Cumberland Highpower

Guess none to be found these days?

I like your project but I have to ask, is it really worth the amount of work considering what a good used machine can sell for? Are you just into restoring old skivers?

I use those machines. I'd say they probably would work for you so long as your strap/belt is thick enough to support itself and you keep a sharp blade against the leather. I've edged chrome-oil leather sewn in layers but that's a bit firmer than some chrome you might be working?

They're a pretty good splitter. I suspect standard 6" blades from Randall will fit or can be made to fit. I have one of these Fendas that I used a few times that was factory built as a motorized splitter, no cranking required. I used it for something specific until I acquired a UA and now just collects dust...

Wow that's pretty neat. I haven't seen one like it, but for some reason it seems to look like something made by Randall rather than C-B. Maybe 40's or 50's vintage?

I have a 5hp and 3hp rotary generators in use. They'll operate a clicker just fine. My Atoms work as they should. One of my atoms has a 2hp motor on it and many times I've only used the generator to power it up and then switch it off. The machine will operate at 2/3 power on single phase without the generator. 3ph clickers are mostly factory 1hp I believe. Most clickers are available in single phase new, but when you shop used it's tougher to find single phase machines. You can buy a single phase motor w/capacitor for Atoms and Fipi machines, but they're a tough motor to find in the USA for any kind of reasonable price.... A rotary generator is your best option, they're easy to find used and not hard to wire up. Clickers start up with a heavy load I and believe a static cap inverter or VFD would never cut it.

Hmm, that's a tough one. Looks like maybe rollers from an old 1861 randall w/some other parts? Unless it's something dear to you I'd really say honestly it's not worth trying to put together. Even if it were a complete creaser of that old of a design, It would be worth maybe $200?

I'm curious if anyone knows of a supplier of 7/8oz veg tanned pebble grain leather, preferably in black? Thanks!

34 views and none tried?

I am curious if anyone has tried or is running S twist linen in a Peerless 30 Stitcher? If you have what were the results?

Hello yes they did make the 16" version at the end. It's what they were selling at Weaver before the new ECOs... Here is a link. They were 16" depth machines. https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-8080/weaver-205-sewing-machine-/pr_51532

CDTHAYER, The 205s did come in 2 different throat depths. The earlier version was painted with grey hammer paint and the later deeper throat was painted white. Vernon Weaver claimed that Weaver Leather pressured Adler to revise the 205 to make it deeper. (Well who's to say if they did or didnt). They sold them for a couple years until they were discontinued. If you want a deep one I believe they were all made in the Czech Republic (White paint). Probably changed castings when they moved production. If you do allot of tarp work specifically you should look for a used pfaff or juki. I've seen pfaff 145's quite cheap. $200-400. 1245s seem to go around 500++Craigslist generally has a few. Check auctions too. www.auctionzip.com

I'd go for the Juki. The adler 205 is good as well, but they had 2 different throat depths. (Weaver sold both the grey shallow and later deeper throat model before they were discontinued). I've used both and actually prefer the Juki, but not by a huge margin. It may make a difference for canvas/tarp work. I would NOT buy any Chinese clone. If nothing else, they'd be harder to get rid of when you dont want it..... If you want to compare tools it's like comparing SK to...Harbor Freight. Those Adler ECO referenced above are pretty neat and have lots of good depth/clearance. They also have a needle Pos. System...But are like 7-8k new and Kinda hard to justify unless you plan to run it all day every day. I believe the Juki 441 is still made, and at least the last new one I saw was made in Japan.

Thanks for the replies gents. Both types, the nylon and poly are right hand twist. maybe I need to order up some left and see how it runs. It would appear to slightly untwist it on the bottom as I have it set up. Big Sioux I appreciate the input as well, you're probably correct on the right hand twist being the specification, maybe some minor adjustments are in order.

I am working on a Champion Peerless 30 for a project. Finally got it set up and stitched some with poly then switched over to linen 4 cord w/ liquid wax. Everything looks great with the poly but I notice the underside thread has a bit of an odd look to it. Are these machines set up for a specific twist on the shuttle?

A few years ago I moved an Atom Se25 in my shop and it's a heavy machine... I think a FIPI is a clone of an Atom? Anyway, There should be some threaded bolt holes on each side of the clicker near the surface of the "table" Those are for bolting a lifting sling to the machine. It's just a piece of chain with a flat metal plate on each end with holes drilled for bolts to pass through. I think you could rig one up yourself pretty easily. I actually had one (Or should say I still have one). Meaning I have no idea where it's at.....Lost but present somewhere on my property DONT pick it up by the head/swing arm if you can get out of it. I've done it before on other machines but looking back I wouldn't do it again Other than that, once you get a skid/pallet under your machine you can move it that way. I happen to have a steel base with rubber feet that came with mine that I left on it. (I think it's a type of sea/shipping skid with tunnels in it for forks). I didn't use a forklift to move that machine. I rented a "Super Bobcat" the heaviest, biggest bobcat/skid-steer I could get. Cost me about $100 to rent a day with pallet forks. Just went REAL SLOW......The clicker was heavy and it did lift the back wheels of the bobcat a couple times. I'd suggest renting one of those Bobcats w/forks and just go real slow. I specifically rented one as i had to drive over some grass yard and through a door only 9' high... Forklift might struggle a bit with that. Anyway just my experience/suggestion, yours may vary considerably. Here is a PDF link for an ATOM manual. It shows how to sling it up about 1/2 the way through. https://www.kempler.com/sites/default/files/manufacturer/docs/catalog/Atom Series SE Clicking Press With Turning Arm Manual_0.pdf

Hello guys thanks for the replies. Rocky Aussie it's a USMC. (United Shoe Machinery Company). Made in the US. Pretty old machine made back when. (Guessing maybe 20s-30s, could be older). It looks like a USMC Model A to me, but the plate on it says model "82" Matt this USMC is set up for lineshaft like most machines of it's era..Has a large cast Iron flywheel that should be powered by a flat leather drive belt from the ceiling or floor... I myself also have a Fortuna (UA) and it's a little smaller compared to the USMC...I would say the USMC take more a good bit more heft to turn by hand...Every function of the machine is driven by the single large cast iron drive wheel. He's Amish so he's only permitted to have air or lineshaft power in his shop, so it's why we're working on this project. I think he's hoping we can use a large air motor to avoid building extensions to his lineshaft/perkins diesel. We tried a 6hp air motor but it seemed to stall out. Even if we build onto the lineshaft, we have no idea what rpm it needs as input just yet.

A friend of mine purchased a USMC Model 82 band knife splitter and he's trying to set it up and use it. He's looking for a manual to explain/describe the functions of the many controls. Anyone know where I might be able to find one? His machine is also set up for a lineshaft and we're trying to decide how much power it will take to run it and what speed (rpm) It should have input. Any advice and technical knowledge is appreciated in advance.

Did you ever find parts for your machines? I have a machine like one of yours (light gray one). I took the table off and made some special parts to convert it to a different duty... Managed to crack a piece inside by tightening it too much and a machine shop made a replacement for me. The paint under the gray is black (mine was). Probably painted in a rebuild along the line...

I picked up a couple punches at a local distributor, thanks for the reply to my post "CS OSBORNE." The new 155 punches look identical to my old one, except they have threaded in tubes. Glad I had the manufacturer step in and back up my "claims" about the non threaded tubes in the 155 punches....:)

Hello, do you have these machines for sale still? there is one or 2 i am interested in.

Thanks for your reply Bruce. You know, the 155 I had for many years appeared to have non replaceable tubes in the wheel..They were pressed in. A sort of "taper" base instead of threads. I suspect it was an older 155 as I purchased it used. Had a nickel plate finish that tended to tarnish a bit. Was clearly marked CS Osborne on the side of the lower jaw, so no doubt of the maker.

I am going to purchase a Revolving Hand Punch for the occasional small job... I'm contemplating to purchase a Vergez Blanchard Rotary hand punch... I did have an Osborne 155 for about 20 years but it has gone AWOL. How does the Blanchard Revolving punch compare to to the Osborne 155 as far as fit/feel quality and use? Anyone think I'd regret a change?

Looking for a leather folding machine Preferably Italian.... Let me know what you have and what your asking as well as location. Thanks!

Hi Ray, It's a Galli FCE. The Galli FCE+2 has these and an electrical heat glazer as well I believe, But I do not have a +2 unfortunately....