TonyV

She will be proud to use it. Great job. Erin go bragh

Very nice. Worthy of the finest handmade arrows and bow.

hmmmm... leather scented leather soap

Yes, wood contributes to your knife getting dull. Just think of all the opportunity you have to get really good at sharpening and stropping! If you're determined to avoid plastic surfaces, try a softer wood surface, such as plywood, which you would be able to easily replace when needed. But really, the best cutting surfaces are made of plastic. Many of them are made of recycled plastic, if that helps.

Thanks Bruce. Got it bookmarked.

@Gezzer, looks like a 'newsboy' cap.

Nicely done! It looks like it was made for that wall.

Make that 4 Leave It votes. That old patina has its own quality that can't be reproduced.

A leather edge creaser will also provide a below surface channel for stitching, and it was used long before the invention of the groover. The groover is definitely faster and easier to use than a creaser. Both tools can be used for decorative crease/groove around the edge.

Al Stohlman's book How to Make Holsters gives you all the basics for several types of holsters. It's available on Ebay, amazon et. There are dozens of youtube creators that have produced how-to vids on holsters. Some are detailed and excellent quality, others, not so much. Tip #1, be sure to stick with veg tan leather, especially next to the firearm. Chrome tan can cause corrosion. Be careful of the youtube vids, there is at least 1 guy who promotes using chrome to line holsters. Don't do that! When I first reentered leather craft about 20 or so years ago, my first project was a Slim Jim holster for my 1858 New Model Army BP revolver. I used some vague written directions I found on the web somewhere, incorporated some vague memories on how to do things from my childhood leathercraft days, and built a holster that fits, functions and looks just fine, but which I know now was done all wrong. IMO, if it works, it ain't wrong.

It was made that way, most likely. It could be the nature of the beast from which the leather was made. I have some Crazy Horse buffalo, which has a fairly coarse touch even though it is full of wax and/or oils. It wears beautifully with lots of changing character but it sure ain't slick and smooth. Not all leathers are meant to be smooth and polished. When you buy a finished product, that's the finish you get... usually.

The $100 chinese patchers have a swiveling foot, sews in any direction. Use this function instead of turning the project, which can bend or break the needle. They are definitely troublesome, especially at first, but can turn out fairly good work once you learn the quirks and how to adjust them correctly. I only use mine for personal items, not for gifts (I don't sell any of my stuff). If I had known about the one DieselTech referenced, I might have got that one instead.

Nice work. The scales are well centered and, though the pic is a bit our of focus, stitching looks good.

If I have an old, dry piece of leather I want to carve, I will sometimes apply a bit of NFO a day or so before I case it. Seems to help restore the body sometimes, but I'm definitely not casing with oil. Some people use a light application of neatsfoot oil after carving. Some people use a light application of NFO before dying, others after dying, or both. Still not casing with oil.

I guess 2 screws are technically better than 1, but my favorite hunting rifle has worn the same sling with only 1 screw at each end for nearly 30 years of spot and stalk hunting in rough mountain conditions and they haven't come loose yet. The leather is wearing out at those points and I will soon need to make a repair (or build a new sling), but the chicago screws are still holding tight. A small dab of blue loc-tite is good insurance.

I would rather to look at Ebay and local classified ads, yard sales, estate sales and flea markets to find high quality used tools, rather than the cheap Chinese stuff from Amazon. I already made the Amazon Chinese tool mistake and I'm slowly replacing those. Yes, you can find some quality tools on Amazon, but they won't cost any less than dealing with the source retailers. I prefer the local route, so that I can handle and evaluate the tool before I buy. I recently bought a vintage swivel knife at a yard sale for $3 that is much smoother than my Tandy kit knife.

That's certainly a great option. Many crafters use hardware removed from thrift store finds or our own worn out goods.

Leathercraft involves lots of sharp tools, from knives and skivers to edgers and awls. Sharpening and honing your tools is not the most fun aspect of this world, but it is one of the most important and one of the most basic of all the skills you will use. IMO, sharp tools are a pleasure to use and help keep the work fun. As Chuck mentioned, sharpening takes expensive time. Do it yourself and save money.

If you can't find the color you have in mind on a store shelf, start experimenting with mixing your own colors. Virtually any color on earth can be created by mixing other colors. Also, you don't have to limit yourself to "leather edge paint". Do you see a metallic bronze car paint you like? example; a Toyota bronze, just get some of the touch-up paint that matches from an auto parts store. Yes, it will work, even if you have to thin it a bit. The stock leather dyes and paints are just a starting point. Experiment. Mix and match to whatever colors tickle your toenails.

Yes it fits on a belt. The photo on step 2 of the ammo pouch pattern shows quite clearly the belt loops. It's also a very simple matter to add a belt loop(s) to any pouch.

If any of those spots grow or change shapes it could be mold/mildew.

As they say in the military, "Never volunteer for anything".

Great recommendation. Joan at J.H. Leather sews an impeccable stitch has instructional vids on her traditional sewing technique and has a few great vids on making dog collars and leashes. As always, Stohlman is an authority on leatherwork.

Nice holster Jake! The thumb break stiffener is available from Tandy via Ebay or Amazon. I've also seen them made with hardened leather or plastic.

Tallow is just fat/oil. A cleaning with saddle soap might do wonders. It never hurts, and usually helps, to clean before dyeing, anyway. Try it on some scrap and judge the results.