TonyV

My answer remains the same. A little bit of painter's tape to hold it while tracing (not cutting) the pattern. Any residual adhesive, which is rare, is easily cleaned off with denatured alcohol. Easy Peasy. I create most of my own patterns, I know how to make evenly spaced holes without taping up my patterns, and I have never bought anything from etsy. I have learned a thing or 2 about how things are done by listening to more experienced craftsmen, however.

If the paint you're using doesn't stick to the edges, it's not the paint I would want to be using. I use sandpaper on edges when it is to help smooth the edges for painting, and I think 80 grit is way too coarse on edges. I start at 220 grit and up to 400 or 600. depending on the look I want, I'll smooth it with 220, paint the edge and let it dry, sand with 400 or 600 to smooth it out some more, then paint it again. IN rare cases I might include a step to 1200 grit then another coat of paint. Paint doesn't really need a very coarse, rough surface to hold, just not a polished surface. If different acrylic paints are adhering to the edges better than the fancy stuff, I vote for the acrylics (which are used on all sorts of leather products anyway_). But any paint will rub off the edges of items like wallets and belts, sooner or later.

I suspect you're complicating things unnecessarily. Simply taping a pattern to a piece of leather shouldn't be a sticky mess. I don't use the pattern to cut out the leather, I tape the pattern to the very lightly dampened leather, trace it with an awl, remove the pattern and tape, then cut out. Any painter's tape should do just fine. A small bit of tape here and there is plenty to hold the pattern while I trace. Then, removing the painter's tape is a snap. If there is any minor residual adhesive, it is easily removed with a bit of denatured alcohol.

Nice leather and steel. I like your styling. What tool do you use on the bottom one, the scales?

In Texas and other parts of the southern U.S., fancy rigs are referred to as Picnic Guns. It's not uncommon for friends to wear their fanciest sidearms and leather to BBQs.

Sharpening and honing tools are definitely two of the skills that leather workers need to acquire. If you already have those skills, you're steps ahead, just learn the specialty techniques applicable to your edges. Now, start using those tools!

Sometimes the leather will have a finish on it and/or oils from people's hands, which cause a resist on the leather. A light cleaning with denatured alcohol helps a lot in that case. But I agree with AlZilla, embrace the differences in dye effect. It's a natural product with natural variables.

Have you tried looking at Buckleguy.com ?

Yes, they have certain uses and I keep a set in my drawer. They're not great for every cutting purpose, however. Small, precise cuts like filigree, cutting thin leathers and such they can be good. But for most cutting I use a heavier knife, which is much easier to control. I'll bet some of the other responses will say there is no need for exacto knives.

If there ain't no dogs in heaven then I ain't going. To control what dogs chew on there has to be a balance of training and owner vigilance. Any dog can be trained to not chew on objects that aren't good for them, and the key is to give them something better instead. Discipline and reward. Then, keep an eye on them, because any dog will try to get away with it when you're not vigilant about his activities and keeping things out of reach. My 12 y.o. WPG is rock solid about not chewing on shoes, belts etc., but if I leave a piece of rawhide where he can get it, he' will find it and the blame is 100% on me. He's not allowed rawhide, soft toys, cooked bones or brittle plastic toys. He gets all the dental chews, durable rubber toys and balls he can handle. At 12 years old, he has never had any dental problems. Useful commands to teach are; Leave it! Give! Drop! Then give them some praise and a safe alternative. But keep your leather out of reach (placed high, behind closed doors or in a container) and both your dog and your materials will be safe.

Yeah, get the non-adhesive velcro. It's much easier to work with on your machines and sold about everywhere the adhesive type is. Waxed thread in your machine will gunk things up just as bad. If you need to hold the velcro in place while stitching, just use a few sewing pins. Easy peasy. The stitch spacing may need to be adjusted a bit to account for the bulk of the hook n loop. Or just hand sew the velcro so that you have total control of each stitch, which is what I do.

Awfully glad you found a way to stay in the game! And I hope your prognosis includes improvement. Your projects look great and twice as long is twice as nice. Keep it up.

Curved needles are often called mattress needles.

To bevel the edges of belts or any project, you must have a sharp beveler. Also, the leather must be dry. Wet leather and dull bevelers will gouge the edges. A beveler too large for the leather weight will also give you poor results.

Welcome! Leather craft might not keep you out of trouble. Especially if you start looking at some of the more expensive tools

Cleaner... cotton swabs leave fluff behind, foam won't do that.

yeah, edge kote take some practice. Foam swabs can be found on amazon or ebay and come in many different sizes and purposes like hobby, printer cleaning, etc. I use some small fiber optic cleaning swabs left over from an old job for that purpose. I have seen the pencil tip method used to very good effect, but haven't tried it myself. Maybe I will when I run out of swabs. I have had some luck cleaning the edge kote with denatured alcohol and said swabs. It is still a very precise chore. And when all is said and done, you are probably the only one who notices a slight wobble on the straight edge, and that little flaw is what helps it look hand made.

she has an eye for detail and the talent to make it come alive. And your tooling is impeccable. Great teamwork!

I wouldn't do anything about the paint. It's part of the natural "patina" of an old tool that has been well used. And, if, any of these tools happen to be collectible, it may ruin the value. OTH, they're yours, do as you wish. fredk has a good answer. Look at lacquer thinner first before moving on to anything stronger. Repainting might not be worth the expense and work. Might be better off keeping them in the white and use a light oil or wax to prevent rust.

I'm no knife smith so, I would just glue 'em together and wrap 'em in leather ! Please don't hit me :D

try to find an edge (perhaps an internal seam) in which you can see the grain edge-on. If it appears to be all one color, it is probably veg tan. If you can see different colored layers, like a sandwich, it is likely chrome tan.

All valid advise above. There are so many techniques available and you have options to choose and practice with. Fobs are great for learning new skills and methods and I'll add one: Have you tried buffing your finish as the last step? Shining up the outermost face of the piece can make the stamping really stand out.

mmmmm, halibut. My favorite. Grilled with a little lemon and dill. Steak o' the sea. That's a nice holster, too. It can be worn with pride.

I lock it with a square knot between the layers of leather. A correctly made square knot will not come undone under normal circumstances, and the knot gets clamped by the leather when I hammer the stitches. I rarely use glue on knots, but when I do, it's just a tiny dab of white glue.

I've never come across powdered dye for leather. That doesn't mean it doesn't exist, though. Try Google. It might not be called "leather dye", though, perhaps something like "pigment". Customizing your dye should be an exercise in experimentation until you develop your own formulas. Fiebings Pro dye is great stuff, but it ain't the only dye brand. There is Angelus and others. You don't need to rely on "Leather Dye" as your only choice, either. I've seen people get good results from fabric dyes, like Rit. Or maybe powder. Another choice, I use good ol' homemade vinegaroon for a dark gray to black finish. My results vary in intensity and tone, depending on the particular piece of leather, but usually comes out a dark charcoal, almost black, which might be close to what you're looking for. For an aged tan look I use very strong black tea, or very strong black coffee to get a good brown color. Walnut husks and other natural make a great dyes, too. Play around with things and have fun!