Billsotx

I'm interested in anything you willing to post, especially in the what and how in lighting. I don't have a SLR but anything you share would probably be beneficial.

I've been using the free version for years and like it - have not had problems. The Windows Firewall and the one from my ISP are all I use. Like you I was not satisfied with McAfee.

This concho started out on a holster (no photo), was handy for a Nokia phone case, because it was there, and now moved on to an iPhone_4 (prototype) horizontal style belt pouch. W/C black drum dyed 5/6oz. scrap, welts are 5/8", stitched on a Boss. Probably will go back to the vertical style to take up less belt space; it's getting over crowed with pistol, mags, flashlight, knife and bigger phone. So far I like the phone. LW.net is handier than ever Simply flip, push, tug, slide and talk ...

OHG billymac I thought I was having some kind of flash back. Did I answer my own question ... lol! Surfed over to you web. Nice looking stuff. I thought your pillon pad was a sissy bag, but google educated me. We don't need no stickin' fenders on our bikes ... LOL! Let us know what your clients think about your upcoming belts. You DO and we LEARN!

The cut of leather is the primary factor. Belts should be cut from the back as previously noted. I've seen a lot of belt straps cut from shoulders, which I wouldn't waste time on. I cut my belts from the top third of a side, and I prefer to cut the billet end from the butt. I used 8/9oz. and lightly taper the billet on the liner and the fold-end of the outer. I have looked at a lot of the later Bruce Nelson's belts and I copy what I think he did. Nelson is probably the first custom holster maker to build contoured concealed carry belts. He said that he got the idea from the heyday Hollywood buscadero belts. Galco, Milt Sparks and other top notch gun leather is also contoured. Contoured is comfort. If belts are 2 inches wide or less, cut them straight, glue them up, case them and lay them flat on your workbench and with the flats of your hands put the curve in the belt that you want. You can eyeball it or you can make a form (jig if you will) to shape it around. If you're building the belt for a male, lay the billet to your right and gradually work in the contour. If you're building for a female, lay the billet to your left and then curve it. Let it dry thoroughly and then stitch it. I know a guy (who will remain un-named) that used to work for one of the above mentioned makers and they make their belts in this way. They build belts all day, and at the end of the day, they dip the belts in a tub of gum trag (but water will work in my experience) and then lay them on a table and shape them. Wider belts, western rigs - buscaderos, will have to be cut on a contour. You can only bend so much leather. Surf around the saddle makers on this forum. They shape breast straps in this manner. Anytime I'm around a saddle guy or gal, I listen, they know stuff ... yeah, some of them are old ... lol! I'm keeping an eye on horsewreck, sounds like he's been there done that, walked away from it, didn't crash and burn ...

If you're going to do this just once or once in awhile; I think you can do that by first gluing it and then stitching it. Fold it over a hacksaw blade or cut a piece of flashing the correct width to get your folds. Wet it, fold it, clamp it between a couple piece of board, maybe work it lightly with a modeling tool (or similar) for a good crease (not to heavy handed), let dry, then glue it up, let dry and stitch. I'd use white glue as it give you time to work and it flexible enough for a strap. If you're going to do a production run, then try to track down "the foot" 50 years is talking about, I think he's on the right track

Sorry for the vaqueness. To my knowledge the book doesn't exist. I was just thinking out loud. Right now the Stohlman book remains at the top.

I see a Happy Birthday message over there on your profile. Maybe that's it. Click on your user-name and see if you can get to your profile.

If there's a leathercrafter's Bible - that's it ... and then there's Verlane's notes - priceless! Too bad someone can't put them into one cover. I reckon lots of folks miss that gal.

Al Stohlman's "Leathercraft Tools" describes and illustrates this fench edge skiving tool technique and more. The book describes how to use and maintain most, if not all, leather crafting tools. Well worth the $s: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/department/Books-Patterns/61960-00.aspx?feature=Product_16 Leathercraft Tools Book Item #61960-00 The fench skiving tool: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/site+search+results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=french&x=17&y=6

Bad, bad, bad, that's bad-to-the-bone!!! Do you adhere the upholstery fabric to the leather? If so, with what, how, ... a tip ... please? Haven't block dyed in awhile, gotta do something along those line. That looks cool!

It's the same type. The one on the forum you linked to maybe heavier metal (thicker). I think the one at Zack White will work for a belt. You seem them on Garrison belts that cops wear under their Sam Browne belts - they advertise them as buckle-less systems. As far as sources Google didn't come up with any links to hareware. Maybe someone here will provide a couple more leads. They're typically called rifle sling hooks.

You'll need your hardware; you'll need rivets or snaps or screws (options) and tools to set them, your mallet (or a maul, or brass hammer); I'd punch oblong holes for buckling so a oblong punch for that in addition to your other which I'd opt for a set of varied sizes; I'd put a crease around the edge so a creaser; if you're going to dye it you'll need dye; I'd get an edge beveller and put a niece edge on it; to finish the edge med., fine and extra fine sandpaper and a piece of canvas to burnish the final edge and beeswax or paraffin also for burnishing the edges. A strap cutter makes for easy cutting of straps and I like to thin the buckle fold and billet end slightly for a flatter, less protruding, fit when buckled around your waist. You can thin it with a safety beveller or head knife; you'll have to practice on it - takes some skill - go sloooow! I can't do beans without a head knife and some folks are afraid of them. They're like a gun - they have one purpose to cut, they don't care who or what. Keep all your gear behind the cutting edge just like it's the muzzle of a gun. Fear will never get anywhere. You'll probably want to put a finish on it, and it may need some oil depending on what you select. I prefer Lexol, some folks neatsfoot, other olive oil. Never under estimate neutral Kiwi shoe paste. There are lots of choices and I'd sample them on a scrap before I put them on what I've toiled over. Speaking of which, get enough to make at least 2. If if comes out right you'll need a backup - one is none, two is one and three is better - stuff wears out and breaks when needed most. One for every day and one for Sunday Bar-B-Qs I think the adjustable piece your describing is a frog or sling hook like this: http://www.zackwhite.com/product.php?productid=19381&cat=0&page=1 Maybe this will help some and glad you hear you've relapsed into to world of leather. Surf around here, there's a lot of good folks and they'll share their experiences with you.

Took a while to figure it all out but I think I'm back up to speed. Many thanks to both of y'all.

I'm running Vista Home Premium Version 6 and lately everytime I bootup or reboot their is a small pop-up window that appears with following: Java Auto Update Sun Microsystems ... A program needs your permission to continue. Under "Details" it says: "C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Java\Java Update\jucheck.exe" -auto The are 2 buttoms: "Continue" and "Cancel" It doesn't matter which you click, it always comes back. It's getting annoying. What can I do to resolve it? Thanks in advance for any help.

Nice!

I don't know the term. Can you describe it or post a photo?

Hey cowboy! Welcome to the biggest leather family on the planet. Lots of stuff here to learn here and real friendly folks. Take time to show them boys how to carve. Dad showed me some neat stuff and they'll be saying that about their Dad one of these days. Be seeing you down the trail ...

Yes, but there's just something about him. Something around the eyes, ...

Good luck finding solid brass. First use a magnet, if it doesn't attract, then use fine steel wool, it's a bit quicker that Brazo. Been there too ....

You might look at these. On the Home Page click tubular rivet and look far right at Roll Clinched Rivet. Scroll to mil spec. I know what you're talking about. Ray Allen puts them on their mil spec leashes and harness, and these are the closest I've seen to theirs. http://www.hansonrivet.com/

Where'd you get the hide?

I like it. Nice work! What weight leather did you use?

Looking good. You can take it a little further by burnishing the edges; you could run a little crease around the edge of the flap too, I'd go about 1/8" to 3/16" off inside the edges after I cleaned them up. I can't tell you what kind of leather. There's so much good imitation out there I wouldn't venture there. Do you think that putting the loop horizontal instead of vertical it might ride a little better on a should strap? You've got a good start and Jo's Leatherworker.net is the place to be to learn.

13. This picture shows a couple steps later. Pictures would not have shown much. I have cut out the elephant and glued it to the flesh side of the cow hide so the smooth side is inside. I have also cut out the mouth/belt loop support piece and glued it together. My understanding is that roughside and flesh side are the same. Maybe I'm missing something .... Smooth is grain from what I've read.