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Mike Craw

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Everything posted by Mike Craw

  1. I can't get any of them to open. Are they in the Stohlman Saddle Making series? Thanks, Mike
  2. Plus One for Lonnie Height/ Gomph-Hackbarth Tools 520-642-3891. He custom cut (shortened) a 5/8" barrel knife which has been my go-to for years, and Lonnie is a good a guy as you'll ever deal with.
  3. Hey SLP! First, from a leather working perspective, the tooling, finishing, and edges are far better than on the first holster I made some 35 years ago! From the perspective of a retired Law Enforcement Officer, combat shooter and Firearms Instructor, the most important recommendation I can make is to re-design the throat of your holster (around the top and down to where it joins the seam) so that the firearm sits higher. You want to be able to grip the weapon in the holster with a shooting grip, and not have to adjust your grip after you draw the firearm. As you can see, your fingers will not fit around the grip behind the trigger guard as the firearm currently sits. Hope this helps, and again, that's an outstanding first attempt! Mikw
  4. Welcome! For those of us on St Simons, you'd be from North-East Georgia Mike
  5. You can think of it as a PITA fee, but tell the PITA that it's a "Change Order" fee. You built what he asked for...he changes at that point, he pays! Mike
  6. HI 25b, I don't know that it's a matter of "won't" help you and perhaps "can't" help. I don't know of anyone who makes these things, and without photos, I'm not positive that I even know exactly what they look like. Do you know of any company / vendor who offers the finished product or reproductions for sale? Mike
  7. "Not Bad..." Seriously? I'd like to see what you'd rate outstanding, because that's how it looks to me! Do you have some sort of finish over the airbrushed paint to prevent wear? Mike
  8. Hey Chief! If it's going down under, shouldn't the letters go the other way? OK, maybe not. Looks outstanding! Mike
  9. For what it's worth, my 1911A1 from Rings is 1/10" under in slide width. It seems a shame to have to alter something you bought based on the fact that it's "actual size"... Mike
  10. I tried to reply to George B about needing a rifle case, and I was told it had to be reviewed. Am I in "time-out for something??? Mike
  11. Hey George! You might want to check out the Stohlman series "Making Leather Cases." Vol. 3 deals with rifle cases scoped and un-scoped. You do the rest of his leather work, you might as well do this, too! Give ie a shot! Mike
  12. Same for me, since the 1960's. Mike
  13. To amplify what Dwight said, if you can't obliterate 'em, celebrate 'em! Scribe them in strong and run a push bevel down them. You're the only one in the world who knows you didn't intend to put them there to start with. Mike
  14. I'd say that's a pretty sweet looking saddle for $75, especially a Visalia! Please post photos once you get it done. Mike
  15. I guess I'll throw my two cents worth in. I am a retired federal agent, Instructor at the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center, Firearms Instructor, and holster maker for myself and others who carry for a living for over 30 years. Two things: First, when your mind accepts the fact that things are really bad enough to pull your gun, you will not feel the little bit of resistance that comes from a molded holster. Second, if you are not a law enforcement officer and things are not calmed down to the point that you can use both hands to put your weapon back in its holster, re-holstering is not something you should be worried about! If you are a LEO, you have been taught and practiced the techniques that go with re-holstering when making an arrest. I read the question as regarding a citizen with a CCW and I don't believe that re-holstering is a huge priority. When the cavalry arrives you will undoubtedly be directed to place your weapon on the ground and step away. After things are sorted out, there will be plenty of time to safely re-holster. For what it's worth... Mike
  16. I'm not much more talented with a sewing machine than I am with a computer, so this may not be the best advice you get, but the first (cheap) trick I'd try is just replacing the needle. If it still frays, you might check the point of the shuttle hook to make sure there are no burrs. In my case it's an "old dog - new trick" kind of thing, but my Cobra 4 is teaching me all sorts of new stuff. Hope this helps. Mike
  17. Check out Will Ghormley for his Forty-Niner pattern pack for drawings of the holster making pattern and tooling patterns included. Hope this helps. Mike
  18. The LCSJ offers a compilation of just those articles in one volume. You can go on their website and you will see it offered for sale. Don't know if that would be a savings over the total numbers of issues, or if you just want all the back-issues to have, but it is an option. Hope this helps. Mike
  19. I would add a +1 to all of the above, with a special mention of Clay Miller. He's a member on here and an excellent tool maker. He is also willing to custom make tools to your specifications. He made a set of steep angle fine checkered bevelers that I reach for all the time. He has a selection of standard tooling gear, but if you have a specific request, you should contact him. He's great to work with. Mike
  20. Hey KGV! Since nobody has jumped in with a source, I might suggest that you could make one from a standard push edge creaser. With a hand grinder and some really fine wet/dry sand paper, you could knock down the inside cutter edge from the curve of the guide edge in, and polish a flat surface. It isn't the tool you want, but I'd guess it might serve the purpose. Mike
  21. Thumbs up from here. I wouldn't want the trigger area boned in any more or you might get an ugly surprise when you re-holster, but as far as coverage goes, I think that's plenty. Mike
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