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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Grain side of leather is the nice side, show side, hair side. Opposite is the flesh side, originally against the meat and fat. Tom
  2. OP appears to be from Brooklyn New York according to the IP address. Tom
  3. Do a search here. 30 results for paisley, patterns to examples. Tom
  4. You can cut a slot in the front of the presser foot, round off the edges and polish a bit. Easy fix. Tom
  5. Merged your posts and deleted redundant multiple posts. Please allow time for the server to respond when posting. The server may be very busy for a moment at times, or you may be on a slow network connection. So after hitting post, relax for a minute! Tom
  6. A photo would provide a lot of help with identifying what this machine might be based on. Front, rear, left end, close up of the needle and presser feet and feed dogs, right end, badges, numbers, underside, bobbin. Tom
  7. Was this from a starter set from Tandy? If so, they are lower quality material than their regular line. Tandy will replace stamps that bend or fall apart or easily damaged through normal use. They replace starter kit stamps with their regular line according to other posts on the forum. Take it back. Tom
  8. Copper rivets, wire, etc. sizes are defined as AWG, American Wire Gauge. There is more info than you ever want to know here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge. Scroll down and you will find a table cross referencing # and diameters. I tend to use #9 for heavy stuff, #12, and rarely #14. You can look up availability at your local Tandy Leather I you are so inclined. Nice to be able to pick it up today instead of waiting several days for shipment. Also make sure you know how to install the rivets. My first attempt was a disaster! So practice on a couple pieces of scrap first. Also do a search here and you will find lots of suggestions. The minimum tools are a punch, an angle cutters (side cutters or nippers), an anvil or other hard solid surface, and a ball peen hammer. Not recommended to use your granite or marble slab as an anvil. Tom
  9. Includes a hand pump. Notice it is a Canadian company, located in the Toronto area. Price I see is $70 Can. So with the exchange rate, In US$ will be around 30% less. Tom
  10. Moved to Leather Sewing Machines.
  11. Original link fixed. For as long as the page stays active! Tom
  12. Seems no response so I am locking the thread and moving it to Old/Sold. Tom
  13. Neatsfoot oil darkens leather. Don't expect it to return to its original colour. As it is absorbed, it might lighten some. Also, note that sunlight naturally darkens leather. Many craftsmen lightly oil the leather and let it sit in the sun for a time to produce a naturally darkened (sun tanned) leather. Tom
  14. Thanks for forwarding, Rawdata, here it is. Tom Claes_Elastik_I_u_III Handleiding.pdf
  15. You state it is 220 single phase, then go on about it being 3 phase, which is it really? And if it is 3 phase, replace the motor and do some rewiring of the control circuits. Can still use the 3 phase contactor on single phase 220. Tom
  16. Take the belt off and turn it over by hand first to make sure nothing got loosened up and out of place. Then put the belt on and go for it. Remember to hold both threads for a couple stitches when you start sewing. Always have leather or something under the feet before you run it with it threaded. Tom
  17. Stamps that have been dipped in the plating process loose their sharpness. Look at the face of each stamp before you buy. Even out of the same batch, you will find some with much more crisp detail than others. This is fine when you are in a store, but more difficult if buying online or by mail order. For more professional work, you may want to upgrade your stamps replacing the poorer quality ones, one at a time. There are lots of good tool makers out there. Tom
  18. Rubber mallets do not work for striking stamps. Also, case your leather, else it won't make much of an impression. The larger the stamp, the more force/impact is required to make an impression. Makers mark stamps are large enough that they tend to bounce when you are pounding on them, and make shadow impressions. Use of a deadblow hammer helps to avoid the shadow impressions. If you need to strike again, carefully re-seat the stamp in the first impression to avoid shadow impressions. Overall dye will tend to hide your mark. An antique will help it stand out. A hot enough stamp and all you have to do is press it against the leather to burn in its impression. Depending on the size of the stamp, it may take several minutes to heat up hot enough to burn into the leather. Tom
  19. Referring to the manual, the potentiometer is item 7. It is wired in series with the end switch item 8. So is used according to page 2 to make small adjustments in the cutting depth. It is not part of the power cord circuit. The nameplate item 1 on page 2 shows the voltage the machine was designed and setup for. I assume this is the tag you were identifying in your previous posts about the voltage. Page 2 shows a box on the right near the rear. This appears to be the control box and I assume is where your red and black buttons are. It would appear that there is an electromagnetic switch (relay) that starts and stops the motor. Red is likely the on push button. When it is pressed, it applies control power to the mag switch, closing the circuit for the motor, and seals itself in to keep the motor running. The black switch breaks the control circuit opening the motor circuit. The control power appears to be 24 VAC, supplied by a control power transformer. So without any mains power being supplied, there is no connection to the motor. The continuity you are measuring is only the primary circuit of the control power transformer. I would recommend that you get a qualified electrician to test and install your wiring as it is beyond your scope of experience and knowledge. And as said before, 220 is single phase. 208 is three phase. Some photos would go a long ways toward identifying the various switches, parts and locations. Tom
  20. Where the outside plate says 220, I would say it is very likely single phase. If it said 208, then I would say it is 3 phase. These are standardized descriptions. For the equipment to be sold in North America, it had to meet these standards. A 220 VAC motor will have quite low winding resistance including the starting winding, so would approach 0 ohms. Your multimeter should be on the lowest resistance range when you check it. Just went out to the workshop and checked resistance on a 3 hp 220 VAC compressor motor, 1.4 ohms. On a 1.5 hp table saw motor, it is 1.5 ohms. You really can't tell much about the motor other than having continuity or not by measuring resistance. A single phase 220 VAC motor will run when wired across 2 phases of a 208 VAC 3 phase system. It is well within the voltage level tolerances. I have seen many 220 single phase connected to 208 (unit heater fans, pumps, etc.). However, that is not a concern here since you will not be connecting it to a 3 phase system. Just some added info for you to digest. Tom
  21. Spar varnish is normally a very good varnish. Suitable for exteriors that are subject to some moisture and to sun. Tom
  22. You got bad varnish. Varnish may have a strong chemical solvent smell, but not rotten. Needs to cure at 65 F or warmer. Tom
  23. Or use wood bleach, or barkeeps friend, or oxalic acid (all the same stuff). A little stronger than lemon juice. I cleaned up an evil smell from some cheap leather with oxalic acid. Tom
  24. What was the resistance (ohms) between the black and blue? I assume you had the power switch turned on? If so, the only choice is black and blue for 220 VAC. From the 3 phase circuit diagram, it appears the hydraulic pump runs continuously and that the push buttons (item 9) and possibly microswitch 8 on the handle activates the solenoid (10) to switch the hydraulic valve to provide force to actuate the clicker ram. Switch 8 is the end switch to stop the ram at end of stroke. On your home/shop wiring, the 3 conductors from the breaker panel are typically red, white and black plus bare ground. White is neutral and is not needed for 220 VAC. Red is 110, white is 0, black is 110. So the voltage between black and red is 220 VAC. Tom
  25. This is only a shortcut link from your computer. Not the pdf. Please retry. Tom
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