Art

Well, who are you, where are you, and what weight are your bags and pouches. It kind of sounds like handbag weight, 4 to maybe 6 oz leather, and not messenger bags of 8 to 10 oz. Got to know all this stuff before we tell you where to go. Off the top of my head, a Cowboy 277R might be up your alley. About $1700 new. There are just tons of used machines out there for more or less money. Some of the used machines are in less than the greatest condition. Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial and see what he may have. There are other dealers, but you can trust Bob, and he knows the leather business. Try eBay for 153w101 or 153w102 to get an idea on prices, although be careful buying there. Art

We are here when you need us. This is a great site for info. Art

You will either like the Bissonette or you will like the grooved, you seldom like both. Barry's edgers are very good, personally I like Ron's edgers better. Older edgers like Gomph and Osborne (C.S. and H.F.) were used in the harness trade and tend to run big, #1, #2, and #3 being the most useful sizes, #3 or even a #4 for saddle and bridle work. I've used a lot of edgers over the years, but I found Ron's and I liked them so much, I bought a whole set; expensive, but I have never regretted it. Edgers may not seem that important at first glance, but they can be used a lot of different ways if you just think "can I use an edger to do that". Bruce Johnson has a bunch of edgers at reduced prices, even some of Ron's. All of his stock looks to be in very good condition. I buy from him often and have not been disappointed. Art

Hi Don, The 441 clone like the Cowboy 4500 or such will do just fine. Many holster maker on leatherworker.net use one of the machines. A good machine that will sew most anything. Art

Hi Don, This really depends on if 7/8 inch is 1. An all day everyday thing 2. Once in a while, but usually less 3. usually 7/8 and below but occasionally 1" 441s and Clones are usually "out of the box" made for 3/4". Dealers who service the leatherwork trade make them better suited for 7/8". Campbell machines are capable of whatever they are set-up for, within reason, say 1 1/4 max, and if you are going to be doing 7/8" all day, get a high lift. Campbell-Randall is a full service sewing machine company that remanufactures older needle and awl machines and all sorts of leatherworking machinery. Good folks to deal with, I have a Campbell lock stitch machine. I've never really needed the high lift. If I ever need the high lift, I would send mine back and have it converted, or maybe get a Cyclone. I'll say this now, my Campbell stays set-up for 5-cord linen thread. Never changes. If you plan on doing all sorts of things, you will be better off with a Cowboy 4500 or other 441 clone that can push up to 7/8" when needed but is easy to change thread etc., well relatively easy. The 441s tend to like 277, 346, and 415 (some of them) and 138 sometimes. If you do any production leatherwork, and by production I mean custom production, not a factory, you have to learn to design your work and workflow around the machines you have to eliminate to the extent possible working on them or changing thread, especially sizes. This is why you most times end up with two or a few sewing machines. Changing colors can cause the occasional problem as the different colors come off the spool differently and cause tension problems. So the less changes the better. I have two Landis Model 12 curved needle machines that have black and white, that probably hasn't changed since they were made (good thing I have two because you do forget how to thread them). So let us know what you intend to use your machine for so we can give you better advise. Art

It is all a matter of how much energy can be transferred to the amount of design you are trying to transfer, and the depth of impression you want. Everything depends on the amount of rock solid surface you are stamping on, the weight of striking device, and the amount of energy applied. If you want to get technical, mother earth + how big your stamp + how big your hammer + how big you = depth of impression. I have a delrin stamp for boy scout neckerchief ties made by Jeff Mosby (Grey Ghost) that I can stamp on my 288 lb Hay-Budden anvil which sets on a 3 foot cube base of end cut hardwood that I wack with a 96oz Barry King Maul. It works on the anvil and also on an old GI desk (built like a brick outhouse) with a hundred lb surface plate on top. My makers mark gets like treatment although it is tool steel (Infinity Stamps Inc.). Irresistible force + immovable object = good impression. That being said, I have a three ton arbor press that does a pretty good job too. If you get your stamp maker to make you a press stamp (short full width stamp), you can use them in a hydraulic press easier if you have one and they also work in the arbor press. Don't get the press stamp if you plan on whacking it with a mallet or hammer, your fingers may end-up casualties. Art

Hi again Jackie, OTB as we call you, is definitely the go to place for easy to find and those not so easy to find hardware supplies and findings. Not many seem to know that they also have TOOLS. The ting about OTB is the quality of the products. Rivets in most any configuration and color, and their Jiffy rivets actually stay together! Hardware is and plating is durable and beautiful. Prices are fair for the quality. But then you already know that. Art

Hi Jackie, Sorry to hear about Paul, he was just in his early 60s, sorry to see him go. Give his friends, family, and everyone there our condolences from the crew and members here at leatherworker.net. Art

Sand off the fuzzies, and buy decent leather in the future. Good leather won't have all that crap on the back. The paint will not paste down the straggly stuff, you have to trim it close (sharp sandpaper will do) and maybe put some gum tragacanth on it to get it to lay down. Then paint it. Art

You can paint it with a thicker quality edge paint like the Giardini that Lekoza sells, possibly using an iron to open the leather to accepting the edge, roll or double roll the edge, bind the edge, or finish the edge with a corded welt. Art

Ok.........The link goes to the catalog, you just have to go to page 253. No need to send for the catalog. Art

I have it, not bad for the price, used a $20 coupon on it. Not much space in it, and it is not built even a little bit as well as a Gerstner. I tend toward the Craftsman and higher dollar Harbor Freight Roller Cabinets. I was so disappointed by my last Craftsman that I won't recommend any but their most expensive, their quality has just taken a nose-dive in the last 5 years. The 72 inch Harbor Freight Cabinets are the best IMHO and the 56 next. The 72 inch is a bit unwieldy in anything but a large shop. I don't put tool boxes on top, I use them as workbenches. Art

Is it an old Barnsley, a new Barnsley, or an "in the fire" Barnsley? Don Carlos knives are made by Herder in Solingen, all their tools are excellent, the Spade trademark is for European tools of high carbon steel. After sharpened, extremely good knives for the price. I have no clue about Ivan. Bill Buchman made wonderful knives. I have many and the ones I really like are the ones he did for Verlane Desgrange. There were a few of them made in two configurations. they have an BBXV and BXV2 as their numbers. Terry Knipschield makes really good knives. I wish he made replica's if the BBXV and BXV2 patterns. I have a few of his knives and they take a bleedingly sharp edge (no kidding) and hold it well. There are a few good pics in this topic. Art

Click the Link? Art

Cotton cord, parachute cord, poly, nylon, rope. They should have what you need at the hardware store or JoAnn, Michael, Hobby Lobby etc. Art

Dan, OTB Catalog P214, p.253 onward Art

Yes there is, Capsaicin, there are other less fiery brands like Critter Ridder or something like that. Art

Go to about 3:40 in this video: Any Questions? Art

Bobbin size is sometimes a consideration with cylinder arm machines. Unless you are doing some small or tight clearance application, get the biggest bobbin you can. Don't go out and buy a Campbell or Randall just to get a big bobbin, there are other reasons for buying those machines in addition to their large bobbins. Art

Kid, Bob and Tom were talking about copper burr rivets. They are sufficiently strong for the most enduring applications. However, I have some that are Brass, which you might be talking about. These are the devil to clip to length, and about equally hard to peen. They do however have a much nicer looking head although it is a little smaller than a copper rivet, you can set a burr on the rivet before putting it into place and setting the capturing burr (the one you use normally). You might need a Dremel or really big pliers to clip them off, I use heavy duty compound pliers and they are still hard to clip. Art

Since you are in San Antonio, I suggest you call ahead and go to Yoakum Texas to check out Campbell-Randall sewing machine company. They are a provider and refurbisher of all kinds of leather machinery and can probably fill in a lot of gaps in your knowledge. If you get one of their rebuilt machines, it will be as good or better than new. Art

It looks like what is commonly called a GA5 dash something and a R for reverse. I used to think these were made by one factory, but I have seen them under so many brands, model numbers, and color schemes that I am not too sure anymore. The price being asked for the used machine (even with the home grown stand) is what a new one would cost. So why buy the old one? Art

For straps, I would recommend you use leather from the back. When you get up around the shoulder, the leather tends to be a bit loose and or stringy. Resolene helps as will most acrylics, but I just don't put them on anything; it's just not the look I want or like. When was the last time you saw a shiny cow? Acrylics don't flex very well, and if they crack, they will eventually flake off. Let's face it, they are plastic, and if you want plastic leather, try biothane. Sno-seal is a pretty good idea, as is Montana Pitchblend, and Skidmore's. You can probably interchange them and find Skidmore's in some biker shops. Sno-Seal is the cheapest, and it works. It is great that it is available a Wally World, and you might be able to catch a quick wrestling match while you are there. If you get stringy back leather, that's on the tanner and the cow, if you buy quality leather, you should expect the back to be smooth. If properly cut and finished, there should be nothing to be stringy. If the deed is done and you have a stringy piece, level it off with sandpaper and paste it with a food grade gum like tragacanth. Overall, the leather will wear better than any finish, and the grain side will wear better than the flesh. Doubled and Stitched straps are the ultimate sign of quality, even if you have to double 2 or 3 oz to meet design criteria, you will have a 4 oz or 6 oz strap with twice the strength of just a 4 or 6 oz single strap. Art

Lets see, you tried Pecard's and that didn't work, then Bick4 and that didn't work. If you add Skidmore's, Dr Jackson's and Montana Pitchblend to that list you would have the top 5 products used on leather Lazarus projects. Leather Honey has been around a while, but I have never used it. I would be very interested in how it performs. Art

With your price cap, there isn't much of a selection there but the 441. You could maybe find a 153w101 or 102, but they might have a lot of mileage on them. If you get a used machine, get it from a dealer, and I would start with Ron at Raphael Sewing in Montreal. Ron will talk with you and work with you. Art