Northmount

This should be a great help, especially to those new to making wallets. Thanks. Tom

Have used mop & glo on the edges. Had no problems. I would be careful of how waxy the burnished edge is as most finishes don't like to stick to wax. Tom

When you want to add to and edit this post, PM me with the additions and I can put them into the original post, or we can put the info into PDF files and attach new updates for each section. PDFs might be the best route to go. Anyhow, just let me know which way you want to go and I can help with edits. Tom

Three options 1. Put a smaller pulley on the motor, you may be able to get down to 1.75" 2. Get a servo motor with gear reducer built in, SewPro from Toledo Industrial, see banner ads at the top 3. Install a pulley speed reducer set There are numerous threads here about these options. Do a search for them. Most motors lose torque when slowed down, so you need to do one or more of the above. Tom

Something like this Conway buckle Tom

Pretty fancy. Nicely done. Tom

Sorry I had stamps on my mind instead of dies. There are mallet dies available. I've seen a few posts about them here. If you do a search, you will find them. They are of heavier construction. Tom

A dead blow hammer works better than a mallet, there is no (or less) bounce so you don't get a small shadow impression as well. With a dead blow hammer, if you didn't hit hard enough the first time, you can usually reposition the stamp by feeling where the stamp settles into the impression, then hit it again. If one side is light, you are tilting your stamp. So tilt it the other way and hit it again. Warning, on thin leather, you can cut right through the leather if you hit it too hard or too may times. Do some trial runs on scrap so you can see what it does. Also do a search for arbor presses here. There are lots of threads and good info. Tom

When you bring up the new content page, check the settings on the left side. Check off "forums" and the time period you want. If that doesn't work for you, try this link and see if it works. new content link Tom

Cut some scrap and try it to see if you can get it to behave the way you want it to. Also note that the stiffer the leather (hard temper), the more wrinkles you will get. Softer stretchier leather will fold easier with fewer wrinkles. Tom

Only cut grooves where you want it to fold. Tom

I also find that if I dampen the leather just a little, it tends to reduce the wicking beyond where you want it to stop. Tom

Try to get a thinner piece for the inside. The cover won't lay flat, but will stretch over time and be easier to lay flat. And yes, the inside radius is always shorter on a fold. That is why you see the puckering if it was done totally flat. Try a sample with a fairly wide groove in the flesh side of the cover. Start gluing from the spine and work your way out. Trim the excess after gluing. Tom

Make sure it is properly cased, too wet will do what your bottom line did, especially if you rest your hand on it like Tree Reaper says. Tom

Mop & Glo Triple Action, the UPC is 59631 38032, comes in a blue bottle. Tom

Use thin material, like pigskin, or other choices you have available for the lining in the spine (rings) area. Glue it down solidly. It will still pucker a little. Another option is to groove the spine on the inside where you want it to fold. And again use thin leather for the lining. Make sure you get your glue down into the grooves and use a boning tool or similar to work the lining leather down into the groove. You will have a sharper fold, and less noticeable puckering inside. While gluing, in both cases, fold the cover about half way closed and let the glue set before opening or closing the cover. Yet another option is to use lighter weight leather for both the inside and outside, with a stiffener, like cardboard, between the two. Need the stiffener cut in three pieces, two for the front and back (same size) and one piece for the spine. Leave about 1/4" or more space at the folds. Look at the typical vinyl covered loose leaf binder as an example. Pull an old one apart, might even be able to use the board as your stiffener. Try it out on some small scraps to see what you like the best. Tom

Nice bag. I like the colours too. Tom

Welcome! Your English is doing just fine. In fact better than some where English is their native language. Tom

If you leave the post too long, it is likely to bend so the burr doesn't sit flat. Also while peening, use gentle taps and work in a circle going around the top of the post. It will flare more evenly and helps to pull the burr down tighter. The biggest mistake people usually make is being heavy fisted and pounding too hard. Keep the leather and bottom of the post flat against your anvil. Tilting any of the pieces will make it hard to properly set the rivet. I set my first copper rivet when I was around 12 years old. What a mess. I hadn't trimmed the post at all, I pounded the heck out of it, and of course bent the post over on top of the burr. Then my Dad showed me the right way to do it. Tom

They can be stitched or glued in. If the pocket is tight and you won't be pulling the ID out too often, then no stitching or glue is necessary. You might recover some nice flat pieces of plastic from clamshells that a lot of goods are packaged for sale in Tom

Nice! You have a very steady hand to do all that. I'd have squiggles all over the place! Tom

$350 plus if your market will bear it. Tom

Tandy's little 2# anvil http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/3101-00.aspx is adequate but I prefer a larger one that stays where I put it. Needs to be solidly supported as camano says. Tom

Fantastic job. Tom

It's called a slit braid. Did a Google search and found several references. Try this link Also some examples and photos here. Tom