TonyV

I like to use clear packing tape to laminate the pattern and trace it on cased leather. Taped paper won't tear even on wet leather and I can reuse it several times (especially nice when it's a design I drew myself). I dont have a ball point stylus, so I use a dried-out deadsville ball point pen that I've had for years. Lead pencils can cut the tape and paper and ink pens leave a mess that can spread to the leather.

Yeah, 'simple' doesn't always equal 'easy'. The basic steps are simple enough, but leatherwork can be as simple or as complicated as we make it. Time spent practicing new skills and techniques is never wasted time. I have a box full of scraps that I've kept from my practice of cutting, tooling, sewing, dyeing, edging etc. I don't know why I keep that stuff because I rarely find a re-use for these pieces. But at least I can see where I've improved, as well as where I need to practice a whole lot more. Now, time for me to practice making a holster pattern.

have you tried slip-joint pliers? What type of glue? White glue? Contact cement, water based or other?

to get a deep black I will use a base coat of dark blue, let it dry, then top coat of Fiebings Pro black. This combo makes for a deep rich black. For a milder antique-looking black, I prefer home made vinegarroon. Any dye job I do gets a light coat of NF on top, dry for 24 hrs, then buffed.

You can round the corners if you wish. Modify it any way you like and make it your own. Change the dimensions, rearrange pockets, sew th long line. It's your template now, do what you want. I think those top corners might look better radiused.

You need both. Definitely. But a 12 oz requires less work to use IMO.

Nice! I've tried that same pattern with mules foot stamp but I'm not nearly that good.

I dye 1st, then NF to refresh the leather from the drying effect of the dye. The oil acts like a resist, so I would wait another day or so, then try re-dyeing it by hand. I don't know if you can save it as smoothly as you want to, but you have a learning opportunity here.

yes, that's a bit pricier than the Craftool tools. But Barry King has a strong, well-earned reputation for very high quality and excellent results. As for whether to antique or not, totally your choice. Use a couple practice pieces to determine what it looks like with or without antique.

I sometimes pull the needles out through the layers at the last stitch, tie a square knot very close and tuck it in between the layers, then tap the leather to make the knot disappear. It's invisible, there is no glue and square knot is unlikely to come undone. It doesn't work on all projects, but a sheath is a good candidate.

I like your idea of saving the rawhide. That's some tough stuff. Whacking a shader with a 120 y.o. mallet sounds like fun. OTH, if you do decide to replace any rawhide pieces, you could use some rawhide dog treats. Moisten it in water just until it's pliable, but don't soak it too much, you don't want it soggy (sort of like casing leather) then cut to shape, remembering that it will shrink as it dries. You should be able to restore any damaged pieces that way. But either way, I think the rawhide stack might benefit from some glue or shellac.

Nice quiver, and a great start. Now comes the bow case, wrist guard, finger tabs or gloves and any decorative or other functional items you heart desires. Leather fletching, perhaps?

Envious Recovering from shoulder surgery, I won't be able to lift a long gun for a few months. I did take a grouse with my .22LR revolver a couple weeks ago tho.

Brands, cuts and bruises all give leather a certain character which some people admire., while others abhor. To each his own, utilize the scars to good effect and you will come closer to pleasing most of them. Chrisash, ear tags have been used in N. America for decades. And branding has not been totally abolished in Europe. Tatooing inside the lip is also used here, as well as RFID chips, especially on high value stock. Ear notching is still used on some stock, as well.

Nice patina! A well-used article was much appreciated by your late MIL. Please accept my condolences as well. I made a similar cup for my daughter for her graduation. The box stitch was a learning experience.

Yes, great option, but handsewn looks so much cleaner and professional. Definitely bespoke.

My thought as well. My 1st idea was vinegarroon, until I read the OP Pro Dye and NFO. Does pro dyed in the use some ferrous compound? So if not that, is there some stray piece of steel embeded in the leather? Anything ferrous in the thread?

Love it!

Nice quiver Chuck! Happy shooting.

Are you sanding the edges before burnishing?

I like it!

Quite a unique collection and exquisite work!

The tracing lines will mostly disappear within your tooling, or can be worked into it. I have fouled up tracings before and simply traced in what I wanted over the same piece. My mistakes were only noticeable when I looked for them. Give it a shot. At the very least you'll have a good practice piece.

Beautiful work!

Horse butt, I'm told, is about the best for holsters. Your strip size limits the size of the holsters you could make, though. That weight would be good for lined holsters.