have several people interested in your machine. See above posts. Please update status, sold or still for sale? Tom

TZHunter is trying to contact you. See above post. Tom

You have someone interested in your machine. See post above. Tom

Please read http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

Please read this http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/ Tom

There is another thread I read here recently about sharpening. The poster reduces the pressure on the stone as he is sharpening rather than moving up to finer and finer grits. Makes sense that your won't scratch as deep with less pressure against the stone. I use some cheap diamond sharpening plates. They never list the grit size, just coarse, medium and extra fine. Once the blade is shaped and the deep machine marks are scrubbed off, should never need to go back to the coarse stone to sharpen. After sharpening, I go through 2 levels of abrasive stropping. If stropped regularly, you should rarely need to go back to even the extra fine stone. Only if the knife is abused, should you need to go back to a stone to repair damage to the edge and faces. Tom

Moved your post to "How do I do that". Help wanted is like the newspaper classified ads, people looking for work, or looking to hire. To glue leather to a plastic surface, the shiny plastic needs to be abraded to give the glue/cement a "tooth" to hang on to. Good grades of contact cement do well when properly applied. Follow the directions, don't stick together while wet. There are a number of threads about proper use of contact cement. Also a couple threads about building rope cans. Try a search for more information. Tom

The hotter you turn the juice up, the hotter the handle gets. I would suspect that there is a big difference in how various pieces of leather respond. Higher moisture content is going to be harder to burn, and will coat your tip with chemicals boiling off the leather. I burned some initials into alum tanned cowhide some time back. I was using the rough out, suede side. A test left ash in the suede around the initials and would make a smudgy mess. So I tried another test piece with an acrylic finish diluted and rubbed into the suede. Burned nice and didn't leave messy ash behind. Must have stayed imbedded in the acrylic. It burned nicely, no problems with the tip. It had been left to dry for several hours before burning. So I would say use dry leather, lowest moisture content to avoid the gunk accumulating so quickly on the tip and keep the temperature down. Build up the density with more passes or shading rather than going hotter. Hotter sticks to the leather easier, making a more bumpy appearance. You might need to dry some of your leather with a hot box. Oil it afterwards to replace oils and moisture lost in drying. Tom

My iPad has gotten real slow too. The OS upgrades for the older iPads really have slowed it down. Often takes up to 10 seconds to respond to a touch or tap. Anyhow, I won't be buying another iPad or any Apple product. Tom

Nice job. Now let's see your new "master" wearing it! Tom