Art

The auction was not executed well. I think they had way too much in too small an area and not enough time. There were way too many people for the size of the area; very hard too see what was being auctioned even when previewed the prior day. Last but not least, there were too many Amish there. They are good folk, but need to get out more. The prices paid for obviously used equipment were over new item street price. For instance, a big Adler head only that looked like it was dragged up there with a logging chain, went for $4,000. They sell brand spanking new for $4,600. A well used Makita sharpener went for $360, again new retail. The first day was leather and webbing and rope and synthetics. Two auctions going on at the same time, no preview, most times a lot number and vague description, again, high prices, I mean CRAZY prices. I guess it was good for the auctioneers and the sellers, but we only bought a few things, not worth the trip expense, glad I didn't take the trailer too. I did enjoy talking with Paul Weaver and some of the other staff. J.Watt was there stamping, but I enjoyed talking with Nevada more, she was doing engraving. Art

Maybe you can get Reid to make you one, If not, Terry Knipshield also makes a fine skiver. Art

Great to see someone who knows what side to put the bevel on. I'll take it, let me know the how and where of payment. You cn send Paypal invoice to artvanhecke at gmail dot com if that is ok for you. Art

Your basic 1725 rpm buffer is the start point. Get the slower speed unit for leatherwork. You can get a unit like this and more on the Grizzly site but it is usually available from auto body shop suppliers too. Art

If you are buying Tandy and complaining about it, you have grown out of it. We all kind of start at Tandy, but in normal progression of skill level and even just basic curiosity, you should be moving on. We all need basic things, tools, leather, and supplies. Back in the '80s and 90's I could get decent product at Tandy, but in the 21st century their business model changed, they just didn't have what I needed. That's not good or bad, it is just the way it is. So suck it up and get on the phone. Some places to start: SLC -- Novice or experienced, this is a good supplier, carries darned near everything, if you can't find it, ask! Sheridan Leather Outfitters -- Vandy is the direct line into Bob Douglas' toolroom. good leather too. Brettuns Village -- I find some rather unique items there, if you have a use for them you may be in luck. Good tools too. Ohio Travel Bag -- best quality findings Weaver Leather -- They have everything. I buy veg or veg/retanned leather only from Horween, Wickett & Craig, and Hermann Oak, and special oak tanned products from Baker in England and JR in Germany. There are really good sellers of chrome tanned product all over the country. Hide House Hidecrafter SLO SLC Golliger Thoroughbred There are many others but I've used all of the above. For exotics I only use 2, Jerry van Amberg Eric Edrich (Hidecrafter in Houston) That should give you a start. Art Edited to add Zack White Leather in NC ~Johanna

I make them into snaps, but rivets can work also. Trim the case to the length you want your tabs to be in a lathe. The little hobby lathes do a good job of this, but I have done it in my 15". You could cut them off with a hacksaw in a vice too. Then use a dremel to remove the metal between the tabs. I wouldn't want to do a couple hundred one night. Art

Was the machine new when you purchased it, and what color is it? I have more than a few of these machines, and never a problem with any of them. I can sew 3/4" veg tan with mine without a problem and 1/2" sole bend without a problem. Before investing in a new machine, I would send the head back to Steve at Leather Machine Co in Ontario CA and have them put it in order. Steve should be able to send you packaging if you need it, but call him. Dave is also good if you can't get ahold of Steve. I can only assume your machine has a speed reducer, they need that if you are sewing heavy leather. I can't imagine the shop you bought it from would not be able to service it, but then that says something about them and if you should take it there again. Any industrial shop should be able to service that machine, or contact Steve if they need help. I've seen them fix real basket cases without a wimper. I'm not going to recommend you buy an Adler, I think you have the best machine for the money now and just need it fixed. Art

Well then, how much do you want for it, as is? And who did you buy it from? Art

This is a lightweight industrial, capable of 3/8" max, but I would have a hard time calling it a leather mchine. Thread 33 to 92 and no more. I think it uses a DBx1 neeedle which is available in leather point. Walking foot, no needle feed. Good for garment grades of leather 2 to 3 layers of 3-4oz, but with no needle feed you have to be aware of creep between layers. When leatherworking, it would be easy to abuse this machine. Art

Yes it is a highlead clone, it would be nice if it had a saftey clutch, but I wouldn't pass it up at that price. If you can see it and sew it off, more the better. For leather, I would replace the motor with a servo speed reduction motor. Art

If you are new to industrial machines, it is good to buy your first one from one of the dealers on this site, and get a new one if you can. If you buy a used industrial, it may very well have been used in an industrial setting, which is not a problem for the experienced, but can be for the inexperienced. Steve at Leather Machine Co. is near you in Ontario CA, give him a call and a visit; best to be near a dealer on your first machine. If one of the dealers (use only the ones on this forum as they work with leather machines and know how to set them up) has a used machine available, rest assured it will be properly conditioned and set up for leatherwork. Art

For what you will pay for a table and motor and the head (say $1600), you can get something like the 5110 for the same price, and brick and mortar advice and service. I have the 8110 which is higher quality and has needle feed but no reverse, and it works great. It is about $700 more, but worth it. I've seen Econosews in factories mostly, but don't know much about the machine line or quality. I do see them a lot at online discounters. Most of the advertisers here handle something similar. Art

These are Chinese made tools at less than $2 apiece, shipped. Need I say more. You will get what you pay for. When purchasing tools from eBay, try to purchase Craftools without the letter prefix. Additionally, purchase only the tools you need to accomplish your current or future projects, bevelers, cams, turnbacks, matters, thumbprints, flower centers, seeders, border stamps, and bargrounders. Geometrics if you are going that route. Allthe cutsy things like butterflys, animals, and the miriad of other fluff rarely get used. Then again, consider getting a few good tools from some of the custom makers, buy as you need. You can do a whole lot with just 10 or 20 good tools. Art

A Bottom feed Bell Skiver is probably the best bet. I still use a skiving knife for intricate stuff, but for long runs, the bell skiver is best. Bob Beard makes the best Skiving Knife, but I have one of Terry Knipschield's that is very good also. A good bleeding sharp head knife will work ok, but the real skiving knives are better. Art

Great work! However, it is a "three balled cat" and a "Cat o' Nine Tails". Art

If you can think a little bigger, there is a Ludwig 205-370 (like the Adler) in Marketplace for $1200. These are good machines, the arm is a little bigger around but not much more than the 227. They can be adjusted to sew small thread like 69, but really are better for 138 and up. Art

Maybe if you sew a lot of wet leather, but I just don't. Makers like Juki, Adler, Pfaff, and many others do not provide stainless steel feet, they would if they thought it necessary. Chroming steel feet is good maybe, but all the old machines used steel, just mild steel. With today's modern materials, some form of plastic may be better, but making it sturdy enough for high pressure applications might be a consideration. Stainless is prone to stress risers where sharp angles are employed which is another reason not to use it in repetitive high speed motion applications. But if you sew a lot of wet leather, then maybe it should be a consideration. Art

By carp leather, do mean the scaly fish skins we call "Dragon Dick" in the trade? Or is it some other type of animal tannage? For the DD, I would recommend binding the edge, but if not possible, glue well and sew close to the edge. You might try a hot iron and Yankee wax to get a smooth edge. Art

I use Ron's edgers, most by Ron himself but a few newer ones by Toby. They are all excellent, albeit expensive. The Montana edgers are great for thin leather like 2-3 oz. Art

AYN, You don't have to pay for information here, it is given freely. On this forum, it is somewhat of an insult to ask to pay. That being said: If you are just looking for a shoe jack commonly used in the shoe repair business, there have been several factories that have went to auction in the past year and a lot of that stuff is available on eBay. If you eBay search "vintage cobbler tools" you will get a pile of hits like this. I have a few like this and didn't pay a lot for them. I also have ones that are stand-up versions. If you want a lasting jack that you put a last on, then those are custom, and the only ones that I know of are made by Dick Anderson at Thorneapple River Boots. Dick also makes some of the best inseaming awls around. I have about everything Dick makes and recommend all of it. Art

Maybe you have seen a pegging wheel for shoes or boots, sometimes these are adjustable double wheels. Currently, there aren't any double stitch markers manufactured of which I have knowlege. Current practice would be to set multiple stitch grooves with an adjustable stich groover like the Douglas Versa-groover and then run a stitch marker or overstitch wheel in each groove. Be careful on curves as there is a difference in the curve radius and hence the stitches will misalign. Art

Bob Beard can make unique stamps, I have several. He will make what you want. You will wait a year, and pay more than $80 but it will be uniquely yours. Art

Any sewing machine repair can get you whatever you need. Most suppliers don't service the general public, Superior is not exception, you'll have to fill out a full credit app. Art

The thing about clones is they are clones. If you need a clone part, you can order the part for the "real" thing from Superior or other large supplier. Nowadays, I don't think many manufacturers cut their own screws. Their are companies that live to cut screws and can produce quality product far cheaper than the sewing machine manufacturer. Singer, on the other hand, MUST have had a screw division (not sales but it is tempting), remember they were in Scotland and the US, last bastions of the English system. Art

It just depends on what it is. If it is Bridle, Harness, or Latigo, then results will not be as desired. However, if it is just drum dyed veg tan, it should case and you should be able to carve/stamp it. If it is thick, then it might not have been "struck through", which means the dye didn't get all the way through to the center. In this case, carving and stamping might bring-up the native color. This can be fixed by airbrushing some dye over parts that have been brought up. Cut off a small piece and try to case and tool it, you'll know soon enough. Art