Cumberland Highpower

I've got a Sutton finisher with a canvas dust bag, It's filthy and smells like 40 years of sanded shoes....I vacuumed it, but would like to wash it. Has anyone ever tried to do so? Think it would work in a washing machine on a short delicate cycle? Someone told me to take it to a laundromat that has commercial machines without a center agitator. Any thoughts? I think I'm starting to develop a minor allergy to leather dust, anything to help.

You've got allot of good answers so far, but I wouldn't use any of the Barge products. It's pretty potent fume wise, even if they claim it's less so than others. Any time I tried to use either type I ended up feeling a little sick from it. (Nausea, dizziness). Not much, but noticeable. Dap Weldwood is somewhat better, at least it's what I use. The Latex Weldwood is even better if you're working with leather and you can even thin it down. The latex version is pretty safe to use and I get about 50% more coverage compared to the neoprene base glue per gallon. I've also used it in glue machines with decent success. The Latex isn't so good if you're gluing rubber to leather though. It doesn't need as much ventilation to use either.

I happened to come into one of these machines. Is this still something that anyone uses today? I don't really have a use for it. Guess it looks like you could run a basketweave pattern right across your skirts? lol

Actually, your side looks ok to me. From the photo it looks like an A grade piece that came from SLc with a couple added pallet rack scuffs and a little short term warehouse dusting. Normal in the trade to a degree.......... The honest truth, is that ALL leather isn't as good as it was 10 years ago. Depending on what you make, HO leather is the best on the market. Its' firm, consistent in weight, has been rolled (having a smooth surface) and takes dye and water very well. (Evenly). It also dries quicker than most other leathers. They also tend to grade it better when splitting. In this country, Only Wickett and craig is close. W&c isn't as firm and tends to stretch more. I'd say the worst downhill slide is that Chahin that Weaver sells. Before covid it was ok. Now I'm looking elsewhere. Veg tanned leather tends to have blems, scars, wrinkles, etc. After you use a few thousand sides, you'll realize what you received is actually looking pretty good. Bellies are filler/junk/liner, shoulders are used for items that take the neck wrinkles well. Your bend is usually pretty clean, maybe a brand. HO looks at the bend area first, then shoulder. Weight wise, I think they allow 1/2oz +/- I haven't shopped at SLC, but I do find that price rather high. Wholesale pricing should be around $250. When you dye/work/tool this leather the looks will be more to your liking. You mentioned you didn't like the finish? It doesn't have a finish....That will be your job. If you don't like this piece, you probably should look into a different tannage/leather, something chrome tanned with an aniline top coat. No other tannery will produce a cleaner, smoother veg tanned leather at any sort of affordable price than HO

He's still in business, called me today!

I'm not sure if he's still in business? I mailed in an order/parts request for some Landis 16 parts over a month ago. Didn't hear back so I called and left messages a couple times...No reply as yet. I hope it's just an oversight on his part and nothing worse.

Who is the maker?

No I meant Uranium. The US is currently importing Russian uranium, but it looks like it may be stopped in the near future. Even that "ban", assuming Biden signs it, is subject to waivers.... Congress passes Russian uranium import ban, unlocking $2.7B to expand US nuclear fuel production | Utility Dive While it might be bad for Russian exporters, it's probably a good thing for your Country? Looks like Canada will be part of the supply solution. Anyway, back to sewing

I don't think that's exactly true, fertilizer, plywood, etc are still coming in. Trade is way down and some things are blocked import, but not everything. Uranium imports are likely to be blocked soon As well. Tariffs are up on most Rus goods imported (I'm thinking I last heard they were in the 40's%), and few payment options. No payment options, few ways to pay for imports, etc. Most Russian websites are still readily available for access from the West, you just can no longer buy anything. I think those plates are mostly Ukranian. I'd not be too surprised if some might come in from Bulgaria. (Also Cyrillic). I'd look on Etsy.

Well it's an 8 month old thread, but I just saw it, so it's new to me The abbreviation for serial number is Spanish, so it's probably a Mexican market strap cutter like Tylee said. I'd guess maybe Taiwanese or Chinese made and tagged for the Mexican/S American market?

UPDATE I gave up searching and ordered kg669 swing away guide and needle plate set 17220, 17220 from KH in China. After looking at what came in, I'd have to advise anyone planning to buy from KH to steer clear if there are options. The swing away guide has a base that's welded out of square and does not fit well (level) on the machine the needle plate 17221 is bent like a banana. totally unusable. I did keep the feed dog as it looks fine and it's the part I really needed anyway. I might try to straighten out the base of the kg669, but I fear it may break. looks like a welded part. (although could be MIM) Only plus is that the parts were cheap. Cheap as in 20% of what a quality parts should cost. I'd have been willing to pay 3-4x the price for a quality unit...Just didn't have any option.

I prefer Poly thread for most of the items we make with the Randalls, but use nylon when i want different colors. Both Nylon and Poly work fine. There's some kind of "myth" that you can't use nylon or poly, but that's just a myth.. I know an Amishman who has a harness shop and of 4 UL's that run 8hrs a day, they've never seen a spool of linen in the 40 years they've been in operation there. Now I've never run synthetics under 207 on a hook and awl, so something like 138 might be a different story? Nylon does have more stretch/elasticity than poly. Once you set your brakes/pullers or tension (depends on the machine) you're all set. Both work fine in Union Locks, Landis 16's, Champions, Randalls. Never seen a machine that can't run great with nylon/poly. To be honest, it's hard to get good linen thread anymore. I used to run linen on some things, but nowadays you can't really get good linen. Poor quality linen is a pain. Barbours was really good until it was gone. Hungarian linen was ok. Seems it may be unavailable? Have seen a little Chinese linen...Barf. I did see Somak in UK has some linen, but never looked to see if z twist was available.

They're excellent machines. My parents bought one at an auction 30 years ago for $125 and it was a real tank. They still use it for occasional projects. Easy to use, well made, precise. Only downside was the standard bobbin, but that's really a minor thing in this era. Make sure you have the smallest pulley on your motor. Also, I don't know the speed rating of your motor, 3450 vs 1725. They're all roughly interchangeable on the table. Needles should be 135x17 if I remember right. Yes of course it's good for leather and anything you can fit under the foot. Use 135x16 needles on leather. Size depends on thread you want to use, you can look online and find some data. 138 is the max thread.

LOL Well, I appreciate the tips though, glad you placed your initial reply. Things may yet come across! If I keep the replies to the post coming in, may generate more leads or a member may find one in a dusty box?

Shoepatcher It looks like you're on the right track there. I found KH makes a swing away bed version for the Adler 669 and Seiko LSC. The drop down guide is allot tougher...My Consew and Seiko have the mounting bolts for the drop down bracket in the front, like in the photo I posted. I contacted by phone and email every one of KGG's contacts, not a single reply or "getting back to you". I guess I'm on my own? Probably should just take a day and make my own.....Just hate to do it.

It was common to mix pitch/rosin with wax. Maybe the last batch of wax/pitch didn't mix well? I put allot of hours on Randalls, over past 20 years, I've not really used the bobbin wax pots except for linen. If you use Nylon/Poly you don't really need it, but I guess looks good where it's supposed to be. If you can find pre lubed thread you won't even need the top wax pot.

I feel like Weaver has or had had something like that

Interesting, fhanks for the lead. I'll have to see what Pfaff might have available. It's it's a pfaff guide I hope it's still something available. (Pfaff isn't what it used to be after the Chinese takeover). The photo was taken in Japan and the machine is a Seiko LSC-8.

Hello Ferg, I am afraid not really. I was looking for something a little more trimmed down like on the photo I posted. If I come across a need for a style like yours I'll look you up.

I looked at those a few times over the past 2 years... Decided in end to buy an ISM SV71 as a test bed for a Seiko I have. I think I'd prefer that route?

I would, but I think I could probably source 4-6 used 1341's for what I'd be into a 2341 for. Wouldn't mind having a 2341 though. I don't even really need a 1341, just with age I'm getting too lazy to change guides/jigs/binders. It's easier to just sit at whatever machine gets the work

I always had better luck getting good money on Ebay. Some will drive to pick up. Might get just as much out of a head only and you can ship that in a heavy box or wood crate. Be careful though, I sold an Adler on Ebay (167) and it had a heavy impact somewhere along the line, I suspect UPS dumped it from the truck.....Ended up ordering a new OEM part for the buyer.

I'd love to find a guide like this. Surely made in Japan? Either guide. The big swing away one on the arm as well.

Those were my thoughts KGG. I've compared Chinese clones of big Adlers and Juki's and they're all lacking compared to originals. If nothing else, it's a pride of ownership thing. I'd rather sit for hours on end in front of a quality machine built in Japam rather than a Chinese Junker with a Juki badge. Of course I know Juki probably sources some parts outside of Japan, it's the way of the world these days.