TonyV

There are different methods to fit the welt; 1-cut it out the shape you need. 2-wet form it. 3-Cut out darts (small triangle pieces) to allow the sharp angles to bend. Check this video.

You would make a sheath for that knife about the same way you would make a sheath for any knife. Trace the shape and go from there. The blade would follow the shape of the channel inside the sheath.

If it made economic sense to utilize the nearly 3 million feral camels in Oz I'm sure they would. I know that some of the culls are used for pet food, but they have to process the meat immediately. The processor has to actually be on site when the camels are shot, and they can only take a limited amount at a time. Not so easy when you have million hectare + stations to run, with very limited water and grazing available in that desert environment. The trailers, stockyards, fences and other equipment that are designed and plenty strong for cattle are just too small to manage camels, which are much larger than cows. It would require an entire new setup and more manpower to wrangle them successfully. Not to mention Ozzy laws and regulations. I agree it seems wasteful. I have had a camel steak and it was very tasty and tender. Camel leather is reputed to be both soft and strong and there are thousands of hides left in the desert to rot. Ah well, worms and buzzards gotta eat, too. And I have wished for camel leather on occasion myself.

Agreed, a great start. Leather has a very broad spectrum of interests. This forum covers most all of them with very knowledgeable people wjilling to help.

Quick Shine's MSDS sheet describes the product as an acrylic finish, "Opaque, white acrylic" Propylene Glycol and Tributoxylethyl phosphate are the listed hazards. Mop n Glo lists Diethylene Glycol monoethyl ether. Both are acrylic finishes, so if the odor is what drives your choice, pick which ever pleases you. I have no idea which would be the superior product on leather.

You might need a bit more moisture, depending on what you mean by "little damp". We can't get a burnish with the stamps unless there is enough, but not too much, moisture inside the leather. There are many different methods to case the leather, a simple search of "casing leather" on youtube will give you plenty of options, but most of them agree, get it damp enough until it doesn't absorb the water quickly, and then wait long enough for the leather to begin looking like it's dry. Of course, too much moisture has its own set of problems, like mushy imprints and cuts, but judging from your statement, I would try more water and a bit more time to let it penetrate to the center. Trial and error will find the right moisture level and technique.

Thanks for your hard work Johanna

Hacked? I would be more concerned about our data security than the appearance. Just my 2 bits.

She will be proud to use it. Great job. Erin go bragh

Very nice. Worthy of the finest handmade arrows and bow.

hmmmm... leather scented leather soap

Yes, wood contributes to your knife getting dull. Just think of all the opportunity you have to get really good at sharpening and stropping! If you're determined to avoid plastic surfaces, try a softer wood surface, such as plywood, which you would be able to easily replace when needed. But really, the best cutting surfaces are made of plastic. Many of them are made of recycled plastic, if that helps.

Thanks Bruce. Got it bookmarked.

@Gezzer, looks like a 'newsboy' cap.

Nicely done! It looks like it was made for that wall.

Make that 4 Leave It votes. That old patina has its own quality that can't be reproduced.

A leather edge creaser will also provide a below surface channel for stitching, and it was used long before the invention of the groover. The groover is definitely faster and easier to use than a creaser. Both tools can be used for decorative crease/groove around the edge.

Al Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters gives you all the basics for several types of holsters. It's available on Ebay, amazon et. There are dozens of youtube creators that have produced how-to vids on holsters. Some are detailed and excellent quality, others, not so much. Tip #1, be sure to stick with veg tan leather, especially next to the firearm. Chrome tan can cause corrosion. Be careful of the youtube vids, there is at least 1 guy who promotes using chrome to line holsters. Don't do that! When I first reentered leather craft about 20 or so years ago, my first project was a Slim Jim holster for my 1858 New Model Army BP revolver. I used some vague written directions I found on the web somewhere, incorporated some vague memories on how to do things from my childhood leathercraft days, and built a holster that fits, functions and looks just fine, but which I know now was done all wrong. IMO, if it works, it ain't wrong.

It was made that way, most likely. It could be the nature of the beast from which the leather was made. I have some Crazy Horse buffalo, which has a fairly coarse touch even though it is full of wax and/or oils. It wears beautifully with lots of changing character but it sure ain't slick and smooth. Not all leathers are meant to be smooth and polished. When you buy a finished product, that's the finish you get... usually.

The $100 chinese patchers have a swiveling foot, sews in any direction. Use this function instead of turning the project, which can bend or break the needle. They are definitely troublesome, especially at first, but can turn out fairly good work once you learn the quirks and how to adjust them correctly. I only use mine for personal items, not for gifts (I don't sell any of my stuff). If I had known about the one DieselTech referenced, I might have got that one instead.

Nice work. The scales are well centered and, though the pic is a bit our of focus, stitching looks good.

If I have an old, dry piece of leather I want to carve, I will sometimes apply a bit of NFO a day or so before I case it. Seems to help restore the body sometimes, but I'm definitely not casing with oil. Some people use a light application of neatsfoot oil after carving. Some people use a light application of NFO before dying, others after dying, or both. Still not casing with oil.

I guess 2 screws are technically better than 1, but my favorite hunting rifle has worn the same sling with only 1 screw at each end for nearly 30 years of spot and stalk hunting in rough mountain conditions and they haven't come loose yet. The leather is wearing out at those points and I will soon need to make a repair (or build a new sling), but the chicago screws are still holding tight. A small dab of blue loc-tite is good insurance.

I would rather to look at Ebay and local classified ads, yard sales, estate sales and flea markets to find high quality used tools, rather than the cheap Chinese stuff from Amazon. I already made the Amazon Chinese tool mistake and I'm slowly replacing those. Yes, you can find some quality tools on Amazon, but they won't cost any less than dealing with the source retailers. I prefer the local route, so that I can handle and evaluate the tool before I buy. I recently bought a vintage swivel knife at a yard sale for $3 that is much smoother than my Tandy kit knife.

That's certainly a great option. Many crafters use hardware removed from thrift store finds or our own worn out goods.