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Northmount

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Everything posted by Northmount

  1. Northmount
    Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a long thread like this. Tom
  2. Northmount
    See this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53760&hl=aerostitch Tom
  3. Northmount
    I gather you like thin soles. Thin wears out faster. If you put thicker soles on, they will be stiffer and not have the flexibility that you appear to need. Tom
  4. Northmount
    Take a couple photos, back of the head, top of the head, and post so someone that knows the machine can point to the adjustments. Tom
  5. Northmount
    Buy Methyl Hydrate at your paint/lumber store. Low cost, 1 gallon / 4L size. Works well for thinning alcohol based dyes. Tom
  6. Northmount
    3x12x18" http://www.busybeetools.com/products/SURFACE-PLATE-12IN.-X-18IN.-X-3IN..html surfacing granite at Busybee. Tom
  7. Northmount
    All great comments. For those that use 2" straps with 2" spacing, now I see why so many butt cracks are visible, and why so many dogs squeeze out of their collars. Tom
  8. Northmount
    I agree LEDs are too expensive yet. Colour is improving, but the ones I've seen are not for me! You need to test them (or any others you are considering) to determine if their colour rendition is suitable for you and the type of work. Especially when trying to determine the colours of dye and how they appear. Tom
  9. Northmount
    You can get various types of lamps to suit your preferences. Compact fluorescent lamps (CFL) are available in warm, daylight, and one that has a distinctly blue cast which I can't stand. Good old tungsten lamps are yellowish, but we are accustomed to that so think it is relatively normal. I use OTT-Lite. Have a desk and floor lamp with daylight type bulbs in them. I find them to be quite helpful for my work, including doing paperwork. http://www.ottlite.com/ They are available in most big box stores. They have bulbs/lamps that fit regular bases too. Tom
  10. Northmount
    Here are a couple patterns: http://leatherworker...=15#entry205112 http://www.classicbe...letpatterns.pdf Do a search here or a google search for wallet patterns and you will find more. Tom
  11. Northmount
    Note that Coach uses a clamp-on buckle, so no skiving, no fold. If the buckle is put on as soon as the belt is cut to length, then the threads will be clamped as well (assuming the clamp is full belt width). So the threads shouldn't unravel. The keeper just slides on. You could put a rivet in it or a couple stitches by hand. Tom
  12. Northmount
    Was the leather wet when you sewed it? Kind of looks like the leather was quite soft. Is the leather from the belly? Also, are you using a leather point needle? Possible that your top and bottom tensions are too tight. They do appear to be balanced, so if you reduce the bottom tension, you will have to reduce the top as well. Tom
  13. Northmount
    If you saturate it with neatsfoot oil, it will never dry out and will be mushy. Apply sparingly and wait 8 hours or more. Tom
  14. Northmount
    No reason one way or the other. If you are used to running an electric machine slow enough to go around corners, I'd go electric. They both do the same thing. Tom
  15. Northmount
    Yes, do a few test pieces first to see if your tension needs adjustment, then adjust as needed to place the knot in the middle. Tom
  16. Northmount
    When doubling up the leather to make it thicker or for lining on curved objects, don't lay out flat and glue. Use contact cement, start at one edge and "roll" (form the curve) as you are gluing it together. And yes, the inside circumference is less than the outside circumference, so you have to make adjustments to the length. If it is the inside diameter that is critical, then add more length to the outside layer and vice-versa. Check your dimensions by fitting pieces together dry (no glue) with the final curve or shape in mind. The glued together layers will hold the shape and can tolerate some change in the bend radius without forming wrinkles. Tom
  17. Northmount
    Read post #127, and other subsequent posts. Always a good idea to read the last few posts in a long thread like this. Tom
  18. Northmount
    Take a look at how Nigel does the He has more videos as well.Tom
  19. Northmount
    The only reason I suggested leaving the spots off, was so you would have a nice flat surface to lay your ruler on as a cutting guide. If you are making several of this design you could make a cutting guide to fit with them. I would fully assemble the straps, glued, sewen, etc. before I trimmed the edges, then bevel the edge and do your edge treatment. Tom
  20. Northmount
    Hard spots in the leather, or the dye beginning to soak through from the back. Try leaving a sample in the dye longer to see if it all turns darker more evenly, or pull it out sooner before it has soaked through. These are guesses so you'll have to try another experiment! Tom
  21. Northmount
    Do the trimming before you put the rivets in. Then hold a metal ruler down tight or clamp it and cut both the leather and the lining at the same time. Make your pieces a little larger so you have some space to trim off. Tom
  22. Northmount
    As dirtclod says, leave wide flange and trim off the excess after you have sewen it. Tom
  23. Northmount
    Your friend will really appreciate the foul weather! Really nice job. Tom
  24. Northmount
    Unless asked to, does happen. But the critique section is a better choice ... and I see you are there. Like your watch bands and this test. Tom
  25. Northmount
    One a 1 ton, can do something the size of a Rolodex card with no trouble. So for a 2 ton, you might be stretching a bit. Comparing the length of the cutting edge, 10" is okay for the 1 ton, you would be cutting about 20" with your 6" circle. Probably doable. You need a good solid plate above and below, a suitable cutting board, and enough throat depth. I need to get a couple small dies made for my 1 ton, and a couple lager ones plus plates for my 20 ton shop press. Always more stuff to do! Tom
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