Cumberland Highpower

When I handed the ATT to the crossing agent they just waived me through. Didn't even want to look at my rifles. I doubt it would be so easy today.

That's pretty awesome. Im left wondering a bit. With a VFD you probably shouldn't operate your motor under 400rpm (it might overheat). With the 4:1 reduction that would put you down to 100rpm. Of course the reducer might allow you to cheat the overheating part by allowing less load at low rpms so maybe you could push it lower under load? Have you had any trouble with overheating?

I wouldn't use the word addiction KGG, maybe more "appreciation" LOL Do you shoot in competition? Back in 2000 I joined the DCRA for one season out of curiosity and went up to Connaught Range to take part as a Civilian in the CFSAC. Surprisingly as luck would have it, I was disqualified during squadding. (I was 5 min late). Later on I found out it was a blessing of sorts...For the match I brought a pair of Colt AR match rifles, about 3k rds of ammo and a duffel bag of 20rd magazines along for the trip. The Rifles were legal of course, as I had applied for an "ATT" but the ammo circumstance and the bag of high cap mags were apparently not....Considering many of the participants were either RCMP or OPP I probably would have been in cuffs before the day was out! So I decided to go sight seeing around Ottawa for a day before heading back. Another stroke of luck! it's a real bummer what they did to you guys up there under Trudeau when it comes to firearms. It was bad enough before.

I like it. Wish I had a small shop in South OZ I could call my winter destination!! When I was still living at home years ago we had a shed set up kind of like that. I started making M1907 Match slings 30 years ago (!!!) and had it split 1/2 leather stuff, 1/2 reloading. Never reloaded one pistol cartridge in my life (unless you can somehow justify 444 is one). Loaded TONS of rifle rounds though. Always looked at Dillons but shot so few handguns it was easier to buy for those.

Might be some plates/feet/dogs that are smooth for that machine? There's a guy in Japan that makes wallets among other things and he uses Seikos with large knurled presser wheels. Wheel marks everywhere, but that's part of his trademark look. Just saying if you can't beat'em, maybe join'em?

I've used some Organ needles and they seemed to be overall a good needle. Schmetz are better overall but it is what it is. I've also bought them for hook and awl machines and in that regard they are just as good as any other.

Yeah that's kinda odd way to mark the packs. Organ says when you take a 135x17 needle and make it a TRI it becomes a 135x16TRI. I've seen that in their marketing material in the past. I guess they just want to put it all out there for those that might be a bit confused in what to purchase? !

Ok.

Hey I like that. I guess that's the "Slant 6" of the sewing world?

Saddle stitching mostly still exists for either of 2 reasons: 1) Novelty 2) Poverty. Novelty as in Hermes or other high end makers that are selling the work of skilled artisans and a high end/luxury item. Poverty as in you can't afford a stitcher, yet. Even when I hand stitch that rare item I don't use a saddle stitch anymore. (I use a speedy stitcher). the stitches look about the same and the strength is close enough. (Your hands are only going to last so long, don't wear them out fiddling with stitches). There are a very few times when saddle stitches are used by an equipped shop. Repair, someone just wants it done a certain way or reproduction of goods designed before machine stitching.

RockyAussie thanks for the reply. How do you find the overall ergonomics? Are these high posts comfortable machines to operate sitting down or do you feel your knees crowded and having to reach excessively upwards to work? Probably not as bad as I'm visualizing sitting here, but wanted to ask. Makes sense about the post offset.

I've somewhat decided that I'd like a new machine, one kind of new to me anyway. A tall post. I've used a couple more standard post bed machines, and to be honest I prefer them over most any type. I've never used a "tall" or "extra tall" version. All I've seen have the bobbin/hook offset to the left as opposed to the right of the post. I'm wondering why that is? So far I've only seen Chinese machines for sale, I wonder if there are any good used machines that are EU/Japanese made? I'd like to run 138, but could go as high as 207 on top at times. Any recommendations?

Are you wanting a machine to sew patches onto jackets or whatever, or are you looking for a cnc machine to sew/make patches? If you're sewin them onto jackets, a shoe patcher or a high post machine (or both) would be great.

I like it. Seems like it worked out pretty well.

Sometimes I wonder things like that. Sometimes thoughts like that are a bit off though. We always think in terms of ourselves, family run shops, etc. Truth is allot of these machines went into big production shops/factories. Nobody wants to dream of their personal machine being one of 20+ operated by punch clock, floor workers for 60+ years and then sold off at an auction in 1990..... My 16 has a brass tag on it that a factory installed on it generations ago. (not the factory tag) probably an inventory/property number. Of course nowadays that those machines are essentially "out to pasture" in small shops/hobby shops that would fit pretty well.

I guess that makes sense. I don't have much experience working bellies so never thought about it. I usually just throw away bellies or sell them for a few bucks a piece when I accumulate a pile.

Really probably not a big deal either way? I'd maybe guess it has something to do with marring the leather edge on the grain side? Especially if you're edging damp leather.

I like the old Staney razor knives that retract. One of my favorite Quarter or 50cent purchases at garage sales/flea markets/auctions! I only buy the retractable versions, I have a tendency to want to put them in my pockets.... Do you have garage sales in Canada? Just curious.

Anything sells in America, even if its' a "bad" deal! There would probably be a market for any shears, although unless you can be competitive it won't matter. The tariffs are your friend to a degree. You may pay more for steel, but get a higher percentage return on the finished product. I use a pair of W German made "Black Diamond" shears that are similar to the Wiss, w/serrations to grip, but I find the Black Diamond shears to be better balanced. Osborne also markets shears that I think are made by Wiss. A longer pair would not give any increase in leverage so only would be good for soft leathers/thin chrome, etc. To be honest, while they might be known as "belt shears" they are not all that great at cutting belts. Cutting a belt or 2 yes, or a holster prototype, but if you do it all day no way. I use a pair of cutters with compound leverage far more than my Black diamonds for cutting straps to length. (Cut-Rite) They were marketed in the 1990s by Walmart (USA made) and I've bought every pair I've ever come across at almost any price. I'd think a buyer would pay up to $80 for a quality pair (really about going rate) if you were to make something up.

I think the original needles are going to be hard to find. I believe they're out of production by everyone and the lack of needles is what has pushed many away from the old 97's. I passed on one for that reason. What type of work do you plan to sew? I don't think I really ever stitched anything in leather over 11/16" Can always be a need for capacity though. Oil? Use straight 30W oil. Allot of the more modern, heavy machines use a 30W with a tackifier added (Basically 30w bar and chain oil). Old machines have allot of wear anyway and that helps a bit. Most of the little machines like a 31 you cite use a lighter weight oil, basically a spindle oil. Any oil is better than no oil, but that's too light for a 97 or any cast iron monster for that matter.

I have only a little experience with the 97. I think they were primarily used to sew heavy rigging back in the day, that was something hook and awl machines couldn't do. Should be able to simply adjust the needle bar up or down to compensate for the long needles? Those singer needles are longer because there's more stuff it has to clear. Guide/foot wise. You could probably use a shorter needle with good results if you ran it without the needle guide. That would depend on what you're planning to sew most likely. Seems like the old 97's have gone down the obsolescence path much like old Landis 1 and Champion Stitchers?

It might not be as hard as it sounds? 25 years ago when I was first getting into leatherwork I set up for snaps/etc. I bought some surplus arbor presses (US made) and bought snap setting tools from DOT. I bought a variety of the tools, some for the hand squeezy deal, some for other machines. It wasn't hard to work out how to use them on arbor presses. Most US tooling of this type has a shank that is on some kind of standard. 5/16 7/16,3/8 1/2" I don't know what the shank diameter of your riveter is, but it's probably one of those. You might just get lucky and buy setters that bolt right up. I feel like DOT brand setters for snaps are 3/8" as I sit here, I'll have to check later if I remember. Weaver tends to just copy what's industry standard, or whatever was most popular/common.. For example I have a big foot powered Judson Thompson loop stapler that's 100 years old and I Bought a Weaver anvil for one of their machines and it dropped right in and fit perfectly. If not, how hard can it be? You can work out sleeve bushings from the hardware store if your new tooling is for example 3/8" and your tool takes 1/2" shanks. I kinda don't see a need to hire a machinist to make adapters. --I just watched a min of a video on YouTube showcasing a Stimson 405 out of curiosity, looks like the lower tool is a 1/2" shank, the top looks pretty slender, maybe 5/16"? You could probably just bore the ram out to the standard of whatever tooling you wanted to switch to, if you actually wanted to do that. It also appears that 405 tooling is readily available, snaps, eyelets, gromets, etc. Seems like you likely have a non-problem? Grommet Setting Tools Grommet Installation Machinery |Stimpson Web Store

I've got a Campbell Randall VSB Burnisher. Honestly It's not as good as you're hoping it is. Mine collects dust.... They're built out of a common brushed sewing servo and fitted with an adapter that allows you to use Galli Burnishing wheels. The Galli wheels are a great item, lots of different wheels, grinding, diamond, leather, wood, phenolic, etc available. The bad part is that they have poor speed control ("0" to 3000K RPM) and almost no torque. A burnisher needs a little bit of low rpm torque. The Galli burnishing wheels have a bit of diameter to them so a low torque, hard to control cheap brushed servo isn't really what you want. The dust collector shield on the Randall VSB is actually a plastic dust collector hood from the Bosch Router. I ended up building 2 of my own burnishers, one out of a LOBO profile sander and the other out of a washing machine motor. Sometimes i use the DC burnisher on the front of my Galli FCE, but it's only setup for horizontal burnishing. I also have 2 other heavy factory made motor driven burnishers. One is a Randall in a hammered green paint. It has lots of torque, but setup with steel burnishing heads and kinda not that great. The other is an ancient machine that's almost identical to the Randall (Looks like Randall Copied it) that has a large multi groove cocobolo (or somthing similar) head about 6" in diameter. That one sees a fair amount of flat use. I guess my suggestion is to build your own and don't buy one. It looks like you don't need that advice though! You need decent lower speed torque and ability to vary the speed. 1/2hp 3ph motor is probably a good choice. I've run `1/3hp motors on burnishers and found them overheating from the load if I use them for a period of time. a 3ph motor is less prone to getting hot as well. If you're doing heavy burnishing I'd probably go so far as to recommend a 3/4hp motor.

In reality, other than testing a damaged pulley, that trick wouldn't do enough most likely to show what's bad. Bearings are precision units (even cheap bearings) and you could have enough bearing damage or runout in the shaft to cause issues and not be able to tell with a screwdriver. A possible "possibility" is that maybe the shaft was "driven" backwards a little, enough to cause something to rub inside? If that was the case would be an easy fix I'd think? If it is a bad bearing, I'd almost gamble its the rear bearing rather than the front.

Just a thought, but if your pulley doesn't wobble and the shaft appears to have no runout, is your belt having a bad section? Just thinking of all options.