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electrathon

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Everything posted by electrathon

  1. I often dip dye. Otherwise use a piece of sheep shearling, wipe fast and non-directionally. Only use a dauber if you want streaks and color inconsistency.
  2. It will stay unless you have something like oversized round holes. With proper slits they lock in tight.
  3. Go to Facebook search mini5. All three tools come together.
  4. There are different angles available.
  5. Templates are your friend when punching holes. Make one out of cardboard (or leather), then punch your holes through it, they will be exactly in the correct spot that way.
  6. Nail polish. Put your stamp in a cordless drill, rotate and touch your brush to the tool. Nice straight lines, not all glob by that way.
  7. Just looked at my boots and they have an eyelet just like it.
  8. It did what it is supposed to do. The antique should only stay in the cracks and lines. If you are using cheap chromed tools or your leather was over wet/mushy you may not have good tooling definition, then it will look like nothing stayed.
  9. I have some of those money clips. I bought them on EBay out of China a few years back.
  10. This is a good looking machine. In good shape. I looked at it and would have bought it is it was a little smaller, was just a little too big for my needs.
  11. They have had she same problem as far back as I know. I agree, it is basically unusable. I was going to build an adjustment nut with the proper size of slot, but never did. I ended up buying one from Ron's tools instead. The other one you listed has the same problem, just not as bad. Both of them will cut very shallow, then dive in deep and ruin your leather.
  12. For a working dog I personally would use nylon. Nothing will make the leather waterproof, only resistant. If it was for a show, totally different, use leather and accept that it will require maintenance.
  13. Renia in a green can. Best and strongest there is. Masters was Renia, relabeled, till recently. Also does not have toluene in it, far less health risks than Barge. It is not the cheapest.
  14. I agree and use the same as Tinker, paste wax. Rub it on, wipe it off. There will be so little residual there is no way you will have transfer issues. I do it to my non-stainless tools.
  15. I suspect the blade was already pitted. An acid strong enough to eat hardened 01 in two minutes would attack your skin in a few seconds. The inside of the sheath should also be solid gray/black if it caused it, a vinageroon effect.
  16. Totally depends on the knife. That is way more than I would pay for poor quality, I have paid more for a good one. A low end one will not sharpen well and will go dull easy. A good one, that has been overheated from improper sharpening, is even worse. Or, if you got a good one, once properly sharpened and you will likely be giddy with excitement. Probably will be posting videos of how much better and cleaner you are able to cut leather.
  17. Looks like a bent blade, it is common. Even normal. Remove your blade and color the cutting edge AND THE BACK of the blade with a sharpie. Spray glue a piece of at least 600, preferably finer grit, wet/dry sandpaper to a piece of glass. Carefully sand both cutting edge and the back of the blade with a circular motion, keeping the paper wet. You will quickly see where it is warped. I don't think I have seen a straight blade when I have sharpened one yet.
  18. I have a small wood stove in my shop. I would be sad if I couldn't build a fire and be warm.
  19. Yes, tons of money. 😳
  20. You can, but it will be less elaborate. There are stamps that have animals, designs, etc. on them. For a beginner, this may be a place to start. Most of us do not end up there though, we start carving. You will get more depth and deminsion to your work that way.
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