JustWakinUp

As you all know when you show someone something they want it but with there info on it. So I did a wallet for my cousin with his Production Company name & Logo. Had huge problems with the backstitching and there are a few stitching errors but im getting better at it.

i graphic viewpoint. Personally I would take a digital of the image. Then pull it into Photoshop/Illustrator. Preferably Illustrator, Trace the deskigns usingthe pen tool and group them After that you will always have the pattern. If you ae not familiar with these programs, you can PM and we can discuss my doing the work for you.

It's Turkey Day, I hope you and yours have a great holiday. And just so you know Johanna,I'm thankful for the leatherwork.net forum......

i use a small edger then burnish with the round nylon edge slicker. I like the results and it give a decent round edge

First off I must be honest, this is my second attempt at this project. Kevin King has been instrumental in helping me out with his tutorial as well as a few PMs back and forth. THANKS KEVIN! Anyway, as you can see I tried out his little business card holder and this is what I came up with. The staining was done with an airbrush using buckskin, med. brown and a hint of black on the edges The opened view The interior was a tad tough to get situated but the french roll ( I think that's what you call that thing) seems to hide alot Thanks again for "everyones" help here, without you all this would have not happened.

Ok, I've followed some advice here with less than standard results. I'm hoping you guys can tell me what I'm doing wrong. The first image was treated with lexol, then stained with buckskin then antiqued with Med Brown then antiqued again with British tan. It appears that everytime I use the Med. Brown antique I get irregular black splotches & spots all over the piece. Here's an example This next image was not treated with lexol at all. It was simply rubbed with Med. Brown antique followed by buckskin stain. Notice all the splotches and spots an the irregular coverage. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated. I then had a scrap piece i simply rubbed Med. Brown (fiebings) antique on and the same results with the spots and splotches. Any info on what I'm doing wrong?

Hey Rod, I'm not sure what type of image you are using. But lets say it's a digital from a digital camera. I would suggest getting GIMP. It's a free image editor that is fairly easy to use. Once you have gimp installed and get your image opened in gimp you can do the following. Above the image that is opened goto image/scale image and then give it the size you would like. That way the image doesn't need any compression via MS Word. Also you will be able to adjust and manage any other photos you may have by using this program. If you need any help with it feel free to ask. You can download gimp http://gimp-win.sourceforge.net/stable.html I know it doesn't directly answer your question at hand, but it will resolve any image issues in the future.

I was asking around about the best way to get a good antique job and this was the answer. After stamping and letting the leather dry use lexol to open pours of the piece. After the lexol spray/sponge your stain on. After staining and letting it dry and buffing use a resist like leather balm/resolene. After the resist drys put your antique on wiping off excess and allowing to dry then buff. Put another coat of finish on the piece and buff to shine. So my questions are this.. 1) If i put the resist on the entire piece wouldn't it stop the antique from working properly 2) How should I be putting the resist on? ( sponge,spray,wood block with tshirt on it etc ... 3) How would you suggest wiping off the excess of antique? ( flat ruler with tshirt on it?)

Wow, that looks like alot of work !

There is a layer of material on the inside to keep the glasses safe. yeah I just cut it flush by my backstitch wasn't coming out very nice on the reverse side of the project. Going to try starting a few stitches down then backstitch like suggested ...Thanks guys

Wanted to try my hand at my new sewing machine. From this project I learned its hard to go around corners nicely. Also I'm not quite sure how to lock the thread. I go about 3-4 stitches forward then reverse those stitches then begin sewing normally until i get to the end where I do the same reverse technique, Is there something better I can do? I ended up putting together this eyeglass case for my mother while she was in town. Any critique is always welcome.

What's the leather? where to purchase that leather? What weight etc? I'd like to give it a go at making one like this?

Any pics of this being used? Sounds interesting but I think if I told my wife I had to run to the "AHEM" book store for some liquid latex to use on my leather projects, hahahah that would go over like hookers in a convent.

WoooHooo Time for a CARBEQUE !

Anyone have any patterns? I would love to make a strap soon and this one looks great. I have the shearling just need a pattern to cut the leather for the strap. If you're not familiar with this strap take a look at the image below.

Brief over follows. I purchased a piece of leather, and without saying there name, from an extremely popular leathercraft store oh about 2 months ago. I felt like I did a pretty good job at looking the piece over, well as good as one can under the lighting conditions of the store. So I pull the 4oz piece down today and begin to knock off some of the dust and whatnot and to my surprise there is this oddly colored subtance that keeps coming off the leather leaving indentions. I'm thinking it's me and Im using a terribly t-shirt for dust removal. Common sense strikes with a bolt of lightning and says, "you idiot it's cotton from a friggin tshirt, something is wrong with the leather". On closer inspection it appears as if there is some type of leather bondo/wood filler/fixer upper/hide something kinda stuff that has been placed in these imperfections of this piece to make it appear as a very nice piece. These bondo jobs stretch across the piece, it's not just a few places. Anyway , a picture is worth a thousand words. *Sorry about the scale of image but I wanted to be sure you all saw this

Is this confirmed? I would hate to drive the 100+ miles only to get there with a "Thanks for coming, come see us again"

I've also noticed in recent projects that if I forget to treat with lexol before staining the stain looks a mess..

With that said, I would assume that kangaroo is kangaroo is kangaroo. So it doesn't matter if I purchase the expensive stuff or the econimcal stuff it's all the same?

This may have been discussed somewhere but I was unable to find it. I've seen sooooo many different prices for kangaroo lace so I have a few questions. 1) Is one kangaroo lace just as good as the next or are the inflated prices justified? 2) I've been able to find 50yrd rolls for $12US cheaper than 25yrd rolls sold elsewhere "Why do i feel like something is wrong with that picture?" Tandy has 25yrd roll for $40 US(club price) $49 US (non club members) ZackWhite has 25yrd roll for $28 Springfield Leather has 50yrd roll for $27.99 Why is there such a drastic departure from these folks and where do you buy yours and for how much are you paying?

I really like those knives, how does one purchase?

And I thought my shop was coming along just fine until I saw all those tools....WHOA ! !

From the picture those 45's look like a skive area so the pieces meet nicely & can be glued/stitched.

This mitre cut you mention. Can you briefly explain it and the reason for it?

oh yeah, that thing looks super nice. I loved the day I got my artisan....GOOOOD TIMES !