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KAYAK45

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Everything posted by KAYAK45

  1. Silver pens.! Mark and wipe off leather.
  2. HAHA hahum ha hunm! Only 300 stitches per minute. Hahahum! That's not a limitation for me. Thanks for the input.
  3. Are you looking to get a using machine out of this, or a work of art? If a work of art have it cleaned, powder coated, painted and photographed. Otherwise, soak it in diesel fuel..clean it as suggested...and use it! Just an idea!
  4. Sorry! did not mean to be harsh. I never heard of them myself. But then again I'm not in the sewing machine business am I? Are they a sponsor here on the forum????? Kevin
  5. I've got a really nice 111W155 that I up-graded with an 11 inch hand wheel to slow it down a touch. I have a new post here with questions about trading it, the cost that is, for a Campbell. The Singers are really nice machines. Mine might come up for sale in the next week, with extra needles, ETC. Probably gonna want ...say $500. Complete with xtras. Kevin
  6. Kevin. Question about you comment about "unless your doing production work". Yes I want to do shop production work making belts and holsters. You have used the Campbell. Why not for "production", at least at the individual level? I can buy any machine I want, but...I'm using my retirement savings. Would you suggest a different approach? Another Kevin
  7. Hi, Ken. Have no idea about that Servo. Maybe good, maybe not. I put the Servpro from Bob on my 31-15 and could not be happier! Good idea to look at the servo motor for your needs. Now do you want to be a PIONEER on E-BAY or just solve your problems, EH? Call Bob... or be a PIONEER..they have ARROWS in there backs? Your Call. Kevin
  8. Mine is not a Union Lock, it,s a production Union Chain! If I had the lock I wouldn't trade. You are correct. And yes I am still a few short..say.. $3,000. I can do that. Kevin
  9. My wife laid down the law and in order to get a Campbell I need to sell my 111W155 and my beloved CB 4500. Both are great machines, but I cannot afford all the great machines of the world. Or that is what my wife says. Should I do it?? When I bought the CB I was banished to the basement for a week. Fair trade! Worth it. Now I what a better stitch and the Campbell is my choice. What do you guys and galls think is a fair trade here? Kevin PS: I would also sell my Singer 251-3 and my Union Stitch to do this. I still would have my 31-15, servo motor and roller foot.
  10. My new stamps arrived today, and they are GREAT. Those rope images are now very clear and I can't wait to start a project. I also got four other stamps and..WOW. Quality stamps might (maybe?) even make my work acceptable. I now have the Hackbarth set, Over 30 Kings and half dozen or so Watts. Well I can dream, right? Kevin
  11. THIS NEEDS TO BE PINNED, IF ANYTHING DOES! Kevin
  12. I have no idea what a 31-15 is worth. All I know is I paid $70, for the head only. Great machine!
  13. Try your thumb. It is variable, out of the way when you don't need it, and it's renewable, at least to an extent. Kevin
  14. What kind of template?... or how else to sew a loop stitch in a belt and get a uniform pattern.? How do you do it?
  15. So you started with a "custom" belt. Then YOU worked out the machine foot lines. Now YOU have to burnish the edges. I WONDER WHY A REALLY GOOD CUSTOM BELT COSTS SO MUCH??? Go ahead and finish the edges and you will have a nice belt. Kevin
  16. If you have this question now, before it ships, call Bob. He will let you know if it's the right machine for your use. You can indeed trust his answer! Me, I love my CB 4500, but then I don't try to sew light leathers. Kevin
  17. I would but: A. I'm old and don't have a camera. B. I'm old and don't know how to post a picture. C. I don't have either stamp yet and am not getting smooth stamp. D. See post of Bruce' above (#6) and notice GROOVES at the tips. Now think of the same stamp smooth, no grooves. Kevin
  18. I just now talked to the Barry King folks and they added the ROPE cuts to the rope stamp for me...no charge. I wanted to post to let you all know the standard stamp is smooth, but they add the grooves when asked. Kevin
  19. All you really need is a GOOD awl. 40# fishing line is a great thread lead. See lots of threads here on threading and using. No need to buy a needle. The fork idea for stitch length is RIGHT ON, just get a fork with tines of 6/7 per inch and use 7 cord or equivalant. Your home free. Bees wax make the awl work best. I used all the above before buying a stitch machine, still should have stuck to hand sewing. Kevin
  20. Really a great start. I wish I had done that good with my first Tandy set! Now you want some ides? With you swivel knife work start out with a light cut and end the same. Kind of like you don't want to hurt the leather. Keep your knife "straight up" !!!! Keep trying new things with your set. Maybe try playdoe as a tryout! Good work indeed for a start. Kevin
  21. My explanation was to first get your stitch to the desired position by raising your bar and either short/long stitching to get to the desired "Turn Point". Next, with your needle still in the material raise you foot either by hand or better by your kneel bar. Turn you material 90 degrees, drop your foot and continue your stitch.
  22. It's a two step thing. One, with the needle down lift your foot and adjust your stitch length, by raising your foot to actually where you want it. Then, on the next stitch, with the needle down, on the next stitch raise your foot then turn the material, Stitch once, twice, whaterver. where you want it. Raise your foot and turn you material to you new line and sew on! If not clear keep asking.! Kevin
  23. Oh yeh! How big is a 100 gram or whatever size roll? I'm in the !USA!.
  24. I'm sorry, but i don't convert very well. How does that convert to, say, size 69 thread that I might actually want?. Sorry I'm an American! Kevin!
  25. OK I'll bite. Where did you get the leather and what was the description? I mite have a use for it!
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