Northmount

Try Toledo http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread.html sometimes has other thread colors. CTG

Many of these questions have been covered in posts over the past couple months, so use search to help find them. I'm no expert (x is an unknown quantity, spurt is a drip under pressure) but can help a little. - when starting to stitch a project, do I start ahead a bit, backstitch first, then forward over and then continue around? Start 2 or 3 stitches in from where you want to start, backstitch back to your starting point then forward and keep going. At the end, back stitch 2 or 3 stitches. I find it easier to keep needle and hole aligned by stopping with the needle down, then pulling the reverse lever down. Tie off the threads after. There are lots of posts about how to tie off, use super glue, burn the ends, etc. When starting out, always make sure you hold the threads tight until you have gone a couple stitches. - when I get back to the start do I stop at the "peak" of my initial back stitch and then back stitch a bit to finish off? Lots of choice here. Can start with no backstitch, make sure stitch is tight when you come back around to it, stitch over top, then a backstitch. Or no back stitches, but tighten and tie off the threads, especially if you can hide the tails between layers. Should be able to do it so you can't see the begin/end. I'm sure there are other options too, but I like to see no doubled up stitching. No beginning, no end! - the 2700 has a relatively small bobbin(imo), especially with 207 below. Are you limited to stitching the distance the bobbin will get you or is there a tidy way to stop and start with a full bobbin? My 2700 won't even feed 207 thread through the bobbin. Use a smaller diameter thread on the bottom. I did manage to replace the bobbin without losing the top once. Not easy to do. I took the article out from under the presser foot and didn't cut the top thread. I pulled stitches back to give me a couple inch tail on the bottom, pulled the top thread back through the needle and past the top tension disks, basically to the spool, then placed the needle in the next hole, picked up the bottom thread, and carried on. Then tied the bottom thread after. Was able to hide the note and tails. Not nice running out the bobbin part way through a long stitch line. You may have to hand wheel the machine to be able to stay in the original holes. - is it cheating to hand walk around corners or is that considered common practice? To me, there is no other way to start and stop exactly where you want to, and to be able to navigate tighter curves and corners. You do what is necessary to get the appearance and quality that you want in your finished product. A number of older machines had a hand crank pulley and later someone added a motor. The best of both worlds! Just don't whack yourself! - With my machine I got regular needles, is there a huge difference in the leatherpoint/tri needles? Do they have a noticeably easier time "cutting" through leather than the regular needles? (135x17) You may get a nicer bottom side stitch. A #24 needle through 1/4" of leather takes effort, regardless of the type of point. But dull needle is worse. On my little Singer flatbed 20-33, a leather point needle improves both stitch quality and bottom side appearance. Lubricated thread makes a big difference. - Is there a resource where these newbie questions are all laid out? The search function at the top of the page is your best friend. You'll soon get to know which posters have the best answers and most helpful information for a wide variety of topics. For sewing and machines, Sewmun, Art, 50 years leather, Wizcrafts, Cobra Steve and several others. Make a few small useful items, like protective knife sheaths for your leather knives, simple drawstring purse, and other things you can use around home. Helps to see your own progress, and to have made a few items you are going to use. At the same time you can experiment with fabrication techniques, carving and tooling, finishes, antiques, etc. Good luck, keep at it. CTG

And be aware that Apple's iStuff doesn't support Flash. To work around that, need to have your page detect the browser type (Safari) and use an alternate scheme. CTG

The confusion started with neither machine being identified, so my comment was just to ensure that it was clear the 2700 was a walking foot type. No offense intended.

Dimensional specs for most phones are available on the web on the OEMs site. Cut and carve a chunk of wood to the same or slightly larger dimensions to check fit if you don't have access to the phone or are wet forming. If wet forming, add at least 1/16" to the dimensions, and split the block in half lengthwise. Use a skewer or such to spread the halves a little. The when it's dry, you can pull the skewer out, and no big fight to get the block out! CTG

The 2700 does have a walking foot. There are videos on YouTube showing its operation and threading. Take a look see! I would ask for either a gear reduction servo or a speed reducer pulley set if you are going to sew 1/4 leather, else you will have to hand wheel most starts, especially starting off with a back-stitch. CTG

A clutch motor runs at 1750 RPM, constant speed. When you want to go slow, you have to feather the clutch. Sometimes, either you shift your foot position very slightly or the clutch grabs, and you're away to the races, lost control and not able to keep up with the machine, so the stitches aren't where you want them. Maybe even wrecked the piece you have spent hours on. So you wind up having to hand wheel the machine for all but longer runs of straight stitching. If you are going to sew 1/4" leather, do yourself a favor and get a gear reduction servo from Toledo, Bob Kovar. You need torque to punch through the leather, and slow speed to control your stitch placement. A larger pulley on your machine would help too. The biggest difference I see speed wise between the smaller machines versus big harness stichers, both using the same gear reduction servo is the harness stitcher has a much larger pulley. That gets your speed down even further and much greater torque to punch through the leather. If you have no experience with sewing machines sewing leather, I would recommend you find a shop where you can at least observe a machine or two in action. If they will let you try them out, so much the better. Maybe they will be kind enough to give you a little instruction too. Electric motors need a little speed to be able to develop adequate torque. Even with a servo, at its lowest speed, its torque is reduced compared to a hundred RPM higher. Motor speed and torque need to be matched to the application. There are trade offs in both directions. You need to research and pick the best for you. CTG

Nice! The only critique I have is to scale the horseshoe and head down just a little so it doesn't run over the fold. I just did the same horse head a couple times recently. The first for practice, the next on the inside of a leather binder. After I did the first one, I went out to a ranch and photographed my grand daughter with several horses. Made sure to get a few shots of the same profile as the pattern. Then fixed the mane, fore lock between the ears, and the nostril. My practice run nostril was too high, too far above the upper lip. I guess the one thing I learned is to look at the real thing or some good photos, then make sure my pattern (especially after it is traced on to the leather) has the right proportions. Keep up the good work. CTG

Double that! I seem to have a habit of collecting books, magazines, patterns, etc. I'm running out of space so try to scan stuff and put it on my computer. But I keep getting further behind. I did manage to scan 2 shelves 4 ft long each, but they are filled up again!

I agree with NoName. There are lots of resources from a lot of people through the ages. There are multiple ways of doing things, some better for certain cases than others. What works for some doesn't work for others. Here on LW we see many opinions of how to do things the best way. Opinions of quality of tools and leather ... All these opinions help form the way we do our work, just the same as researching and studying from various books by various authors. AS and many others have advanced our arts and capabilities and should be given due credit for the work, skills, and foresight. Same as we appreciate the work of many masters that are or have been part of this forum, one of the best forums and resources worldwide. Learn what you can from others and apply it to improving your skills. I spent 19 years as an instructor in a technical school. The best educated and talented people are those that research and learn the "building blocks" and learn to apply them in their work. "Burning" books does not accomplish this. Keep learning through all the resources we have at our disposal. We have so much available to us now versus even 10 years ago. CTG

Depends a lot on your presser foot pressure. The tighter it is turned down, the more likely it will leave a mark. Damp leather is almost certain to leave a mark. These statements apply to all machines. 2700 is a good machine, but you have to help it punch through 2 layers 8 oz leather when starting at low speed. CTG

Nice to have information compiled into a summarized form. Most appreciated by many here I suspect. One thing that would be nice to add is a link back to the original posts so people can go back and see the associated comments if they wish. Sometimes I glean info from those comments that is usefull for me, especially where there is more than one way to do things. Keep it up. CTG

It did come with their standard servo motor. So if you are going to use it for 1/4" plus leather with #24 needle, you need to have it modified, hopefully by the seller. Up to you to describe how you are using it and to negotiate the addition of a speed reducer. If you are using it with a couple layers of 4 oz leather and smaller needle, you will be okay. CTG

My Techsew 2700 is working well for me. My only complaint is with 2 layers of 8 oz leather, to get enough starting torque, as soon as the needle punches through, it is going a little too fast for me. I'm changing to a servo with gear reduction to eliminate that problem, and putting the current servo on my singer flat bed, replacing the clutch motor that dislikes me! See if you can get a speed reducer pulley set put on it if you are going to use it with 1/4" of leather. CTG

Do a google search for train silhouette and pick graphics. http://www.google.ca/search?q=train+silhouette&hl=en&client=safari&tbo=d&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=XUejT_fVKIui8ASKz6RA&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CF4Q_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=644 Some interesting ones came up that you could adapt. CTG

Wood dyes have been mentioned in posts here. Some are using them. Try your best friend, the search tool and search for wood dye. Test it on some scrap pieces to get the color and density you want.CTG

Oxalic acid might lighten the leather. You can oil lightly with Olive OIl to darken it slightly. You can leave them out in the sun to darken normaly. There are threads here about oiling and the results, as well as sun tanning. Neatsfoot Oil will darken more. I have some real Neatsfoot OIl that is > 50 years old, it sure darkens leather a lot! You have to experiment in a place not normally visible, like under the seat where the edges are turned under and stapled. CTG

Businesses, politicians, governments, etc. look at one letter or email being the opinion of anywhere from 50 to 200 or more people. The rest of us are too lazy or reticent to say anything, even though we should. I guess it says something about why the squeaky wheel gets greased. So you have a lot of "unvoiced" thank yous. Keep feeding us Chancey. CTG

Great case!

Do the deglazer, then bleach with oxalic acid. Lots of info here on oxalic acid, do a search for it CTG

Some post here recently said oil paint peals when the leather is flexed. Do a search, there is lots of info already posted. CTG

Try this thread Codes Model of the servo may be different than yours, so check closely before you get too excited! CTG

I know this is a five year old thread, but would be interested to know how well these dies have worked for you. And if you have any other new info to add. Regards, CTG

Generally one coat is enough. Only on very porous stuff should you use more than one coat. One porous material, if it has lost all it's shine as it dries, you can go over it again. If you keep the glue brush in a closed container with a quarter inch of solvent in it, the brush doesn't go hard. Take it out when ready to use and clean by wire brushing it from base of bristles to the tip. Sometimes might have to swish it around in some more solvent, then brush it again. I have used an ordinary 1" wide natural bristle paint brush for years this way. Wider brushes of course cover larger areas faster. CTG

There are a number of threads about it here. Do a search and you will find them. One makes a comment about needing three arms to use it. CTG