Northmount

A v gouge see http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=Gouge Tom

Applying, rubbing with the dauber is dissolving the previous layer(s) of satin sheen. It's not allowing it to build up in layers. Try spraying the finish on in light layers using either an airbrush or the prevo stuff from Tandy. You can do two or three layers a few minutes apart. Then let dry for overnight and do some more layers. We are going to have to get used to water based stuff since alcohol and other solvents are rated hazardous products and require special shipping. I was told that a 4 oz bottle of Fiebings dye will have a $35 hazardous shipping surcharge. So the Tandy manager here says in 18 months, they will no longer carry Fiebings products! So stock up now or buy larger sizes/quantities to reduce the unit cost for the surcharge. Not good news. Tom

Cheap rotary punches are just that, cheaply made. You want something with solid handles, not just formed from sheet metal. Solid, like a good pair of pliers. Rotary punches are handy, but can not reach very far into a project. If you have lots of punching to do, your hands will tire quickly. Solid drive punches, even with interchangeable tubes are better for a lot of your work. So get a set of drive punches, and save up for a good rotary punch later. $30 to 50 will get a good rotary punch. I've wrecked the cheap ones and pinched the palm of my hand when the handles collapse on 8 oz hard temper leather. Blood blisters are never nice! Tom

Dilute your dye first before applying it. Build up the colour in layers. Always try it out on a piece of the same leather as the projects due to the colour shift you will get with the leather's colour. Start with maybe 1 part dye to 5 parts thinner. Can dilute even further if needed. Tom

Doesn't stink as much, so people that are sensitive to chemical solvent smells find it much easier to cope with. Tom

Diameter of the top edge where the top of the belt rides, in other words outside diameter. Tom

I'd still try re-shaping it some. Just can't remove the stretch very well. Making a male and female mold may help if you have the time and some basic wood working equipment. Cut your leather pieces oversize before molding. Then you can trim off the excess and square things up some. Tom

Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines ... As noted. See banner ads at the top of this page. Refresh until you get Toledo ... Bob Kovar, also known as Cowboy Bob on this forum. Tom

Great first project. As you say, things will improve as you try more ideas and get lots of practice. Most importantly, have fun doing it. Tom

Clutch takes a lot of practice to be able to feather it so it slips the right amount for the speed you want to go. So, yes a servo is a big help. Digital servos (no brushes) have some programming options. Analog servos (brush type) aren't programmable (generally). Brush type, you need to check the brushes periodically. The more you use the machine, the more often they need checked. If you are sewing thick leather, you might want to consider a servo with 3:1 built in gear reduction. Will have more torque available at lower speeds. Something like the SewPro at Toledo Industrial Sewing machines. This will help if you need really slow for some of your work. If you need slower yet, add a speed reducer pulley. I did both on my machine. 3:1 at the servo, and 3:1 at the speed reducer pulley, so have 9:1 reduction. The machine will do from 3 seconds for 1 stitch to somewhere around 200-300 stitches per minute. Good for a slow guy like me. HP or wattage should be at least as large as the clutch motor (unless you add speed reducers). The clutch motor has some momentum to get the machine moving. Servo starts from zero. Tom

Either, as long as you aren't pulling the needle too. Depends on what you are sewing as to where you can hold onto the thread. Tom

Can't get back to flat, but you can stretch and adjust the shape if you dampen the leather. (if you heat dried, baked the leather, no can do) Make a plug the shape you want the inside of the case to be like, dampen the leather and force the plug in. Might want to wrap the plug with plastic wrap. Tom

Thanks. Always enjoy reviewing old books. The download is 3.8 MB. Downloaded here in just a few seconds. Thought that seems strange, opened the file and it's all there. Thanks again. Tom

Do a search for "John Barton" He makes exquisite cases. This search http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 turned up 33 posts, some asking the same questions. There is loads of info and photos here. Tom

Many servo motors can be set to reverse the rotation direction. Use the same switch used to prgam the max speed. If you do a search here, you should be able to find the instructions that have been posted for some brands. Then you should be able to mount the servo motor using the same mounting holes, assuming yours was the standard configuration. Tom

First, check your needle to see if it is oriented correctly and threaded from the correct side. Tom

You can do the same as with hand stitching if you want. Leave tails long and thread a couple needles. Can tie and tuck. Can use super glue, but it darkens light leather. Can back-stitch at the start and at the end. The starting stitch gets trapped nicely. But the end still needs tied or glued or whatever to keep it from loosening. I pull on the bottom thread and pull the top thread through so both are on the bottom. If it will be hidden, a drop of super glue, if not, tie and use a machine needle to push the ends inside. All depends on appearance and what will be visible after. Tom

I did a search for moldy leather, got 17 results with several that don't apply, but here are 2 to look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34385&hl=+moldy%20+leather#entry213634 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23063&hl=+moldy%20+leather#entry164878 You can find the others if you want more possibles. Hope this helps Tom

Have you tried http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/searchresults/1241-00.aspx for Tandy's money clip? I picked up one a while ago just to see how good it was. Hard to pry apart with nothing between them. Haven't used them yet so don't know how effective they are with a couple pieces of leather between them, plus a wad of bills. Tom

My apologies! I had no intention of driving you away, but rather some pointers that could help you find more information that you are looking for. You had two replies before mine with people helping, and that is what we want to do. We also want you to do some research where it is easily within your reach. That was my intent. Again, sorry for putting you off. Tom

Hard leather may have pushed your needle bar up. Then even thin or soft leather will be a problem. Did you have a jam? Wizcraft has a number of suggestions posted for many problems, search his posts. One suggestion he gives is to loosen your needle screw, drop the needle a little, may 1/8", tighten the needle in that position and see if it sews okay. If it does, you need to reset the needle bar. Tom

You need to search this forum for the types of work and tools. This question is asked twice a day, loads of answers and assistance is being provided and has been provided by great members here. Go to the top right of the page and you will see "new content" or use this link http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=viewNewContent&search_app=forums and pick settings on the left side. 2 weeks will get you lots of threads. You will see some of the same questions or very similar questions to yours. The search function is near the top right. It can become your new best friend when you are looking for particular information. You might even get distracted with things you find that are also interesting to you. I sure do! Lots to learn here. And welcome to the addiction. Tom

Just moisten it. Doesn't need to be soaked. Takes a long time to dry if you soak it. With just moist, you can start shaping it right away and it will start to hold its shape. Really worthwhile to do a little experimentation with the same type and weight of leather you are going to use. Tom

I've ground the inside foot on the right side so I can see the needle. And use a left toe outer foot. I'm thinking about grinding a slot in the front of the inner foot instead of the side. Tom

I'd be very careful about exhausting paint or dye fumes (other than latex or water based stuff) through a fan where the motor is included in the fume path. The right concentration of inflammable fumes and a spark or hot surface and POOF. A filter will only take out droplets, not gases. So when building your own setup, or modifying something else to do the job, think about safety first. Keep the motor and any wiring outside the fume path. Tom