bruce johnson

Greg, I was taught at the "Playtex 18 hour cross your heart bra school of amateur bronc riding". I'm getting old, that was 20 plus yrs ago??? Still seems like funny advice now, but I remember it. "Okay, Ladies, we are going to lift and separate". Lift and separate. LIFT up not back on whatever you got (rein or handle, although a nightlatch kind of fits a bit like a bronc rein) and SEPARATE your knees when you lift to get a deeper hold and slide you back down. Then there was all that bow your back/don't arch, you only grab to your knees, eyeball the spot 4" behind their ears (like I saw that very much), tuck your chin, don't squeeze your cheeks, and of course Dave Stamey's musical advice "Don't forget to stay loose!"

Kate, I really think that HideCrafters have a good chance to reinvent themselves again. I was a pretty early customer when they formed. They filled a niche by having a line of tools that were not available or limitedly available from George's previous employer. They had a choice of better quality wallet inserts, leathers, and better conchos and hardware. They had tutorials and books that were more than just from one source. Then as they progressed, they tried to be all things to everyone - cheaper tools, duplicate lines of tools, their own "house brand", low end hardware, and competing on things they just shouldn't have been. It was pretty frustrating to have pay for a wholesale club membership when I had a resale number already. Later on they rethought that policy. Then there were the supply issues at times, for various reasons. Everyone is worried about them cutting inventory. More power to the new guys, they should. Get rid of the dead wood - the poor quality lines that don't perform, and the stuff every craftstore, ebay store, and other suppliers sell at little margin. I have mixed feeling on dropping Ellis' tools but suspect that was Ellis' decision. It may not pay to inventory high end tools either though. By the time a guy gets to that level, we know Ellis's phone number or buy them at the show. Keep the suppliers happy. There is obviously room for a few players in this game. If they stock the good stuff that will move, listen to that customer base, and don't compete based on previous mistakes, I think they will do fine. The biggest issue right now seems to be the transition. In retropect, they may almost be better to shut down, retool and restock, come out with the catalog or site that says "here's what we will be selling" and then reopen. It would save a lot of the current frustration with products no longer carried, severe backorders, and shortages. Ron seems to be a decent guy when I talked with him. I really liked Andy. I know the new guys are all running their own businesses too. I hope they can keep a good staff in FW.

Ryan, The Cheaney videos are good. Especially basic about tools and equipment needed. They are a bit redundant from one to the next, but you could take any one set and get most of the basics. Jeremiah's are geared toward making a Wade, as is Bill Gomer's, and Dale Harwood's. So are several of the books. The basics are still there. The only thing they don't show is doing welted fork covers. Everything else pretty much transfers directly over. The post horns also give you some options for covering horns that a metal horn doesn't. Jeremiah's set tells you a lot of the "whys" the others don't. Harry Adams' book takes you through building a Wade, and drawing up your cutting patters based on the tree and not cookie cutter shapes. The second section covers a lot of variations like welted swells, different riggings, horn coverings, etc. Jason, There are a lot of schools for sure. I would agree that personal instruction is the way to fly too. I think that the OP related that they had little background. I think you need to have some "book knowledge" before going in. I also think you need some background in using a saddle too. That will give you a foundation for what is being explained and demonstrated. Everybody does it differently. You have to pick and choose what works for you from everybody. Kind of like learning surgery, you don't pick up a scalpel and go to cutting. Likewise you don't read and look at videos and they turn you loose on the public. With a bit of a knowledge base, and then practical instruction and supervision, things go better. One thing for sure is I wouldn't go into a school and say "That's not how _____ ________ did it in the video or book". You are there to learn another way of skinning the cat. When you get home, try new methods, and then pick what works for you.

Kate, I bought some of the early SS ones and found them to be amazingly like some I have from another maker. Good stamps to start with and a value. Regarding the dark ones...I had several. They look really nice, and give a decent impression. Nice prices too. I bent them. I broke them, some just snapped. A friend who gave me his freebie from a LCSJ subscription prize as an example. Phone calls revealed no problems with them. Emails ditto. Finally after a few more and photo of them in their stages of manglement, I was told they did have some problems. The explanation was that they were not for professional use. Apparently a guy who stamps a lot with a 16 and 24 oz maul will damage them, and an amateur won't. My wife damaged one, so maybe that explanation is a bit off too. These are the only stamps I have ever had fail. Finally (after they saw I had a photo to share with their name clearly in focus), they told me to box up what I had left and ship them back for credit. Make sure you have duplicate backups. Nothing more frustrating than to get about halfway down a belt and have to either toss it or finish it with a stamp with a jagged 2" shank. Hopefully everyone else's mileage is better.

Andrew, They don't make them anymore, but still fix them. They are just OK, but there are other machines that get the job done. I tried one, and found speed control to be an issue. You can control it, but by dialing it mostly. Servo motors on electrin machines have more control and range.

Darcy, That strap contrary to some popular doesn't look to me like it will "connect and stabilize" the pull from the cinches. Basically the pull is straight down on both rings and that strap won't transfer stress. What it will do is make a ramp and fill in behind the front ring to help your stirrup leather slide up and over it. Some patterns have a tab that extends up and covers the corner, others are just a flat strap. I put them on every regular Dee rigging like that. I have had ropers wear them out, and not the kind of guys who fix much. They bring them to replace that strap after they hang a leather in it trying to face.

Kate, A few experiences. You need to use your favorite method to limit stretch obviously. For things that really need to fit tight. I cut them oversize and mark out my tooling area. Tool it, let it dry thoroughly and then cut it out. For something like that, I would make my first cut 1/8-3/16" oversized for the inlay area. See if it will work in and compress. If not, trim a skoche (sp?) off and try again. As you have already found, it will compress more than it will stretch. Especially for inlays, this works the best for me.

Art, We actually have a couple threads going on these buckles right now. I replied about I use them in the "Hardware&Accessories" section under "Need Saddle Hardware quickchange buckles". Probably a moderater with more technical skills than me should merge these posts and move them to the "saddle section". I'll get a lesson on that and try it. Johanna tells me I can't break anything, but I do actually have a broken bench anvil I could post a picture of.

Doug, Nope, not too bulky. The advantages are they are shorter lengthwise than a coupled Blevins with the sleeve. The shorter length lets them twist easier, good for short legged riders. The round rod rides over a latigo easier than a Blevins slide. Especially a Blevins slide that is worn a bit and that metal corner is sticking out. They are quickly changed. Disadvantge is that you need to make a keeper to put below the buckle to keep the bottom pin in the leather or it hinges from the hook on top. I think the ad said they were good for twisted stirrup leathers, they are not. My happiest customers with them are barrel racers. They are shorter legged riders, and compete at a high level. They have given them acid test, and I am hanging onto what I have for them. When I first got them, I changed out buckles on some flagging and grand entry saddles for a contracter too. They work good for that. No slide to drop off into the mud when you are doing a quick arena change.

Doug, The Fast Buckles are on the left side of the picture. The top post is a hook and the bottom is straight. The Superior buckle is one the right of the picture and both pins are straight. I am pretty sure the ad as I recall was for the Fast Buckles. The Superiors have been around by another name (Kreager) since before Blevins I recall. I answered this on your other thread, but the Fast Buckles are not commercially available anymore. The Superiors are still available.

Doug, Just a point of clarification. I think you are describing the Superior Quick Change buckles that Sonny Felkins is making. A post set up and a flat strap on the other side you lock the pins into? If so that is made by Sonny Felkins in Monticello, UT. Sheridan Leather Outfitters is where I got my last ones from. Weavers did have them in the catalog, not sure if they still do. The Fast Buckles were made by/for Ben Veach. They were a made from round rod. They had a hook for the top post and a straight post below that. You need to use a keeper to keep the bottom pin in there? If that is what you are looking for - bad news. Ben sold the rights to someone who has still not come forward that I have heard. I used a fair amount of them, good for some uses. I asked Ben, and he would not or could not say who bought the rights, and whether they would ever be available for sale to makers again. I know Circle Y used a lot of them on some saddles, but according to someone who knew a guy high up there, they were not the buyers. Leaves a few other potentials, but again - no word who.

JRedding, Nice work, welcome to the board. Looking forward to more of your work.

Greg, Try the LM shearlings first. I used to be a Lazy M user. When I went to visit Siegels a a little over a year ago, I took a swatch of Lazy M to see if Steve could get something close. He got in the LMs a month or so later. The wool color is more the golden traditional color, not as orange as the Lazy M. The actual leather is pretty thick also. Wool density and length seems better too. I have had people who have no clue feel both and tell me which feels denser. About 3 to 1 for Steve's. I had about 10 Lazy M's when Steve got in the LMs. I have been using them up on the relines, and using the LMs on the new ones. If you want a swatch, let me know.

Ron, Good question. Prior to cyber meltdown last week, we had a pretty thorough section of lively discussion on books, videos, and other resources. It will be back. In my short list in no particular order. The Stohlman series of books are good and thorough. You need them all, if for no other reason than a wide knowledge base to build on. Those books are not the end all, and Al Stohlman was A saddlemaker, not THE saddlemaker. Saddle Makers Shop Manual is my go-to printed resource. Lot of variations, but assumes a working knowledge. Videos - Jeremiah Watt series is necessary to me. About as complete as it gets. Bill Gomer has one a little more abbreviated, but good points and a few tricks. Dale Harwood has a good one too. You couldn't build one from Dale's, but once you have built a few, your next one will be a lot better after watching this one. As far as schools ????? I think you could learn how to build a saddle just like the guy you learn from teaches. The more background you have going in, the more you will learn what you don't know. Philosophy now. I think a saddlemaker has to have a definite and personal experience with the type of purpose you are building a saddle for. You have to know the "whys" first before you can do the "hows". Seat shape is critical for optimum performance, which is not always the same as rider comfort. Stirrup swing, rigging types and advantages of different styles all play into the mechanics of the top side. Fit, rigging style and position play into the bottom side. The good news, there are probably more instructional opportunities now than ever before building saddles. Everything from books, videos, schools of different lengths, classes at several leather trade shows now, and saddlemakers talking. You are in a good place right here.

Art, For everyone who has not heard the term, a "nightlatch" is something to grab onto to prevent getting bucked off. Basically something to lift against to keep you down in your saddle. As an aside, unless that guy is left handed, or reins with his right hand for some other reason, a nightlatch should be on the right side of the swells. I am not sure how that one is fastened. Some people use a loose strap buckled through the gullet. You grab it kind of like a suitcase handle. I have heard it termed a "knucklebuster night latch". as the horse is pitching his little fit, your knuckles are banging on the swells. Another style is a doubled pigging string with thetail pulled out of the eye. Double it and feed it through the gullet. Then bring the eye and the tail up through the formed loop. You grab the free ends of the string. Other guys use a similar one made from a rope or braided rope witrh a small eye. Looped aroungd the gullet and fed through the eye. Some guys feel that the firm attachment of the knucklebuster could be an issue if you do hang up a spur or toe in it on the way out. The single eye rope, or doubled string is thought to be safer, it will pull loose. Most guys are carrying a couple strings, so it is a handy place to carry one anyway. Other guys dispense with the nightlatch and pull on the rope coils. All in what you are carrying, and where you learned it at. Greg, Ryan, and some of the guys who have been around have probably seen other variations or terms.

Elton, I have used a couple quarts of it, and am on my 3rd. It is pretty good, not sure what is in it. Greg said he has the base Ron mixes it up from. Makes a nice edge. It is what I usually use on belt edges I am not going to dye. Ron sells a marking pen kind of set up to apply it with. That works OK.

Bill, I use a standard 45 mm rotary cutter. It will do everything from pig lining up to skirting for me. I use a 48" aluminum rule as a guide for it when I do straight lines. I also use the scalloping blades and pinking blades as well. Rgrbitz, 1. bench chisels that I sharpened up. I use them to cut slits of a repeatable length. I also use them to cut out inlays. Also makes a good starting slit for my crown splitter. I hit them with a maul. 2. Bench top belt sander - to true up edges and sand off glue boogers on edges. To thin tips and folds on straps when needed. Minor shaping, won't scorch easily like a Dremel or small sanding drum. 3. Bench top drill press - two of them - one to chuck mini and maxi punches to punch holes. Turn it on and try it for yourself. The other has one of Norm Lynds' edge burnishers permanently chucked. 4. I have a "third hand" clamp mounted on my cutting table. It is a leather tool, and makes holding a piece while I strip it a breeze. However on my other bench I have a toggle clamp. Barry King showed me this. They have a rubber tip and will hold the end of a strap while I pull against it to slick edges. They don't leave marks on finished leather like the 3rd hand. I bought mine at Harbor Freight for about $6. Just do a google search for bench toggle clamp to see what they look like. 5. shop press for small clicking, embossing, press molding. 6. Dremel for shaping and modifying tools, smoothing and trueing tight inside curves on leather. Keep it moving or it will scorch. 7. Auto Body dolly (oval) with handle- I put the handle in the Hardy hole of my shoeing anvil. Makes a nice stake to flatten seams inside bags on. 8. Shoeing anvil - setting rivets, it doesn't move. The horn and heel are good to set rivets inside bags with too.

Bill, From Siegel I order heavier weight tooling, skirting, USA greasy waxy latigo, lining, LM shearlings, commercial oak for lining, work chap, diamond tan, and Osborne tools. Compare the cost of an Osborne round knife there and from craft sellers. From Hide House I order lighter weight tooling leather. Exotics from Jerry VanAmberg. For TLF, I order from Clovis usually. Ed is very knowledgeable. I order the chemicals, some hardware, lining pig, some odd lots once in a while. Hoping the new guys do well with HideCrafters. I had some issues with the George and Jane show. From Ferdco - needles and thread. Hardware mostly from Walsall if a big order. Some from Weaver, but try to avoid it. Shipping takes too long to where I live and have had enough problems and uninformed telephone reps. As an aside, their mauls are not made by a local Amish craftsman. Barry King lives in Sheridan, WY. If they are the only game, then they are it. Otherwise I order their resale line from whoever really makes it. Some stuff from Ohio Travel Bag, but again not much or lately. Most silver from Hansens. Stirrups from Trina Weber. Other hardware from Bork, Jeremiah Watt, and the local tent and awning supply or surplus. Stamps from Barry, TLF, Wayne Jueschke, Jeremiah Watt, and a few from Ellis Barnes. Tools from TLF, Barry King, Jeremiah Watt, Ron Edmonds, Wayne Jueschke, Bob Douglas, mostly. Another source that has been mentioned already. Sheridan Leather Outfitters stock a lot of useful stuff. For a small order to fill in, I have started ordering there, and will continue. If I need just some rings, stirrup buckles, or whatever - they are my new go to place. Better than making an order with someone else and padding it to meet the minimum order fee, and then shipping costs. I'll be doing more business with them as time goes on.

I am probably not going to change anyone's mind here, but my 2 cents. I have been a Siegel customer for several years. In that time, in a particularly trying time in my life Siegels did something for me personally that has pretty well shown me what kind of caring people they are from top to bottom. I will be a customer until one or the other us close our doors. That said, the issue is back orders. Yep, I get from them too. I also get them from every other supplier. I have ordered from one of the above mentioned great suppliers and get zipper tape, top stops, and bottom stops. I need them by Friday so I can spend the weekend putting gussets together and assembling a bunch of planners. The zipper slides are backordered I find out when I open the box Fri. afternoon, at anyplace within 150 miles driving distance. I order from another supplier mentioned. I fill out my order to make the minimum with checkbook inserts. Ordered something like 25, they ship 23. A month later I get the other 2, along with a statement for under a dollar for the inserts, a minimum order surcharge, and about $6 for shipping. They stuck them in an envelope and mailed them for about 50 cents. I order from yet another from the list of folks above and get a full side with a forklift track the length of the side, yep it was sold as tannery run, run over at the tannery. Want to spend a fun time on the phone, talk to anyone about a return there. Order thread for top and bobbin and get two way dissimilar shades of brown neither one the color they show in their catalog. Ordered a set of edge bevelers from yet another place mentioned, I get edge creasers. I gave them THEIR catalog number, and that was on the packing slip also. I paid for shipping and was expected to pay for return shipping. I need some rigging rings, 4" bronze, a big tree and supply outfit is shipping them along with some other supplies. Friday comes, the saddle is sitting here for the re-rigging, and no rings in the box, they are held up somewhere and backordered. I am a second business. I work from 4:00 am until time to feed and go to work, then at night and weekends. When I need something, I need it too. Most of the time I need to be a better inventory manager too. These are all reputation places who have been in business a while. They are going to have problems with supplies and orders at times. I don't run a website or catalog business, but I expect that it is not a simple deal to change a site to reflect a particular out of stock item. They are dealing with someone bigger than them keeping them supplied. Little things like short supplies, bigger demands in China, clearing customs, container off loading schedules, blizzards, refused orders due to quality, all affect our suppliers. They would like nothing more than to have no backorders also. Unless they are profiting from shipping and handling charges, they are losing money too. I guess I learned a while back that I ask if everything is in stock no matter who it is. After a few experiences, it just is prudent with everyone. Moreso if I am out. Sometimes they don't know. The order taker is on the phone and the puller is in the warehouse. They have 12 sitting on a pallet, and the other phone rep just took an order for 11. Establish a relationship with the rep, and tell them you want to know about backorders, what you want for quality, what shape you need for the side (long and skinny for reins, or deep for bags, etc). At Siegels, you are talking to a rep who has probably spent time pulling orders in the warehouse and knows what you are talking about back there. I would much rather get personal and know the name of the person I am ordering from than hit keys anyday. People complain about "being a number" and then order by fax or internet when they have a telephone number. Maybe I am too old for this deal.

I would seriously consider a drop plate/flat plate/Montana plate rigging. More leather, but more stirrup swing and I think balanced pull and strength for a using saddle. I have a Ford, Chevy, and Dodge pickup in the yard, so I am pretty open minded. I have built dee ring on skirt/off skirt, in-skirt, dropped ring, EZ dee, and plates. I like plates the best for all around use. Each of the others (maybe not the round ring or EZ dees so much) have some limitations for me.

I am sure that HO and W/C are still soaking hides. If they weren't Dr Dan from Shoptalk would have it cover page news and probably put out a special edition. He was Johnny on the spot for a few other rumors that proved out to be true lately. They are right though, that nobody in the US is doing double shoulders, or at least was at last count. Regarding the stretch marks on double shoulders, that just comes with the territory on shoulders sometimes. Hides behave the way they did on the living beast. The head is going up and down all day with eating and chewing. Backs don't move much. Flanks move a lot. Some of this can be used to our advantage. For instance, orienting a checkbook, photoalbum or planner so the fold is parallel with the way the cow moved makes it easier to stretch and make that fold. Trying to fold a strap from 4" off the centerline of the back is tighter fibered and might crack at a buckle fold. Some customers think you are using dry crappy leather when they see a stretch crack, when in fact you are using a prime part of the side. Obviously warm water and working the fold can prevent cracks, but you have to know what the hide did. Bellies are thinner usually and expand and contract all day with breathing, filling up on feed and water, and emptying. They are stretchy and not as tight a fiber. Flanks are constantly moving, they are the most stretch. Some guys take it pretty far. The rumen fills up the left flank. Throughout the day on some cattle, it can stretch and contract a lot. I had one OLD saddlemaker tell us that in the old shops the foreman would cut stirrup leather for the good saddles only from right sides. They thought the left sided straps had a little looser fiber and more stretch. Old men are generally wise, and I try to follow that rule out of respect (and a good story). It is pretty important in saddle work to use a part of the hide that will work for the application. Some things need to have little stretch like leathers and riggings., Others need to mold by stretching and compressing like a swell cover. Others just sit there. Some will curl if cut from too loose area. You really learn how sections behave doing that. Shoulders are kind of unique. They flex front to back and are looser fibered than further back. They also cup over the shoulders and wrap around the neck. The lower aspects are getting down into the areas of the upper leg with some motion. It can get looser again. We cut this off the animal and are taking a bowl and making it flat. Because of the looser fibers it compresses together and makes a flatter piece. The excess can however make these ridges that are often called fat wrinkles. There are probably more wrinkles on the neck of a skinny old butcher cow than a fat steer. I think it is more a factor of excess skin than fat. Another factor are the heavier cattle and Brahma influenced breeds that get a little (or big) hump in their shoulders. Some of these shoulders are sold as "V cut" shoulders. They will have a V shape were a slice was made into them to provide relief so they could flatten out the piece. I have seen some shoulders in the flyers at times that even had a piece cut out of the center, that was excess hump leather cut out. Because of the natural stretch being front to back and less stretch side to side, most belts cut from shoulders are done crosswise. If the shoulders are long enough, they won't get into the looser ends with most belt ends. also because the wrinkles (compression) is linear with the belt, there will be realtively less stretch. When I was doing a lot of wholesale work, I did a lot of photoalbums and planners. I liked shoulders because I could orient them so the wrinkle worked to my advantage when making folds. Make the fold parallel with the wrinkle. Also the fat wrinkles on those sort of things added interest to the piece if they weren't tooled. They usually tooled OK and weren't noticeable when they were. That leather will also fold and compress and stay pretty flat. I could wet and stretch back leather OK, but when the fold was flattened out again, it wouldn't compress back and stood up as a wrinkle. Minor issue usually, but why cut hard firm leather and fight it when shoulders were less expensive and worked better for that application? There are some that argue that belts shouldn't come from shoulders. we should be cutting them out of backs where the leather is firm, less stretch on the billet ends. Probably true to a point. In reality, I have stretched faster than any belts I have made for myself in the last several years. In fact, would welcome one that gave me about an inch every few years. My next Wranglers might move me into the $2 upcharge. Probably more than you wanted to know about leather, but I am waiting for finish to dry and then set some snaps.

I started out with an Adler 205-64 when I upgraded from the Boss. It was a great machine, but had a couple drawbacks. It didn't have needle guide or center presser foot. It had a feed dog underneath that came up through the throatplate. The hole in the feed dog was fairly small. If I got much deflection with heavy leather (like reusing holes sometimes, or sewing tunnel loops onto back cinches), the needle would miss the hole and hit the feed dog. Then I for sure snapped the needle, and on occasion broke or bent the feed dog. Finally got a heavy duty feed dog that just snapped the needle. I now have a two year old Pro 2000, and a Juki 2000 when Ferdco was still using the original Juki frames. They have the bigger hole in the bottom (diamond shaped). I am with Ed, not sure how much that helps, but the center presser foot dang sure keeps the needle from deflecting much, and my backside lines are straight. I have not snapped a needle in either 2000 yet. Curiosity question for the other 441 clone owners. I have never seen the underneath of any but mine. What kind of feed dog do they have? Also for the different Artisan 4000 models, I know the head is lighter in one of the 4000s, is the feed the same in both of them and the 3000?

Dave, You asked in the thread on clickers about my bell knife skiver. I started this thread to keep things on track and more searchable in the future. I bought a bell knife skiver last spring. I have a Landis handcrank skiver, and at one time I had a pair of 3-in-1s sitting around too. I still have the Landis, and have it set up for skirting, great job getting the meat off the edges of ground seat buildups. Poor for softer leather. Originally I was going to buy one of the new skivers that Artisan. Ferdco, and others all have a version of. A friend told me of Melanie Machine in LA. Kind of a warehouse of leather machinery. I called and talked to Arnold Kay, the owner. This is an aside here. I told Arnold what I was looking for. He had the new versions, as well as a couple used Fotunas. We talked on the phone for a while, and he told me to just bring my leather and come down. He would make the 700 mile round trip worth it. In talking with other guys who have these, they universally told me that a bell knife skiver will not do a good job on vegtan leather unless you have a top and bottom feed. Those were a little over my price range. I threw some vegtan into the sack anyway, and hit the road. You have to realize that I hate driving south of the "grapevine", so Arnold impressed me with his knowledge. Melanie Machine is a museum of working leather machinery. He has one guy that pretty much just walks around dusting machines and cleaning all day. It is not your typical equipment warehouse. Arnold has been in the business for a good while. At one time he had a shoe factory kicking out 5000 pairs a day for Sears. He knows machines, and when the domestic shoe business dried up, went into machinery. He has stitchers, flatbeds, a ton of kickpresses, bandknife splitters, and clickers looked like you could crush a truck with. Arnold had a couple skivers set up for me, the new one and a used Fortuna. They both did the job on chap leather and latigo. I asked about doing vegtan, and he said no problem up to about 11 oz with the bottom feed. The key is changing the feedwheel. They all come with a stone feedwheel standard. It does a fine job feeding the softer leathers. On vegtan if it slips a little, it glazes up the wheel, scorches the backside of the leather, and won't feed. Exactly what everybody else told me it would do, including some other sellers. Arnold put in a steel feedwheel. It has grooves like the feedwheel on handcrank sole splitter. The presser feet for vegtan have rollers in them. With this combination, it feeds well. I ended up and bought the Fortuna because of the heavier casting and ease of changing the wheel. I was planning to haul it hime and save shipping. He wouldn't let me. He wanted his mechanic to change out a belt and a few springs, and tune it up. Stuff that would have taken more time than expected, so he shipped it. Good guy to deal with. I use mine for skiving edges of chap leather for seams in bags and purses. I use it to split mulehide and latigo for horn wraps. In fact I had some really heavy mulehide I split a strip and the skiving was usable also - 2 for 1. Biggest thing I use it for is thinning edges evenly on vegtan for projects. I can use heavier leather than I might for planners or checkbooks, stuff like that. I thin the edges down so they are not so clunky looking and then I put in my folding grooves. Then I have a little more meat in the tooling area than with thinner leather, and can tool deeper. I can use up more scraps that way from heavier leather. Other than a side of thin leather for wallets, I haven't bought any tooling leather under 7/8 since I got the skiver. The skiver is pretty easy to use. I dealt for the stone and steel feedwheels, and the presser feet it looked like I would need when I bought it (have used tham all too). I have never changed out the wheel, the steel will feed the soft stuff too. The feet change out easily, and adjust easily also. By sitting down with Arnold and trying the machines, I got some tips and tricks that probably aren't in the manuals too. There are still some things I handskive, but between the Landis handcrank and the bell knife, not much.

Elton, I use a hydraulic shop press. About all I plan to click is small stuff, no saddle parts, so it works for me. A piece of steel on the bed with a piece of HDPE cutting board for the base. I put another piece of steel big enough to cover the die on the leather and crank away. You only need to let off enough to slide the work out and another one in. The detracters of the shop press say that it is like jacking your car up every time. I guess it would be if one is practical thinkingly challenged and lets the it go all the way up every time. I find that 4-5 strokes will cut through my skirting, less for thinner leather. I have a 20 ton. I also use it for press molding cases, back cinch tunnel loops, stuff like that I couldn't do as easily with a clicker. I also use it for embossing plates. The cost difference from 5-20 ton is not much, but the beefier frame on the 20 ton was noticeable. When I researched this, I had a guy who I trust tell me he had broken a lighter jack, and I expect it made a mess. I trusted him and forked over the extra $40, figuring that $40 wouldn't cover my time to clean up hydraulic oil and the leather it would ruin. Then there is that whole other bad words and falling from grace issue that would probably happen too. I have dies from Big Sky and Texas Custom Die. The TCD dies are very good and I got them quickly. They were 4" round and square dies for my wife to convert my scraps into coasters and $$$. I have latigo and cinch carrier dies I ordered from Big Sky along with a few spur strap patterns. Good prices and quick shipping for off the rack dies. Good quality also. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend either place. I picked off a few spur strap dies on ebay a couple years ago also. They are the shorter dies (3/4") but work well also. Another money maker and project is that the tab end of spur straps also double as key fobs (more $$$). In the words of my good friend Go2Tex, "one man's scrap is another man's key fob". Dave, I was looking into clickers a while back, and then kind of priced myself out of one (got a bell knife skiver instead). Both Artisan and Ferdco are now selling hydraulic clickers in a few sizes, along with the other big time clicker folks. I found that the price difference from small to large clickers was percentage wise not a lot. There are a bunch of used ones around, but with what they weigh, you don't just go pick one up and try it out. There are some happy campers with the Tippmanns, and some that aren't. Not being able to move the platen looks to be a bit of a handicap to me with those. Tippmann referred me to "satisfied customer" who offered to sell me his small one. Not sure where you are, but Melanie Machine in LA had some big hydraulics. I think that the guy from TN who sells used machinery here probably has a line on some too. For saddle parts, I would talk to someone who clicks out their pieces like Crates or one of the other factories and see what they are using for clickers and die makers.

I got my modelers yesterday. Thanks to Jim and TLF for donating these. I REALLY did NOT tell Clay that the the modelers I use the most are ball modelers and the undercuts (deerfoot?). That's what I got, thanks mi amigo. I ceremoniously dumped the old ones and played Taps on harmonica. That old gray plastic coating had chipped off long ago, and the duct tape handles were not the most attractive.