evandailey

Puritan needle/awl leather stitcher for sale. I purchased the machine from an auction where a sporting goods manufacturer had gone out of business. The machine had supposedly been in operation prior to their closing. I have not ever had it running as I have just had too many other projects and now having gone through a divorce and downsizing my house I need to purge a lot of these “someday I’ll get to it” projects. As best I can tell it has all its parts and the mechanism all turns freely. I’m not desperate to sell it by any means, so I’m not going to give it away. I’ll find a place to store it myself before I’d do that. What you see is what I have. $1,000 cash only. Serious offers will be considered. Located in Ona, WV in-person pickup is greatly preferred, but I can assist in preparing to ship if necessary and you pay the costs for crating materials. PM or email me at wvmotorider@gmail.com

Machine is now SOLD.

I will lower my asking price to $1250 for forum members. I now have the machine listed on eBay as well.

After much debate I have decided to try and sell my Ludwig 205-370 heavy duty cylinder arm leather stitcher. Due to time constraints from my job I am just not doing enough leather work anymore to justify keeping it and I could really use the room in my shop, so I will sadly let it go. This machine is an exact copy of the Adler 205-370 and operates just as smoothly as the actual Adler I tried at Weaver Leather. It is in fantastic condition and has no issues. If you're not familiar with this model, they will do everything one of the 441 / "Class 4" machines will do and run smoother while doing it. The machine includes a swing-away edge guide, an adjustable height table/stand, auto-bobbin winder, speed reducer, and a quality servo motor. I have a few different presser feet and feed dogs for it, several packages of needles, a few spools of bonded nylon thread, and several bobbins. I also have the Weaver timing device and digital copies of the Adler manuals. I am asking $1,500.00 for the machine and all the accessories I have for it. It would be a tremendous effort to break this thing down and crate it to ship because it's HEAVY and BIG, so I would really prefer local pickup. However, if someone is willing to pay for the effort required to ship it I am willing to do the work as a last resort. I am located near Huntington, WV. Feel free to ask any questions you have about it or if you'd like to see any other pictures. I am not in a bind or "needing" to sell it in any way, so I'm not going to accept any low-ball offers. If I can't get within reason of what it is worth for it, I'll just cover it up and keep it. If interested you can message me here, email me at evandailey@suddenlink dot net, or call or text at 304-six33-489two.

Bruce, do you (or anyone else) know how the Weaver Master series edgers compare with the ones you mention? I have two sizes of the Weavers as my only edgers, and while they do the job, I've always felt like I wished they cut a little better. I reshaped the tip on one and that helped some, but I'm not sure they will get as sharp as they need to for a really smooth cut. They do fine up until the leather starts to get a little soft, then they start to "push" the leather in front of the edge; even with regular stropping.

I have bought goat skins from hidehouse.com and used them successfully in bookbinding projects. Their prices were about half any that i found at sites designated as bookbinding suppliers. Bookbinders can be a bit of a elitist crowd and make claims that ONLY particular products (hides, glues papers, etc.) should be used. In some cases this is true, in some cases they just don't know that the same thing is often available from other sources, just marketed for different purposes. I can't help you on the hot foil stamping, sorry.

Something like 6.5 to 7.

I do not have any experience with any others except the diamond point ones from GoodsJapan (which eventually broke two prongs off), but I bought these sometime last year on a whim from this seller because of the price and I can't imagine much that a single pricking iron at 10x the price would do that these won't. Seem to be well made. The teeth come to very fine points (edges really) and seem to be properly hardened. I don't know that I'd go pounding them all the way through 2 layers of 8 oz. veg. tan, but that's not what they're for. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-Pro-Stitch-3-38mm-3-85mm-Leather-Chisel-Craft-Hole-Piercing-Punch-Tool-/331130001294?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4d18e2d78e

So what is your take away from the experiment? I can't really tell the quality of the result from the picture.

I don't know about the batch you got, but the bottle I have is NOTHING like any wall paper paste I've ever seen. Wall paper paste I'm familiar with is generally either Wheat Paste, Methyl-Cellulose, or some new ones are some kind of vinyl. None of those have any sort of lubricity like the Quik Slik has. Like I said, it was a guess based on the physical properties of the Quik Slik and the ingredients of the Astroglide. The information is worth what you paid for it.

I can't swear to it being the same stuff, but Quik Slik is remarkably similar to Astroglide "personal lubricant" which is available at most any drugstore. The ingredients of the Astroglide are "Purified Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Polyquaternium 15, Methylparaben, Propylparaben" and considering that Glycerin is one of the main ingredients I expect it would produce very similar results. I have not been able to find what the Quik Slik ingredients are. I've been meaning to pick up some Astroglide to test but have not had opportunity to do so because I forget everytime I'm at a drugstore. However the properties of the stuff are very distinct and it sure seems like the Quick Slik has nearly the same characteristics. I don't make any claims to it's viability as a substitute, but it might be worth an experiment.

Would you happen to have a pattern for this bag or some in-process photos? I am about to attempt making something similar myself and am trying to get my head wrapped around how all the different parts go together on different style bags. Specifically sequencing of stitching which seams first.

I recently purchased a LDPE Squeeeze bottle to experiment with because I was tired of buying and throwing away brushes, especially, when I'm usually only doing a little at a time. I will NEVER go back to brushes again for anything other than covering a large area. Put some Barge in the bottle, squeeze out a fine line on a seam or all over for bigger spots, and spread with a scrap of cardboard or a thin metal palette knife blade. No more messy threads on the Barge can. No more pitching brushes. If the glue gets a little thick in the bottle just add a little thineer and shake it up. Good as new. Here's the bottle I bought http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-BTL-RC-4-Polyethylene-Dispensing-Removable/dp/B00B51367M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386259678&sr=8-1&keywords=LDPE+Squeeze+Bottle

A Laminate Roller would be just the thing for what you're doing. They are actually made for, of all things, pressing contact cemented items together! The leverage you get multiplies the force much more than a bakers rolling pin. Lot's of different styles available at multiple places, including Lowes and Amazon. http://www.amazon.co...Laminate Roller

If you don't mind me tagging a secondary question onto yours, I'm curious how these bags are sewn on machines? I can more easily get my mind around doing it by hand (though the idea of sewing any bag by hand is not pleasant) than I can figure out how with that seam type they are getting to it with any type of machine I'm aware of. Especially a cylinder arm.

I think the Weldwood can calls for Xylene to thin and cleanup. The Xylol they sell at Lowes is the same thing.

If you're referring to the pic in the link I posted, look closer. The edges of each layer back where the wallet is sewn are skived and rolled back on themselves. That's why there's a distinct line between the two layers. If you're looking at the edges around the "mouth" of the wallet, I agree that those are only burnished.

I definitely think a burnished edge would be cleaner than the ones in the example I linked. Doing it that way, there is a clearly visible separation between the two layers that with much use will spread apart I'd wager. A good burnished edge will act and look like one solid piece. There is an application for rolled edges without a doubt. I just don't quite get the benefit of putting two of them back to back like that.

Actually, what the maker appears to be doing on these is skiving and rolling the edges of each layer back on itself, THEN putting the two layers together, gluing, and stitching. It is more obvious and visible in the pictures of the iPhone 4/4S sleeve shown here http://makr.com/ipho...eeve-saddle-tan I'm not sure why anyone would bother to go through the trouble of doing this when a properly glued, trimmed, and burnished edge would look and perform as good or likely better than this method.

I have a clone of the Adler 205-370 that I bought from a classified ad that a forum member here had listed back in the spring. It is a Ludwig LG-205-370 and from everything I can tell it is identical to the Adler. I've even bought a couple of small replacement parts and screws from Weaver that are Adler brand and they interchanged perfectly. I am still getting the feel for the machine as It has been a very busy summer for endeavors outside the leather shop. I don't know why we don't see more clones of these machines around. When I was doing research before buying it, Bobby at Toledo Industrial Sewing seemed quite shocked that I was getting it for the price that I did. I wish I lived near someone like Wiz who really knew the ins and outs of the machine so I could glean some in-person instruction. I think I pretty much fully understand the workings of it all because I took it nearly all the way apart to clean and adjust when I got it. I'd just like to get some direction on assesing stitch appearance issues and the tweaks to remedy them, especially when changing between combinations of leather thickness, needle size, and thread weight. I still can't seem to get the backside to not turn into a wadded up mess when I backstitch over 2-3 stitches.

Do you have any way to contact that guy directly apart from ebay? I hate jumping through their hoops just to communicate with someone.

Agree with all above. Without a doubt Katsass, you are one of the most valued members on this forum. Especially so by all us hand-stitching looneys. Glad to see you are back and doing well.

Is that black one a paddle holster or is that belt loop sewn down to the holster? The perspective in the picture may be fooling me, but it doesn't look like the stitching is contoured the same as the holster body.

No, it's High Density PolyEthylene. Not Polyeurethane.

He's using mat board from what I can tell in the video. It's readily available at art supply or framing shops. It can be a bit of a pain to cut, especially tight curves, but that works to your benfit as a pattern. Most thinner materials used for patterns are only good for marking around with a pen or pencil then cutting the line. This stuff you can follow with your knife.