Art

This is NOT a course in leather restoration. That being said, You need to find an area where any experimentation will be unnoticeable. This could be somewhere under a cushion although this is the very place where their might not be any treatment. There are three or four levels of cleaning that can work. The first three will not get wax and all the oil off. A mild cleaner like Superior SVC will clean anything, it is mild and non abrasive. Next level up is Z7, this is a bit stronger, but can be diluted with water. I generally doesn't take the finish off. Next up is S-100 which is alcohol based (the first two were water based) and could easily lift the finish if it is Bycast, but it should really know what you have, and it should be used on aniline and semi-aniline real leather only. SLP is leather prep, and is not used for cleaning or removing anything but for opening up the leather to receive dye/color. As you can see, it isn't that easy without training. You are fortunate that you have basically a practice piece. I do mainly motorcycle gear (and of course my own stuff, cars, boats, etc) so I don't know everything about furniture. If you are not 100% sure (done one got a t-shirt) TEST. As a starter, try some Murphy's oil soap and give the area a good cleaning, scrub if you have to with a soft/medium brush, get the soap off and let it dry, if water beads-up then there is something else on there and you will need to use a heavier cleaner. I always go with Murphy's first, it's cheap, and it works. Try Pecard's again and rub it in, don't just slather it on and leave it. Let it dry in a warm (hot even) spot for a day or two, then buff it up. If you want to fix the cracks and scuffs and recolor, that is a big job and will require a lot of stuff and some training, it ain't rocket science, but you have to work at it. Art

There is probably some coating on the leather, it is usually a wax that needs to be removed before the leather treatment can be absorbed, and definitely before any repairs can be made. I suggest you consult a professional refinisher. Art

Mandy, Skive and stitch in a long splice (think two door stops with glue) in each leg, if you have to, untie the bleed not up to that point. Measure up carefully so the knots are uninterrupted when you tie the bleed knots and complete the leash. Then maybe a fisherman's knot would look cool, sometimes called a blood (as opposed to bleed) knot. Most leashes get chewed off right at the snap. If that is the case, just trim up and reinstall the snap. Art

How old is it, and/or what type of leather is it? Full Grain -- probably not Some other aniline or semi-aniline leather -- maybe Bycast Leather -- likely Bonded Leather -- could be, maybe, probably is. The first two will take finish or leather treatment. The last two not so much, and with Bycast, you could take the finish right off if you use the wrong stuff. Three or four piece living room suite in bonded leather, $599 on TV, if you drive a hard bargain, $599 with a TV. Most standard AND economy cars come with leather interior standard or as a low cost option. My '53 Packard came with a leather interior, and believe me, a lot of cows died for that interior. When you go to repair, or refinish leather, you must know the type. If you have a zippered cushion, see what the backside looks like. When you are going to go and refinish something, try a small place on the back at the bottom before you do the whole thing. Art

Scott, Short answer, No. Long answer, use a neoprene (chloroprene polymerization) type of cement. Master general purpose, Master Max Bond, Renia Colle de Cologne, Renia Ortec. Glues have changed so much recently that those ore the only ones I am pretty sure of. Most any brand of cyanoacrylate (super glue) should also work. Renia products don't contain toluene so are safer around pregnant women (pregnant men are another story). Master Max Bond is the same as Renia Colle de Cologne, no toluene. The Master General Purpose I have has toluene, I don't know if there is a newer product that doesn't. Art

Smirak, You might want to travel to Brettuns Village in Lewston, Maine, about a 75-100 mile drive. Good place, good people, good leather, good tools. It doesn't matter if you buy Tandy tools or More Expensive Tools (well yes it does, buy the best you can afford), buy them one at a time and only what you need to complete your project. A good leatherworker with 10 tools can build a magnificent product while a less talented (less experienced) leatherworker with a hundred tools can make a mediocre product. Just what you need, when you need it. Sit down and watch, Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage videos, all of them. Watch Nigel's stitching videos and his review of pricking irons two or three times, pay attention to the ones that can be used as stitching irons (there is a difference). There are other videos at Springfield Leather Company site, enjoy and learn something. Tools: You need a strop for everything that cuts. Green compound on one side, stropping compound on the other. Make it or buy it, but have it. Your first knife should be a box cutter with these blades. Learn to use and strop this then move up if you need to. The largest size Douglas Stitching Awl from Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. Buy a good but inexpensive handle for the awl, the Douglas handle is great but expensive. Also get a regular Stanley or other awl for opening up backstitching holes. You are going to have to sharpen and strop/polish to awl blade, strop often and you won't have to sharpen that often. Beeswax from any bee keeper or leather joint. 5 Cord or equivalent thread. Don't get sinew get linen or polyester thread. Ask your dealer. Size 0 John James Harness needles, Rocky Mountain has them, or C.S. Osborne which generally everyone has. I prefer JJ. Size 0 will fit 5 or 6 cord thread. Get a #1 or #2 edger from Barry King, Ron's Tools Round Bottom Edger, or a good used one from Bruce Johnson. Remember, when buying old harness tools, they ran large, don't buy anything over a #1 or #2. C.S. Osborne, H.F. Osborne, Gomph and many others made fine edgers and buying from Bruce is safe. Don't fret over the cost of these things (new or used), you will use them all the time and a good one is necessary. Fiebings Tanners Bond glue or whatever floats your boat. I've used Master and Renia for years, but the white glue is a less technical product. To start, use pre-dyed leather so you won't have to go there. Edge Kote of some kind, or some burnishing regimine. I use Giardini paints from Lekoza, maybe too high tech to start. Fiebing's Edge Kote may be easier and it is available everywhere. This is where you start, don't buy a gazillion tools and expect to get more from them than you can provide. Art

You might want to get in touch with Jerry Van Amburg at Van Amburg Leathers. Judging by the piece in the pic, that will not be that easy to find, but if anyone can, or can tell you where to get it, Jerry can. Art

I have never seen a self oiler that oiled everything it needed to, or put the right amount of oil on anything it did oil. Newer production machines have self oilers that do an ok job, but they also usually have techs who are looking at the machines once in a while. Home machines are a different animal, most have "permanently lubricated" bearings, but I still like to oil the hook. I see cheap Bernina (and you all thought they only made expensive machines) machines with frozen hook shafts all the time, they aren't worth fixing, just replace. Leatherworking machines are run very slow as compared to a production sewing machine that is maybe doing seams all day where it is blasting along, in short bursts or rigged to continuously sew, at mach 5. The pumps in these machines are designed to deliver oil at the top speeds, maybe not so much at lower speeds. Note that there aren't really any leatherworking machines in other than factories, and nothing we could afford anyway. We use machines that are modified by dealers or distributors to service our needs. I guess what I am saying is that I don't trust an automatic oiler to oil. I trust me to make sure everything that needs oil is getting some, because those auto oilers don't necessarily provide oil everywhere. Ford engines (back in my day) ran 90 psi of pressure at idle or speed. But Datsun (I said in my day) engines varied pressure with engine speed. Different designs for the same application, although in the straight six motors, rear main bearing starvation was common in racing apps. So if designed for slow speed apps, pressure oiling would be fine, but like I said, nobody really makes that type of machine. If you go with the Ford design principal, oiling the sewing parts at continuous pressure, would cause leaks that would fall onto the work. This is often the problem when these systems don't work well. That being said, some machines pressure oil the hook system and let you manually oil the rest of the system, often, these have oil tanks as opposed to sumps (oil pan). These can and often are the walking foot and needle feed machines you are referring to, where some of the shafts run externally from the case. I LIKE red holes I have to put oil into. The whole purpose in all of this is to eliminate the tech and the associated machine downtime. I guess it works in factories as they are still doing it. The 111 machines are getting a little hard to find cheap parts for, however, some of the parts from the currently produced clones MAY work. Adler, Brother, and Consew all make great machines although some of those are made in China, and the clones made in the same factories are very good. It is all in the numbers. You will find accessories for machines that have millions of users, hell gazillions of users, and it has to be a useful accessory that everyone will want. The 111, 211, 153, etc. just isn't that machine. Feet you can find all day long, binders maybe. Call Gregg at Keystone Sewing in Philly, or Bob at Toledo Industrial to see what's available. Art

Nick-O Cobra Cowboy Techsew Find out about shoes and what it takes to bond them at Renia USA There are a few different glues used in the bespoke shoemaking discipline, however, shoe repair can be done with just a few. I have used Master All Purpose for years but have switched over to Master Max-Bond which is just Renia Colle de Cologne, Renia Ortec also works, a little different but not much. You might be interested in some of the Primers and Cross-Linkers too. If all else fails, there is Super Glue, but it is expensive with the amount of it you need for shoes. Art

Just from your post, you seem very inexperienced with sewing machines. Industrial machines, while less complicated than their home.electronic brethren, are built for speed and are usually quite mechanical (those with buttons, tend to control positioning motors and solenoid operated trimmers). However, Industrial machines are their own beast, and expect (if not demand) a tech be around to keep them going. This is not beyond the realm of the average garment pro, but even they are really not capable of fixing real problems. True industrial machines like the Yamata (Feiyue) 610, are designed to have a tech around from birth to death. Sometimes they come out of the box with either broken parts, or so badly setup that you have to go back and set them up from scratch. Sometimes parts are broken or an engineering enhancement may have been applied at the factory that just isn't right. Remember, if they can make it cheaper, they will, and if they can pass some of the labor on to the customer, that makes them more competitive. But hey, some come out of the box ready to run. So, I can't really recommend that a newbie buy a machine direct. In addition, leather sewing machines for general use run slow. They use speed reducers to give them more power at lower speeds. They also use servo motors. Servo motors make custom leatherwork a lot more precise and controllable than the old clutch motors (factories still use them because they are cheap and fast). I would recommend you call some of the machine dealers listed at the top of the page, and ask about the machine you are looking at. They are honest and will give you a good answer. The post machine is used to put the parts of the shoe together. They also use a lot of adhesives. The adhesives are very effective and will hold the shoe together by themselves, but the stitching may help in construction and gives a quality or higher price look to the shoe. Outsoles are all overlap and adhesive, and as far from bespoke shoemaking as as you can get. Everything is designed for efficiency in construction. Sometimes this makes working on already manufactured shoes a labor intensive process. One buildup sole for a $20 ($40 for the pair) shoe is $60. The price is the same for a $120 pair. You really need to determine if you need the post machine, because it is uncomfortable to do flat sewing on, even with a custom tabletop. You need to deconstruct a pair of shoes like the ones you intend to work on to see how they are put together. You will be surprised that most if not all of the sewing can be done on a flatbed or with glue. Art

I had a Class 7 or two years ago. Not a great machine for leather. A very good machine for canvas. I sold them to a guy who does rental tents (yes there is actually a need for that) who just loves it. The Tippmann Boss is not that hard to pull through, however doing belts or harness with one can be a bit tiring. Art

You are going to be sewing firmer leather, and you need the bigger machine for that. If you have to, get a Boss till you're ready to move up, your arm will let you know. Art

Good catch Wiz, I forgot all about the Tippmann Boss, and then don't ever short stroke it, it has a lever, not a crank, the crank is on the Luberto Cub. Then Hi Ho Silver, there is the Tippmann Aerostitch They would all work, but if you are making a lot, the Boss and the Cub would get old after a while, and my aching arm old. Let's not forget the Aerostitch, they run pretty good, and aren't complicated at all. If the Boss is tempting, get an iron one, not the aluminium one. Boss: Aerostitch: I couldn't find anything on the Cub (there aren't a lot of them) so I included a little footage of probably the prettiest machine I have ever owned, a Campbell Lockstitch. Note the stitch quality. These are right expensive machines and take a little training to learn to tend to them, however not nearly as complicated as the Union Lockstitch.

I think the miamisewing prices are a little (or a lot) high. My opinion. If you go to any of the larger shows like Sheridan or Wichita Falls, you can usually find Nick Pittman from Nick-O Sewing. He usually brings a bunch of reconditioned machines with him. Long arm, short arm flat...Get the arm, long or short, when you need it, you need it, they don't put them on there for nothing. Machines, An ASE No. 9 would be a good machine for harness. There wasn't anything that broke that I couldn't make or buy, but other than needles (which are plentiful, same as most big stitchers), I didn't really need to. This machine had an arm like most big stitchers, and would sew 7/8 or more in most thread sizes. It sewed straight and you could crank it or run it with a motor. I paid $900 for it and sold it for $2800. Ferdinand Bull 900-B. Beautiful jump foot harness machine, will do practically anything, with any thread, poly or nylon. I've seen these go complete with stand and motor for $1700 or less. Of course a used Cowboy or Cobra, or Artisan short arm that was a trade in could also get you into your price range. Call the dealers and have them put you on the list for one. Art

I used to recommend a lot of used machines, and still do for someone who is capable of dealing with them. But time has passed, and these machines, while still around and doing yeoman's work, are getting a little long in the tooth for serious work. The 153w101 and 2 and 3 are based on the venerable 111 with the addition of the riser and the arm. Parts for both these machine classes are not getting any easier to find and for some of the sub-classes darned near impossible without a ransom. These machines were and are still great for medium duty leatherwork. Fortunately, some of the manufacturers realized that and make quite similar machines that have a few more capabilities than their predecessors. The 227R comes to mind. This can be found at Bob Kovar's Toledo Sewing Machine, a good place to do business. Usually you can get these with either the large or small bobbin, and for my dollars, I've never needed the small shaft that comes with the small bobbin, and don't you just hate to run out? So, for the sake of a dollar (or a bunch of them) don't jump into the used end of the pool unless you can swim. Art

While a lot of machines will feed biothane, I have found the jump foot machines like the ASE No. 9, The Campbell, The Ferdco Bull and some others do the best. Wanting to run 277 thread will pretty much assure that it will be a larger machine like those mentioned. Art

I have a bottle jack 20 ton press that can be used as a clicker. Instead it is used as a holster press. It also works great for pressing bearings and sleeves in and out. However, I do have a real clicker that holds down the southeast end of the garage. It works for some parts I do a ton of. If you want to come down and use my clicker (the real one) I expect $20 and hour or so, or something in trade. If you bring a case of Heineken, please don't try to drink it all yourself; I don't let drunks use my equipment. Even at these reasonable rates, I don't have a line waiting to use the clicker. I probably do more clicking for the Boy Scouts than I do for others, and I don't charge anything for that, and they usually get the leather for free too. I usually don't let the Scouts click, but the leaders are usually capable (although rather slow). You set-up rules and they comply or leave. I think even with the air assisted bottle jack press (I put an air drive jack on mine), your throughput isn't going to be very great. Nevertheless, you are not putting much at risk giving it a shot. Art

Most post bed machines are limited to 33, 46, 69, and 92 thread; maybe 138 if you run 92 or preferably 69 in the bobbin, but i've never needed or had luck with that. A flat bed is good for sewing garments and some decorating (like boot tops). The cylinder arm is pretty useful and can do most anything with planning. When you design a bag, if you only have one type of machine like a cylinder arm, you have to plan how you are going to close the bag and do any inside work to the pieces before you close. If you take in repairs, then the post can save you time on some repairs. If the thread limitations are not a problem, then a post is nice to have, but I bought a cylinder and a flatbed before I bought the post. The post has probably paid for itself, but it is just a convenience really, I could do without it, there is hand sewing if necessary and everyone should know how to do that. It is harder to sew a straight line with a post, but you learn to pay attention; it will however sew right up to the edge of something if necessary. Art

Depending on condition, you could end-up putting 2 or so grand into it, then again it might work just right. Harness or holsters, it is a good machine. They can be a little finicky getting them running, but if you do the maintenance they will go on forever. They have really big bobbins which is a reason manufacturers use them. What I would do is sew it off to make sure it is in decent shape, pay the grand and take it to the Weaver Consignment Auction and sell it. You might be surprised. Art

Hi YinTx, No need for a PM, just hit the report button at the bottom of the offending post and you send all of us a message. Art Moderator

TinTx, Not the first time we have seen it. Instead of your post, you should report the post. We got several reports on this post and have taken care of it. Unfortunately, with the post deleted, your post makes no sense at all. So please, use the report function. Art Moderator

If you are spraying spirit dyes, make sure you have teflon seals in your brush, NOT rubber. Ribber goes all gooey (a chemical term) when it has interaction with the alcohol. However, if the price is right, you can just replace the airbrush (although the seals would be more economical) when they deteriorate. Art

If you get two or more leatherworkers together, there will probably be three or more opinions on the best stamping tools. Opinions about who made or still makes the best tools are like mothers, everybody has one. It is hard to pay homage to all the toolmakers that have come and gone, but I'll try and list some of them. Various saddlemakers. These were custom made tools, often from a nail or if necessary from a piece of tool steel. Almost NEVER signed and seldom marked with anything, they nonetheless could get the job done. Most of these were made circa 1946 or before, but some later. If you see three hash marks at the top of the stamp it was made from a nail, but you won't always find these.. Dick McGahen made tools or had them handmade by skilled artisans like Ken Griffin, Ellis Barnes, and others. These were quality tools seldom marked. Although this was the beginning of Craftool, few were marked with the maker or Craftool and no two were really "alike". Saddle makers could see what the tool actually was and nobody would look at the numbers if the tools had them anyway. This was in the later 1940s and early 1950s, mainly in California. Craftools really brought leather carving and stamping to the masses (that's us). When Craftool started numbering the tools sometime in the 1950s (I think), they were marked "Craftool Co" and the number. This pretty much stayed the same up through 1962. These were handmade as far as I can tell. In 1963, Craftool started adding a letter prefix to the tool number, so now they were marked "Craftool Co", a prefix (for tool type), and then the number. This marking continued until sometime in 1969. To this point, these were really very good tools. In 1969, the marking changed to "Craftool Co. USA" and retained the Letter Prefix and tool Number markings. They eventually changed the name to "Craftool USA" the letter tool type identifier prefix and the tool number until they stopped production in the US in 1999. Even toward the end, they were decent tools, well worth their cost at Tandy. After the demise of Tandy, the production of Craftools moved offshore. Tools that I have seen and used were in my opinion lacking in impression, quality, and plating. Metal under the plating was not impressive, but hey, for the cost, what do you expect. However, the beveling tools are acceptable and a good entry level product. Buy it, if you like it and use it a lot, get a custom maker to make you a better one. Ray Hackbarth made tools in the late 1940s and 1950s for the carvers at Porter and also advertised in papers and Magazines in the Phoenix area. Ray made great tools, you see them occasionally, but not often. He made some of the first swivel knives of what we could be called the "modern" design. Gomph-Hackbarth Tools, 10754 Martineau Rd. N., Elfrida, AZ 85610 520-642-3891 are neither Gomph or Hackbarth. This company was started by Ellis Barnes who I talked to on the phone a lot. A lot of the knowlege of the history of stamping tools was locked-up in his head and he would spend hours on the phone talking about it. He was one of the original Craftool machinists or makers. I can only wish I wrote all that down when talking to him. Ellis made a line of tools under the Gomph-Hackbarth name in various steels, some 1018, and some stainless. I have about 20 or so of these tools and they are very good. I have one problem with them, I have big hands and they are too short. It isn't an all the time problem, but maul to finger interference does occur, enough that I just keep them in my collection. Ellis passed several years ago, and I miss him now that I have the time to spend on the phone. Lonnie Height was Ellis' assistant, and he took over for Ellis and seems to be doing a pretty good job of producing tools. Try them at a show, you may like them. Robert Beard, http://robertbeardtools.scalabledata.com/catalog.html is a custom maker in New Mexico. Bob travels the county and internationally teaching classes, and his time in New Mexico handmaking tools. I say handmake here and that is exactly what happens. The handle of the tool is profiled by his assistant, and then Bob sits with his rotary handpiece and files and constructs the business end of the tool. Bob is the consummate artist, and can make anything you want, but you will have to wait a year or more to get them. His basic tools like bevelers and such are available at shows and if you take one of his classes, tools for that class will usually be available. Bob's tools are usually O1 tool steel, hardened and blued, beautifully blued like on a Beretta shotgun. Are these my favorite tools, yes, most definitely. Bob also makes arguably the best swivel knives and blades on planet earth in addition to a skiving knife I particularly am fond of. His edgers are very good also. Bob also makes videos that when available are excellent. Visit Bob at a show to see the excellent tools he makes and some of his artwork. Barry King, Sheridan, WY 307-672-5657, http://www.barrykingtools.com/index.htm is a custom maker of stamping and other leatherworking tools. Barry makes it to most shows and his tools definately have glitz, but that ain't chrome pardner, that's stainless steel. Barry is the grandson of Don King but he's not locked into that era. Barry uses CNC machinery to make his tools and does it himself and with help in his own machine shop in Sheridan where everything from manufacture to quality control is right where it belongs. His tools are perfect and identical which is a good thing, and his geometrics are prized all over the leatherworking community. Barry also makes mauls and mallets for stamping or whatever. I have several of these up to a 96oz one for really whacking things. Again, these mauls are world renowned, and can be seen and tried at any show. Barry also makes some edgers that are pretty fine, and a good nuts and bolts swivel knife and blades that ain't elegant, but it sure works. You would not go wrong if you had only Barry King tools. Jeremiah Watt, Horseshoe Brand Tools, Coalinga, CA 559-935-2172 www.ranch2arena.com is another long standing high quality toolmaker. His stamping tools are first drawer, but his saddlemaking and other general leatherworking tools are things of beauty, quality, and function. You can tell this man takes pride in his tools. His findings, or fittings are also first rate and will function perfectly on any saddle or other leather item. Jay Gore: Gore Tool Route 1, Box 306-B Caddo Mills, Texas 75135-9801 800-859-8338 who is renowned for his geometrics. I don't think these tools are being produced at this time, they are fine tools. McMillen Leather Tool Company 864 Four Waters Drive Sunrise Beach, MO 65079 phone: 573-374-7880, formerly of Kansas City is another excellent tool company. Don't try to make sense of the numbering system. This company has been producing for a long time and builds a fine product. Craft Co. Japan has made stamps since at least 2009. The ones I have seen and used have been of good quality and execution. I have not found a supplier for them recently, but I keep seeing the stamps. This is not by any means a list of all the toolmakers. This is just an overview of what you can reasonably expect to get or be able to find. Frank Eberle, Bill Woodriff, Roth, Barnes, Stohlman, and others all made tools but your chances of running across these are slim and they are probably not marked that well anyway. You occasionally run across RBS tools (I mean VERY occasionally) in a bunch of Craftools, Ellis told me they were some tools he and Stohlman made in collaboration with Mr Roth who bought Craftool in the beginning. It is unfortunate that most of these early tools are no longer used but only collected.

Michelle, I also like the Weaver Strop Board, but with a few changes. First off, there is no magic to the strop board, you need a table saw or something to put slits in pine board and some leather to stick in the slits. You can make yours as long and wide as necessary or desired. The aluminum oxide they say to use is prone to getting into everything on the bench and is hard to get on the leather very effectively. I use a product Polish-O-Ray 140 from Brownell's instead of the Aluminum Oxide. This compound has been used for decades in the gunsmithing industry for polishing (to include severe removal of rust etc) before blueing. While normally used on a hard or soft felt wheel, it also works very well here. That Plexiglas divider they use is worthless. I removed the one I had because I wasn't using Al₂O₃. Now the thing doesn't rock when upside down sitting on paper (I use old tail end rolls of news sheet from an in-law who is a printer). The bottom is just the right size to glue a hard piece of horse butt to make a strop. Art

I assume "English Bridle" (Mexican Bridle), but what cut? Art