Northmount

General comment for any machine: Check the bobbin is threaded correctly and seated correctly. If that is all right, then reduce the bobbin tension. There are several threads here about how to set the bobbin tension. When you get the bobbin tension down, you can reduce the top tension. Tom

See http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/6015-01.aspx Includes several patterns and types. Once you get what you want working, ask blackriver laser to make a template set based on your drawings and spec. Tom

There's an old saying ... Great minds think alike, but fools seldom differ! I'd have to say we have great minds. Hard to change schedule, we're in the same timezone, and not that far apart. Tom

Different spots, different conchos, different stamps, different order, your choice of colours. Putting stuff on a belt or collar is nothing new. Whether you use hearts, butterflies or elephants, have at it and arrange things the way that suits your mood. Now if you copied the exact layouts, colours, etc., then you would be copying what they have done. And yes, some of your conchos, spots, Tandy 3D stamps may be the same as some of theirs, but it is your arrangement and interpretation. What they have done is not new or completely unique. It's done all over the place. If you copied Lightingale's unique pattern, that would be infringing on her art and expression. There is a difference. Tom

Thank you for posting it. Tom

One use for some wood carving tools is to use a wide gouge to cut nice round inside or outside corners. Straight chisels also for cutting slits. Tom

Yes, glue it together first. Tom

To get greater depth of field (in focus from the front edge to the back edge) you need to use a smaller lens apeture (f/22 for example) and a slow shutter speed, maybe 1/8 second, all depending on your lighting. Bracket you shots with longer and shorter exposure times so you can pick the best exposure. After some practise with the same setup, you will not need to bracket with as many shots and of course will save a little time. Here are a few links that you may find useful. There are many places on the web with great information. Aperture http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture Seamless background product shots http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-create-simple-seamless-background-product-shots Inexpensive Light Tent http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent Seamless White Background http://digital-photography-school.com/diy-seamless-white-background-for-product-shots Get your White Balance Correct http://digital-photography-school.com/get-your-white-balance-right-in-seconds-using-grey-card You can build a portable light tent out of some tubing and a flat white bed sheet. You can build it to any size needed for your products. For starters, build something that will fit on your table top. It is much easier to work around than crawling around on the floor. Tripods for camera and lights make it easier to arrange and setup. A boom type tripod is handy for your camera so you can position it above the product if you want to. Photography can be nearly as addictive as leatherwork, so watch out. You may have two addictions to deal with now! Tom

A tent does make a lot of difference. I can see your fluorescent tube reflected in the snaps. Include a piece of white paper in the edge of your photo. Then use it as noted above to set what "white" should be. There is another setting in PS under color. It is to remove any colourcast due to lighting, reflections, etc. when removing colourcast, sample something that should have "no color". Either white, grey, or black. Between the two types of settings, you should be able to come closer with matching your colors. There is also a selection for color correction. Sometimes auto works fine, but some manual adjustments may be required. See if your camera has a setting for manual white balance. If so, use it to get correction started properly in your camera. If you always use same light, same distance, same f-stop, same shutter speed, you should get same color rendition. Auto isn't always your best friend. Tom

The blade needs sharpened, even though new. The typical new blade, especially Tandy, needs a lot of work. There are other threads about sharpening swivel knives. Do a quick search and you should be able to find them. Tom

Very nice! Tom

Lay the collar out over a 4x4 or round post so you can keep the curve while you are punching your holes. I would also glue the 2 straps together before punching and stitching. Keep your curve while gluing it up. It is very nice to be able to keep the curve while you are working on it. Makes a more professional looking piece. Tom

I ocassionally buy kits to get a pattern for cutting out more of the same style. Also if the sale price is really good, and sometimes when there is a great interior or one I want to copy. I rarely buy any of the pre-punched kits cause I don't like round holes for my lacing, or big round holes for sewing. Cost wise, it's usually better to buy some leather and cut and assemble your own stuff. You can decide on the quality of the leather and cut around defects. Tom

Somebody here used rawhide dog chews as a source for rawhide for a maul he was making. Soak and pull, stretch out, nail down and dry flat. You might be able to find his post if you do some searching here. Tom

The fake stuff will melt if you hold a small flame against it. If the middle of the coloured leather looks blue or grey, it is likely chrome tanned. You can test casing and stamping to see if it willc ase, and it it will burnish and retain the samping. That will help tell you if it is veg tanned. Tom

Several grades of loctite. Some are quite permanent, others will let you unscrew the nut if needed, but won't work its way off by itself. In a pinch, fingernail polish or other plastic glues work too, but loctite is best. Tom

Adding some elbow grease will get more shine. Take a nice soft cotton cloth (old tee-shirt) and buff it lots. That will add some shine, but still may not match the original. If you look at the original cushions, you will see some difference between where clothes have "buffed" the surface, versus the areas not touched. Hopefully your new cushion will come close to the un-touched areas of the old cushions. Tom

I had to do a little fix on an item that was already finished. I dampened the leather from the back and left it sit for a while until I could see moisture showing through, left it dry for a while, then stamped it. Worked a lot better than I thought it would. Take your time, don't saturate the leather. Tom

Supporting a 1" or there abouts thick piece of granite, marble or quartz at only the 4 corners will eventually result in a crack and breaking the piece. So I would use the piece of carpet idea. Stone masons mark a line by chiseling lightly across the surface where they want to "cut", then rap the mark sharply several times along the mark. And it falls apart. Sometimes internal cracks cause it to break where not wanted. So hidden internal cracks in an unsupported area of a thin slab will eventually break. The 3 or 4 inch thick stuff will take a lot of pounding with no problems. Tom

Order a 1 ton arbor press from Busybee. Closest store to you is Ottawa, but you can order online. http://www.busybeetools.com/categories/Metalworking/Arbor-Press/ Using a maul (or mallet) on large stamps results in a bounce that gives double impressions. You can get a dead blow hammer that doesn't bounce. Check Busybee or other tool stores near you. Tom

See what your seller recommends, in case any warranty issues come up. Otherwise, Fiebing's 4 Way Care Leather Conditioner. May darken light colours. Use sparingly and follow the directions. Tom

And black speckles are not due to the mop n glow. It is iron and tannic acid in the leather that produces the black specks. It can be bleached out with oxalic acid or even lemon juice. Tom

Maybe a description of the specific problem you are having might help. Is it the gradient in the text that is bothering you? For it, I would suggest masking it off and using an airbrush. Tom

Thin leather doesn't need to case as long as thicker leather. It dries out faster too, so may need additional misting before you finish. If the leather isn't burnishing (turning darker) when you stamp it, needs more moisture. Some will wipe with a wet, not drippy, sponge to add more moisture, then wait for the colour to return to near the same as it was before wetting or casing it. Tom

Great job. Keep tapping! Tom