Art

A 441 is like an older Harley, if there ain't oil on the foot pedal, you don't have enough. The one I do blankets with runs 850spm. You just want to make sure there is plenty of oil. Art

Call Steve, he can probably walk you through it. Art

I'll give you somewhere to start. Singer 31-15 or 31-20 or better with a roller foot. Cobra 5550BB Singer 52 post machine Southern Leather Panhandle Leather Watch Lisa Sorrell videos on YouTube. Crispin Colloquy Art

I have been using Master cements for a long while. I have also used Barge and a few other formulations. The solvents used in these products have small molecules (relative to other hydrocarbons) and high vapor pressures, which means simply that they evaporate quickly, which is what you want. These solvents will escape from almost any container, even the ones they are shipped in. It's their job and they are good at it. This is why a solvent or "thinner" is sold separately for most commercial glue products. This solvent is usually particular to a particular glue. Master All-Purpose thinner ONLY works on Master All-Purpose Cement. There is a separate thinner for their rubber cement. I have the Teflon glue pots and the bottles that Springfield sells. I also have small narrow tip squeeze bottles that I get from Art suppliers. These are almost invaluable in some constructions where any brush is just too big. So at the end of the week, put some thinner in the bottle and shake it up. You can't get the glue too thin, or you can but it doesn't matter as you can always apply a second or third coat till it dries shiny. Art

The only way I have found to cover thoroughly with dye is to immerse the leather in the dye. This is a little hard to do for a background. With really dark dyes, getting a result that won't splotch over time is a little tricky. Even when I flood dye a piece, I let it dry, buff it to get excess dye off, and then coat it with Lexol conditioner with a little dye mixed into it, not a whole lot but enough to color it. Even if you do that, the leather is so compressed where you beveled that the result may be less than optimal in those areas. The real solution for me is to use acrylic paint. It covers completely and evenly. A lot of your top level leather artists use it. See if you can get Bob Beard's cd on coloring, it sure opened my eyes. Art

I have found that sand, straw, or deer is the color you want for stitching natural. I have seen it at Steve's (Cobra at top of page). Art

Almost any 110 v machine will run on 12v with an inverter. For the very space conscious, a machine like this might be a consideration. I have a problem with the portability part of it as the machine is very heavy and when you add the battery and motor, it becomes in my opinion too heavy. It is a 441 subtype, so everything is standard parts except the shafts. If it was my druthers, I would get the machine on a stand. If you REALLY NEED the portability, it might be better to just put your machine on the stand in the back of the pickup. Also, the 16.5" 441 clone would be a better choice IMHO. Art

I have had both, the Tippmann works fine, but is not any type of fast and alignment is a bit tricky. I have never had a problem with any die in the Cobra, and a couple of times I did some gang clicking (multiple layers) with pretty hard leather and the only problem was getting the leather out of the die. I have a 25 ton air hydraulic press (home made) but have never had to use it for die cutting. I imagine you could make a die it would have trouble with, but not in my experience. If you are worried, send me a die and I will test it for you. Art

Hi Nobby, For stitching !" or so, a 441 clone set up for leather and modified for in excess of 1" lift would be a good bet. Some of the suppliers in the banner ads can supply the 1" modification. These machines work with either Polyester or Nylon left hand threads. Another option is a Campbell machine which is hook (needle) and awl and can sew an inch in the standard configuration and a bit more in the high lift version. The Campbell would be able to use linen thread in addition to synthetic if you need it for restoration work. Art

Hi Rod, There is a screw on the back of the machine right about where the riser (that connects the top and bottom of the machine) comes up. Smooth feed dog and feet will help too. Check with Bob at Toledo. Too little pressure on the feet will cause the material to flag. Art

It sounds like the midsole is intact or can be buttered with some cork. This is just a matter of taking the heel off, grinding down the outsole, and putting on a new outsole and heel. Your cobbler should be able to advise you on a good outsole and heel. Sixty Bucks. Art

Handles from the "Bear Man" fit the Douglas awls perfectly. They come in a variety of sizes and have a collet especially for the Douglas Awl Blades. The Douglas handles are nice but a tad pricey, the Bear Man handle fits my hand a little better as when I bought it at a show (IFoLG 2012), I had a few different sizes to choose from. For harness awls, I have both and use the Bear Man most of the time. For Inseaming awls (you use these to sew the insole to the welt and upper), I prefer those made by Dick Anderson of Thornapple River Boots. Art

IMHO NO. I have owned one of those and it was a fine machine in it's day. In my younger days, I and a few friends would take on moving one of those, but it was a task. Parts for it will be a problem also. For a similar amount, you can buy a 441 clone (Cobra Class 4, Cowboy 4500) that is better than the 97 in its prime. The parts for the 441 and it's clones are readily available today as the machines are still in production. Options like needle positioning motors make them truly "Dream Machines". Call Steve Tayrien at the Leather Machine Company - 866-962-9880 or Bob Kovar at Toledo to get the full scoop on their machines. I have most of the Cobra machines and they work flawlessly. Art

The 95 machines were high speed fabric sewing machines. Drop feed only, 3000spm. Art

Get a 441 Clone set-up for leather, about $2600 + 250 shipping, Cobra Class 4 or Cowboy 4500. A used Singer 153w101 is an excellent mid range cylinder arm machine that you can find in decent shape for $300-$400. You might have to change out the motor for $160 additional. This machine does not have reverse, but they did without it for a lot of years. If you want a flat bed, the Singer 111w155 (or other high numbers) is comparable to the 153w101 except not a cylinder arm. Almost any imaginable foot set has been made for these machines (153 and 111) except roller feet, and are still readily available. That seems to be in your budget vicinity. Art

Need more info. First, what type of construction? All Glue, Welted midsole? Did you wear out the midsole or the insole? Welted outsole, no midsole? There are a lot of different ways they are put together and how you wore all of that out is going to determine the price. Go to a real cobbler, not one of the ones in the mall, they just know grind and glue at the mall. With a good pair of soles and heels, $70, but take them in for an estimate. Art

For me, 69 or 92 were the best working threads using a 20/125 needle. You can try 138, and use 69 or 92 in the bobbin to make it last longer. You would use a 22/140, 22.5/150, or a 23/160 needle for that. I have it loaded with 69 and an 18/110 and don't stray from that very much. The patchers weren't really designed for heavy sewing, and I do that with another machine. It is very handy for sewing a patch on a sleeve, and 69 is just fine for that. Art

Randy, I have never had trouble getting that from my Allstate Agent, the one time he couldn't handle it he arranged it through another agent. As I remember, event insurance ran around $50-$100, for other things it is way less. Insurance is like gambling, they make odds on a claim and that's what you pay. When I wanted to sail to Bermuda, they insured the round trip for around $200. Any commercial insurance agent can handle it, they cover you through insurance companies that handle whatever you need handled. A local agent is where you start, someone you know is even better. You going to do the Denver Market? Art

Ok Rick, Send me a Paypal Invoice and your money is on the way. Don't forget shipping and ins. Art

If holes are too big, close them up after sewing with by slicking them with a large piece of smooth metal like a finishers hammer. Art

Start over. New needle. Thread groove on the left. Correct needle size for thread. One size smaller thread in the bobbin if you can, otherwise same as top. Thread machine according to the video. Make sure bobbin thread comes off bobbin counter clockwise. Make sure there are no burrs on the needle, needleplate, the hook, or the exterior of the shuttle race case. Make sure you are bringing the thread tension lever all the way to the top before pulling the work out; and NEVER BACK UP. Art

DM, With that thread, a 200 is the correct needle, a 180 will work with the occasional thread break, but a 160 is simply asking for trouble. Just change to a 200. Art

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=139ea34c9378f478&mt=application/pdf&url=https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui%3D2%26ik%3D4221ba9fa4%26view%3Datt%26th%3D139ea34c9378f478%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dsafe%26zw&sig=AHIEtbQ6Hv22n8Ln_JDHfDfSGeyerdtYuQ

Worked great, thanks Deb Art

OUT is pretty good stuff, and +1 on the dry cleaner after that. Last resort, put it in a large box with an Ozone generator. After the last resort, disassemble it, make patterns, build a new one, and burn the old one in the back yard. Art