Art

This is an interesting video, although not much on instruction. Art

Forgettaboudit. In the world market today with everyone looking to make a buck anyway they can, but mostly to take advantage of the US market; you have to use the same strategy that everyone else is using. Ron Popeil had it right. Develop the product in secret, produce a gazillion of them, and then blitzkrieg the market at a reasonable price. If your price is very competitive, your product may have legs (like the pocket fisherman), but it is usually the one and done paradigm. You take the majority of what there is in one stroke and move on. For the craftsman, pursuing legal action is a farce. If you go to court, and it will take a TON of money to get there, the defense will show 20 different whatsits that are similar, and your case is toast. Sorry there is no better answer, but it is what it is, Art

Call Springfield Leather (they have a website too). They'll know exactly what you want. Art

If you watch the video all the way through, it is from Neel's Saddlery who is the importer for CowBoy machines. It gives all of Neel's contact information. Art

In it's usual application, the convex edge is really a primary bevel. This leaves a maximum amount of metal behind the edge, giving a little more support. While I can get most knives really sharp with the convex bevel, it seldom stays that way because the edge will eventually have to be sharpened and a flat bevel will generally be applied. The secondary bevel is pretty much the norm on most knives unless the knifemaker wants to up "through the belts" to get the convex edge finish they want. This goes for the hollow ground edge also. Art

I use both the hollow ground and the convex edge types, it just depends on the knife. I accomplish both of these edgen on the same belt grinder. Sometimes when out of the shop and the grinder isn't available, a secondary flat edge can be applied. The secondary edge can also be applied if a really sharp/acute angle is desired, however the durability of the edge will suffer. My skiving knives are purely flat edges. Now to your question. Stropping will seldom remove much metal, it is designed to true the edge that is there and remove any scratches. You have to learn to apply the same angle for any stropping stroke and maintain that angle throughout the stroke. There is the tendency to pitch the angle up at the end of the stroke in anticipation of flipping the knife over and stropping the other side. This should be avoided of course. So, the type of edge has little effect on how you strop or the effectiveness of the stropping. Most knives I have seen have a secondary flat edge on them, and this is actually a good thing, as not many folks haul a belt grinder around with them. You can apply a secondary flat edge to a convex or hollow ground (or flat edged) knife in the field with good results and any knifemaker should be expecting that to happen. Secondary edges are very common, especially in hollow ground knives, and generally all knives once they have been sharpened. Knives sharpened to a hollow ground edge are usually less than durable (e.g. straight razor). Convex knives sharpened to a single primary convex edge tend to have a greater angle for an edge you can chop down a tree with, but maybe wouldn't want to use to shave (arm hair is one thing, a beard is a little more difficult). This is probably a little more info than you wanted. Art

I think the "Big" maker marks are a throwback to the old West where they were advertising. I don't see why they can't provide the same function today, especially with the plethora of CAS folks doing holsterwork. I have one I use for holsters and door ringers (usually applied to the back). I have a small Beard tool that is my chop, that I put somewhere in the stamping. Remember that the bigger those makers marks are, the harder they are to set so that they look deep and even. Barry King 96oz maul comes in handy. Art

goldstamping, You will get better response if you follow the Marketplace rules and provide pricing on all your goods. Please do so as soon as possible. Art Moderator

This topic has gone off the tracks. Please start a new topic or whatever. Art Moderator

It really is a matter of what you get used to and what you like. I started with that little leather mallet from Tandy (it really was Tandy back in those days) which did more to turn me off of mallets than anything else. Next thing was an original Maul Master (the one John Bianchi designed) which was anything but good for tooling. Somewhere along the line I picked up one of Bob's mauls which I use today although it is a little lite for me. For anything heavier than 16oz, the Bearman Mauls are treating me well, a lot like Bob's. If you are just starting out, stay on the lite size (16 oz. or so), but Maul or mallet is really an individual thing. Art

Yes, and "Z" is left. Art

You guys in the UK have Abbey and I think even a TLF now. For leather you have Baker who produces the best oak tannage that I know of, Sedgwick produces very nice curried products. Art

Be careful with old Adlers from before the war. The factories were bombed and they rebuild with new models and new designs. They just didn't manufacture any more parts for those "before war" machines. Parts are always a problem. Chinese clones from reputable factories are actually pretty good, even the Adlers that were made there. I use a Chinese clone to sew fire retarding, proofing, and suppression equipment. Set up from the factory just as the original 441. Kevlar thread takes its toll on sewing parts and the thread path, but those parts are easily replaced, and readily available. This is one of the good things about the 441 and it's clones; there are gazillions of parts, just a short drive or a phone call away. I've had the big 441 for over 4 years, and it sews a lot at 800 spm for days and days in a row. I do oil it often, and occasionally replace a thread guide now and again, but needles are really the part that wears out. All of the dealers that I know also warrant their products fully, if there is a junk pile with Cobras in it, let me at it. Art

Milton Sokol & Co. (Demar Leather) in NY or Hide House in California. Art

Add to all this the traditional acanthus style. I have seen some rather good portraiture (human and animal) and scenic type carving on saddles. Combination of styles (acanthus and floral) can also be quite interesting. Then you get to motorcycle seats where anything goes. Some of the "rock carvings" by the old masters (leather) are quite intriguing and sexually hilarious. Art

It is hard to tell without looking at the other side, but I would venture to say they are burr rivets. The one on the bottom looks like it has been "domed". This is done with a special setting tool from Bob Douglas through Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. There are about three sizes of these copper rivets, some available at Tandy, but Weaver is a really good source for them. There are also ones made of solid brass, also available at Weaver primarily. The brass ones are a bugger to set but they have a rounded head so you don't have to dome them. Also check with Kevin at Springfield Leather as he will have most of this too. Art

Cobra 5550, Singer 31-15 or greater, Singer 110w125 or so. Art

Hi Archer, I'm located in the Indian Head area. We also have some active archery clubs in the area, mostly hunting focused. Art

You need to find a shop that does orthotics, orthopedic footwear, etc. They will have to outsole, midsole, and insole material you will need. You can purchase product from Southern or Panhandle Leather, or a finder in your area; there are a few left in larger metropolitan areas. But Southern is huge and has everything you would need. If you are just looking to make one pair, an orthotics place might be willing to help you, or the Crispin Colloquy can be a lot of help. Art

Weaver has in the past had a relationship with Tandy. I have actually received product from Weaver labeled Tandy. I don't know if this is currently the case as for the last several years the products have been brass and well made. OTB products are very very good; most that I use are Belgian. There is not a lot wrong with buying quality products from China if you can find them, particularly if you can't get them in the US. Any product can be made cheaply, but it is mostly at the cost of quality. Tandy seems to be trying to prove this single-handedly. Art

Try Sheridan Leather Outfitters in Sheridan WY, it's about 760 miles one way, so not a day trip. Call Luke for leather. They can be trusted to give you just whaat you need without having to go there. You MUST go to a Tandy to pick out leather, it is the only way (other than chaos theory) that you will get what you want. You need to tell whomever that you are doing BIG areas and need NO defects, that is important to you, not so much to someone doing wallets, and they won't know if you don't tell them. Sheridan, Springfield, Hide House, Weaver, and Goliger can pretty much be depended on to follow your instructions. Art

I can't say that I covered my costs for the two days plus travel and lodging. At the prices things were going for (often at or over retail) there was just no advantage. Leather, smalls, and machines were Cray Z. One deep throat thickness gauge went for $160, a set of about 150 stamping tools in a leather case with a lot of mileage on it went for right around $2000. That is $13 per tool and they were split 70/30 lettered/non-lettered. I'd like to say it got better as they ran out of money, but they didn't seem to run out. I can't see going again unless they change the format and spread it out some and maybe go to three days and a single auction format. However, if you can, attend this auction once and make the decision for yourself. Art

You can use almost "any" leather to upholster furniture. Really, you need to determine if you want "look", or "wear". Or Both. From the "look" side, there is bonded leather. It is made-up of a leather slurry (like sausage) that is attached to a synthetic mesh backing. They then put a nice "finish" on it. It is put-up in rolls much like vinyl. It looks good and is very easy to handle and sew. Chrome tanned leather is real leather, usually in hides which will either be sides of full skins. You can get this product in MANY colors, finishes, animals, and thicknesses, and imprinted or embossed versions are available. Last but not least is the most durable and beautiful of them all, vegetable tanned. Tanners will split this leather in anywhere from 2oz to 12oz (or sometimes more) thicknesses. I would recommend getting some samples of any leather to see how it works. Veg tanned is about the hardest to work in a given thickness. The #304 cigar chair should be easy, even with 4-6oz veg tan and even if you have never done something like this before. Looking at the design, you won't even have to sew anything and you can use staples or tacks (don't use brads). Best bet is to call Springfield Leather and tell them exactly what you are doing so they can help you with it. They can do everything from providing leather to cutting the leather for you (you need to provide a pattern). Art

I think just air off your compressor will be enough. It is what is used on big sail/canvas/sunbrella machines. We use the air coolers (they blow cold air through thermal expansion) on our machine tools, especially for carbide tools which we run very fast. They work great, but use a really significant amount of air; you need a really big compressor system to use them. So just pipe some plain compressed air from your compressor and forget the coolers. Art

An insole is going to be 10-12 irons, around 1/4 inch or a little less. The elephant I have is not even 1/2 that and chrome tanned. It would however make nice uppers, but you would need bigger pieces. It is tough as hell, you can't even scratch it with a fingernail. Art