Northmount

They are licensed to the party that paid for and signed an agreement. Commercial usage by others that are not party to this agreement is in contravention of the registered trademark and copyright laws. In other words, you could be sued. Great find for collector items. CTG

Must be a 10 point one, just like metric stars!

I didn't have to use Google, but isn't Google just great for finding many of the details we need. Even finds LW!

Remember that snowflakes have 6 points. Not 8 as you see in many commercial graphics. So simply folding a square of paper in half 3 times won't work for your basic pattern. Fold in half, then fold in thirds to get your 6 points, or use a protractor, 60 degrees. CTG

You may be able to remove the lacing, re-align the edges starting in the middle, counting holes like others have mentioned. Then see how you can finish off the spare holes at the end. You may be able to punch a couple additional holes in the side where you need them. CTG

Try letting it dry naturally, make sure there is good air circulation on both sides. I had forgotten to put the makers stamp on an item, remembered after putting neatlac on. Had not assembled it yet so dampened the flesh side to case it. Let it soak through so would have roughly the right water content, then stamped it. Let it air dry for a couple days and no stain or blotch. Maybe just lucky, but gradual air drying might work for you, even with the stiffener being wet. Good luck. Hope it does well for you. CTG

If tooling (stamping) on your lap is difficult due to how low the work surface is, try placing the slab on 2 to 4" of high density foam like for chair cushions on top a table or desk to get some height back. CTG

Looks like wood. That's really great. CTG

I love your work! Really outstanding. CTG

Chicago screws, Tandy has them CTG

Are either of the holes threaded for a screw? If so, there should have been at least one small pointed 'grub' screw. If no holes threaded, I'd look look at using epoxy on the flesh side. Test on a scrap to see if the epoxy bleeds any color through to the grain side. Anyone else with a solution? CTG

Great roses. I like how you have rounded the petals edges, makes them look a lot more realistic. CTG

Or buy a sheet metal brake and modify it to suit. That light duty one is only about $50. Probably available at Harbor Freight too for a US source.

Looks much like a metal brake for bending sheetmetal metal brake CTG

Here's a link to Loctite Application Guide to help make sure you pick the properties you want. CTG

There are different grades of loctite. Use one that will let you remove the screw later without twisting it off or having to heat it up. You want just enough additional holding power to keep it from vibrating loose, not a permanent bond.

Don't take me wrong, but I think sewing with 2 arms and one leg is a lot easier than with 3 arms and one leg. Since you are in eastern Canada, talk to Ron at raphaelsewing.com in Montreal. I purchased a Techsew 2700, delivered just the week before Christmas. Very happy with it. There are 2 pedals, one for speed (with a servo motor) and one for the presser foot. I only use one at a time so I don't get crossed up. So you might equate it to the brake and gas pedal for a car. Shouldn't have one foot on each at the same time, so one leg is fine. You can dial the servo motor down to its lowest speed so it will just about crawl. Ron could put an additional speed reducer pulley on it for you it you really figure you need it. Talk to hime. The head itself is around a 100 lbs. I managed it myself and with the medical problems I have had the past few years, I can't lift and do the physical work I used to. I'm sure someone would help you with the assembly, and if it needed to go back for any service or adjustment, it wouldn't be too difficult to get it back into a box and ship it in. But I don't see you needing to do that. Ron can help talk you through anything if you need it. I haven't had to ask for any support on this one yet, and don't expect to. The machine was all setup/adjusted correctly when delivered. I have a little experience with regular seamstress type flat bed Singers (including an industrial model U20-33 that I put a smaller pulley on the constant speed motor so I can use it with light leather like wallet interiors), so at least have a little idea of simple adjustments like with tension. Used to use an old Singer treadle machine when I was a kid. I think with the Boss, you would have more trouble trying to stay balanced and comfortably seated while guiding the leather and pulling the lever, especially if you are dealing with thick leather. Good luck with what ever you decide to choose, but I'd go for a servo motor machine any day versus the Boss. C Tom G PS Set the table height down to just nicely clear your knee before you put the head on the table. I found the inital table height was too high for me and was bothering my shoulders.

If your leather across the eyepiece is stiff, and the lenses are usually recessed (set back in the retaining ring), there should be little chance of the leather touching the lens. But definitely keep leather off the lens coating. Most leathers likely have some chemicals left in them from tanning (else they would be tough dried out like rawhide), and you don't know how they will react with the lens coating. Note a lot of lenses are being produced from plastic now. They can just stamp them out in high volume at low cost. Even plastic lenses for regular eyeglasses are stamped out instead of ground. The only grinding is to fit the frames. So now there is a combination of plastic plus lens coatings to improve the refractive index.

You could try wet forming too. Use dowelling and a hole drilled in a block. If you can't find right size dowel (or price), carve or turn your own dowel.

Use 600 to 800 pixels wide.

Take a look at some of the steering wheel cover kits for some ideas. Your local auto store should have them. They wrap a spiral strip Like mrdabeetle suggests.

Use wax paper or plastic wrap (or something of that nature) to keep any contaminates in the mold away from the leather. Also make sure you don't contaminate the leather with anything before molding it. (Like oils or such from the object you are fitting it to as you do your layout.) It kind of looks like it didn't dry evenly. Did the pouch dry while in the mold or was it removed from the mold to dry? It might make a difference if part of the leather can't dry at the same time as the rest.

It really depends on how tight the fold is. On a relaxed curve like the flap of a purse, it doesn't matter as much. A tight fold on a billfold that is used every day will have problems show up on the fold before it does other places. If you can avoid running the pattern (tooling) across the fold line, the product will last much longer and maintain a better look. The cutting and tooling weakens the leather, the fold distorts the tooling, etc. The fold will crack somewhat long before you see any cracking on the rest of the item. The minute cracks will let in dirt, moisture, etc. hastening the deterioration. The fold receives more bumps and wear and tear so anything you can do to protect it will help keep it nice. Not tooling the fold protects it. Oiling lightly and restoring the finish occasionally will help it last longer, same as all leather. If the item is not going to see daily usage, but sit on display or in a drawer most of the time, then it really doesn't matter. Some patterns don't give you a nice looking natural break for the fold, so if you are using that pattern, you are stuck with it. See what your customer wants. Just advise him that it will show some distortion of the tooling, and will show wear earlier than the rest of the item.

Whether you add pigment or not, this will turn your veg tan leather black. Iron plus tannin turns black. See many other posts on vinegaroon.

A creaser might be what you are looking for.