Tree Reaper

You might be better off to dilute the Tan Kote. Tan Kote should wipe the excess off dye. Did you buff the dye? Was that Tandy leather? When I dye I remove the excess with a damp sponge.

Eco-Flo Gel Antique Saddle Tan. Your walnut is probably darker but don't panic if it's looks too dark some of it will come off when you wipe on the tan kote. Just don't let the dye sit on the leather too long before you wipe it off, you can always reapply if you want it darker.

I used neatsfoot on the entire piece (in moderation).

Wizcrafts has been sewing for 120 years and he buys thread from Bob.

I used neatsfoot oil on that and let it sit for a couple of days. Put the dye on heavy and make sure it fills the impressions, wipe off the excess with a damp sponge then a clean paper towel before it dries. Let it dry then put on a thin coat of tan kote then let that dry. Paint the letters, a few times and then seal with resolene or super shene. It's better if you can spray the finishes on, you won't get streaking.

Bob contributes to keep this site going.

Harry; Give cowboy Bob a call, he'll help you. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html

I wouldn't wash it unless you have a way of tumbling it because it will be stiff as a board and just to mention warm water will shrink it. I think you're stuck with it unless you can air it out or try and neutralize it somewhat with a spray on the flesh side. They use anything from urine to brains to all kinds of chemicals to tan hides with. Something like this might work if you spray it on. http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Cat-Urine-Smell

Hi Diane; Is this the result you are looking for?

I just made one out of wood to hold the letters.

It's an additional expense but once you acquire a good edge a buffing machine is a quick way to touch it up. I bought an 8" Enco buffer and I use it every time I'm doing leather work. It takes seconds to get a good edge back on punches and knives.

You can hand stamp individual letters or press complete words providing you have a jig to hold the individual letters and a large enough press. I use a wooden fence to keep the letters straight.

I was thinking that too but 45oz. is a pretty good weight. I've had problems with every one of those punches , they take quite a bit of work to get them close to cutting. J, if you crack that table don't even stop to pack, just get out and don't stop running for at least two days.

Bluesman; I'm going to try Fiebing's Dura Edge and mask along the top to get a nice even line, that may be the answer. I've never used it and don't have any but it's worth a try.

If you get on the Springfield site and search for wallet kits you'll see plenty. They come with a pattern to follow but just use your own. The leather is a blank canvas ready to carve.

You can use the tip of the emery on an angle to to touch up the inside, emery paper or a smaller diamond bit but you really need to get the burr off that develops on the inside from sharpening the outside. The dremel emery will put a nice polish on it.

My take on it is, it is stampable latigo. You can use it for anything.

That was a success, almost antiqish looking. Looks great, thanks for sharing your results.

It will sharpen, I've sharpened my fair share of Osborne punches. One of those little emery bits from dremel will speed up the process. Touch up the inside as well as the outside of the punch. Once I get them sharp I use a buffing wheel to keep them that way. You'll be forever trying to get an edge on them with a stone. For a base I use poly board on top of granite.

Look at buying a 10 ton shop press, you can use it for clicking or embossing. This is what I use, they come on sale once a year so you just have to keep an eye out for a deal. http://images.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/83/838/8382/8382756.jpg?_v=2cb8ebcc-e8e3-46c3-a847-f059c66ccd76

Osborne is last on my list of tool manufacturers, they don't sharpen anything they sell and they don't have any customer support when you have a problem with their product. Not saying I wouldn't purchase another Osborne tool but only if I can't find another supplier for it first.

It's going from 8 oz. to 4 oz. then back to 8 oz. I was stitching 7 oz. leather nicely and then tried sewing the 4 oz. on the wallet and the tension wasn't even close. After trying that three times I removed the thread and used the needle for an awl and will hand stitch this one but I'll have to play around with it for the next one.

Burning the edge doesn't work, I just tried it. Where the white stitching changes to red there is a difference in thickness which can mess with the thread tension. On inlays you wouldn't have that as it stays constant.

When sewing a wallet with the machine do you have to compensate for the thickness between the wallet interiors and the 1 inch space on the wallet back? The difference between the layered interior and the thin wallet back in the center is 1/8 of an inch on the interior compared to 1/16 of an inch on the wallet back. I have an iron so I'll check the edging out on some scrap stingray.

It will burnish but not that even. I'm wondering if they used an iron on it. Are you hand stitching or machine stitching?