Northmount

There was something rattling around in the back of my mind ... finally realized what it was. Johnny Cash, Ring of Fire. Now you really have to do it! Tom

Why not flames in circles? Tom

Here is a link to some ideas. There are commercial products out there to do the job. Some are listed in the link. http://lifehacker.com/5897807/how-to-remove-rust-from-old-tools You can find may more ideas and methods using Google. You can even use electrolysis to reverse the action of the rust. Except for electrolysis, I would stay away from water. That's what causes the rust to start with. Be wary of any method that involves a lot of scratching like wire brush, emery paper etc. It depends where it is on the tool. Adding scratches to the face of a stamp, or abrading the pattern is not something you want to do. Brass brushes generally won't damage steel surfaces since the brass is soft. Be cautious of strong acids and other chemicals. With all the different rust removal methods out there, think about what the results are that you want, use some common sense, and you should be able to reclaim these tools without causing further problems. Tom

Looks really great! How does the tab fit in? Another picture might help me see how you fit the tab to close it. Thanks Tom

I have to agree. Very inspiring. Now to try something similar here! Tom

You don't want to use any dye that includes red. Brown includes red. To get a lighter colour, you have to bleach colour out of it. Tom

Looking good. If you shorten the liner a little more, it won't bunch up as much in the middle when folded. But the downside of that is it won't lay flat when open. At a guess, I'd take another 1/8" to 1/4" off the length of the liner. Since this is only from a photo, it's hard to tell how much it has bunched up, but you can tell better than I if you need to make any change. You do great work. Tom

Here are a few links that may help you with depth of field. Mostly, get more light on the subject if you can, but there is more to it that can be done. http://digital-photography-school.com/aperture http://digital-photography-school.com/a-deeper-look-into-depth-of-field http://digital-photography-school.com/overcoming-depth-of-field-problems-in-portraits Good luck on saddle #2. Tom

Try this http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/9132-01.aspx has a backing, somewhat resembles leather, but the backing helps with the fraying problem. They have black and brown. Tom

Great job. I like old furniture. It's a shame to see it get trashed. This is the way to go! Tom

Long way from North Dakota, so probably not the same clan. Tom

A little more information could be of help. What part of the world do you live in, or where the purse was purchased, down to at least the city and state? How long has it been in your possession, something to help with possibly determining a rough age or time period? Better photos would help too. Try about 800 pixels wide so we can see some detail. Adjust the contrast and mid tones to improve what we can see. I can find some info on Harkness, but won't spend the time if the locations don't compare. My grandmother was a Harkness. I think I can contact some of her family's descendants if the location fits. Tom

#9 wire works better for your pickup. A little harder to twist up tight, but a fencing pliers usually does the job. Lasts a lot longer on country roads and trails! Tom

Thanks Bob. Great story. Tom

Take a look at this thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43081&st=0 There are some other threads here to with good information. Use search. Tom

Lucky guy, to get Ann Sthoman's guidance. And, from a guy that can only wish to be able to make a saddle, you have done a great job. Also great mentoring comments to others. Tom

Yellow woodworking glue dries hard, not flexible. So when you bend the leather items glued with it, you will hear the glue cracking. White glue dries flexible. So will hold better where you expect flexing to take place. Woodworkers don't normally need their items to flex. Tom

Fantastic job. I can only wish to do that someday. For the photo #4, to get the whole photo in focus, you need to increase the depth of field by using smaller lens opening near f16 and longer exposure. The the horn and cantle can both be in focus. Tom

I assume you are pulling on the bottom thread and it pulls out easily. That would mean that the top tension needs to be increased to pull the bottom thread halfway up into the leather. The "knot" should be half way through the leather. Generally leave the bobbin tension alone. There are numerous threads here about adjusting tension, and if needed, how to adjust the bobbin tension. Do a search for these threads. You can pick up a lot of good info. Most sewing machine manuals (even domestic home machines) show what a lock-stitch is supposed to look like and how to adjust the tension. Make sure the top thread is threaded correctly for your machine. It seems to be a very common problem when people get a new machine, especially if they have little machine experience. Tom

Fantastic. Truly great work. Something many of us can only aspire to. And to a great cause. Tom

Great dye job! Tom

Very good job overall. Great dye work too! Truck looks just like it should. Tom

Very nice job. Quite challenging. Do you have a pattern and willing to share it? Or do up a tutorial? I'm sure there are a number of people here that would be up to the challenge. I had a look around and there are a few YouTube videos out there. Will have to watch a couple closely to see what I can pick up. Tom

Great start. Can't wait to see it finished. Tom

Also depends on the maximum size thread your bobbin will take. Tom