Studio-N

Thank you Ben, I will contact him and let everyone know. I'd still like to know if any can makes the molds. I'd think I'd trying to cast them as well, 'cause I just don't have enough hobbies.

It is only about 4 to 5 inches long. It was part of a mini saddle kit for display and also reused in a lamp kit.

Hello. Please take a look at this picture. It is the saddle tree from the old Tandy Ranchero saddle or lamp kit and is about 4 inches long. I picked one of these up on eBay and would really like to make more than one of these. The leather part is easy, but since these are no longer available getting another tree is the problem. However, it occurs to me that obviously this is resin to start off with. So does any one know where I could get this cast commercially to be able to make multiples? Or perhaps there is someone here that might want to make some? Of course the horn should probably point the right way. Any help would be appreciated.

TLF discontinued those at least 3 years ago. Some stores may still have some though. The metallic lace that Hidecrafters carries is RealLeather brand lace. It is also available at your closest Hobby Lobby here in the states.

The pro-oil dye has a conditioner in it. Whether it is neatsfoot oil I don't know. It doesn't dry out the leather in the same way the spirit dyes do, but it does take a lot longer to dry. I usually use it on something made for outside use. I (use to) use neat-lac over the item then some Aussie conditioner with beeswax over that. I'm not sure what I'm going to use once I run out of Neat-lac. I'm sure others will join in with some good suggestions. Cheers!

I am so happy you stated that. I hear that urban legend weekly. I say it is an urban legend because I have never met ANYONE in five years of selling leather who has actually seen it. They have only heard of it from a friend. When probed a little deeper their friend only heard it from another friend. Or - the other way I hear it is much like you stated it, "I THINK" I read it somewhere. Is that a yes or a no? I know people who buy all manner of chrome tanned leather for sheaths, holster liners and rifle scabbards and who never have a problem. So let's hear from everyone - have you ACTUALLY seen this happen with chrome tanned? Was it your gun or another friend story. Ok, not to completely hijack the thread, Veg tan can be molded to shape, dyed to your particular taste and is stiffer which I feel offers more protection. Chrome tan is a soft leather, so whatever you build is a bit floppy due to its softness and stretch. I have only ever used a good vegTan for all of the above. Yet on one loading stick I made (basically a flat board with bullet loops), the brass casings all were corroded by the 3-4 oz veg tanned leather. I do have pictures and will post them. Cheers!

I saw these at a trade show some years ago and ordered it specifically because of the barbs in each corner. I figured what better way to reduce any slippage. However, when I finally got the tool the corners were smooth. I have not ordered since.

check with grey ghost graphics at: http://greyghostgraphics.com/ they have 4 sizes of a petal lifting tool.

This has been around a while...I think it's called a man purse.

Sometimes it pays to be up in the middle of the night. I was up about 2am the other night and got on ebay. Someone had just posted an American splitter: The auction link It had a buy-it-now option and I snagged it. there's a good chance no one else even saw it, but I've always wanted one. It came in today and it was in great shape and works GREAT. I may have to check the sales in the middle of the night more often. Score!

Check www.riorondo.com for miniature saddle kits. They are 1:9 and 1:12 scale.

I love topics like this. When discussing exotics, I think what we are asking is what is the best DENSE wood to use. Exotics usually fit the bill for density. Back when I was doing ornamental turning, I knew a lot more, but the bottom line is that the best dense hardwoods were those that had a density close to, equal to, or better than WATER. If water is the baseline with a density of 1.0, most north american hardwoods fail miserably with a density of around .62 at best for hardwoods like maple (which is tight grained) and a .60 for oak which is more open grain. The best exotics like pink ivory, ebony, Lignum Vitae or blackwood are fantastic with a density greater than 1. I can personally attest to these as after jumping in the shower, the dust from this would just lay there rather than run down the drain. The downside is that these wood are expensive but I've never had any problem with the dust from these. Cocobolo and other south american hardwoods have a greater density than american hardwoods somewhere in the .75-.85 range and are more reasonably priced. They therefore would be better for use for tool use. A lot of these have the same problem as cocobolo in that they have a lot of silicate in them. A couple of excellent north american hardwoods with a high density are Mesquite, which is member of the Legum species and a cousin of ebony. The only thing with mesquite is that it is subject to cracks, so make sure you get a clear piece. The absolute best wood is Desert Ironwood. Ironwood has a density greater than one and is one of the best woods I've ever used for anything. It will have cracks in the core but the wood gets better the further you move from the core. Great stuff if you can find it. A few may also suggest bod'arc (Osage Orange), but I've never cared for it myself as it shrinks and cracks. I hope this helps in some way.

The itching is caused by the silicates in the cocobolo. It can also affect breathing with constant use. I generally wear my tyvek coverall 'space suit' including respirator while cutting or turning it. Just make sure you wash up any exposed areas after working with it an you should be fine. As for pricing, 15 pieces of 1.5x1.5x30 is 7 bf or about $22 per board foot. That seems to be the going rate at Tropical Exotic HW and Eisenbrand. It's been a while since I bought any - that stuff sure has gone through the roof. Maybe I should sell of some of my private stock. :-)

Saddle soap seems to work just fine for me when tightening the knots from roo lace.

Hello. USMC black is what is termed a 'blue-black' color. It has a slight blue sheen which is prevalent on police and military gear. It reflects more light as a result of the blue component. IMHO, this is why many people complain that their projects aren't black enough because it is this version of black they are using. The box labeled as simply black is a 'brown-black' color and has a darker hue of black than the USMC. hope this helps.

Your friend is pretty lucky. This purse is a great looking chap inspired project.

Sheepswool definately works the best because it has some natural oil left in it. Besides, that an old T-shirt works just fine.

Hello and Welcome. Buffing accomplishes two things. First and foremost - when you dye leather, it will absorb dye to the point of saturation. Once dry, you have a residue left over on the surface of the layer. A very common novice mistake is to apply a finish without buffing the leather. This is one reason why the finish will crack. It did NOT bond to the leather as intended. Instead, you have a barrier of residue between the leather and the finish. So in short, we buff the leather to remove the residue and to expose the leather surface for the sheen to bond to. The second reason is to create shine. There is no rule that says you have to apply a finish. However, when you first dye the leather, you will find it looks quite dull. Buffing the leather creates a nice polish with just the dye. After a finish is applied and dries, it again serves to create a shine or light reflection. You have control how much gloss you get by the amount of buffing you apply. Hope this helps. Cheers!

Completely over the top! I love it.

Aw thanks, I'm blushing all over. Actually I think it's poison ivy I picked up at the park during the renfair the next day. Ouch, Ouch, Itchy, Itchy. -Nick

Hello. I know that many people recommend a head or round knife, which does work very well but there is a learning curve in becoming proficient with it. I prefer to use an industrial scalpel, such as: Industrial Knife One major difference of course is that you cut on a PULL which most people are already comfortable versus cutting on a push. If find it works well on all leathers. The straight blade that comes with it is for use as a paring knife, but the hooked scalpel blade works for straight lines and curves. Just my 2 cents worth.

I'm going to second esantoro's recommendation. I use Aussie Conditioner with Beeswax on a lot of items. I did a class where I had separate pieces of leather with Super Sheen (Acrylic), Neat Lac, Tan Kote (resin finish) and Aussie Conditioner with the beeswax. I poured water on all and let it sit. After 10 minutes the water had just started to penetrate the waxed piece. the Super Sheen and NeatLac had a big spot, but showed it holds up fairly well. The tan kote was the worst of the bunch. It didn't have a spot - the whole piece had soked in. Realizing that the Aussie would have to be reapplied occasionally, I still prefer it. Besides, it is a conditioner after all and should be periodically added anyway. 'Nuf said. peace.

Thanks to all who replied. I'm gonna try a couple of them listed.

Hello. Anyone have a good wholesale dealer of metallic cowhides? These would be mostly for trim and fringe, but the body may be done as well. Thanks in advance.

Now THAT'S COOL.