J Hayes

Will the dealer not offer a servo motor instead of the clutch motor?

Thanks

AKA spring bar, measured typically in mm between lugs. Some commercial bands will have a piece of vinyl type tube in them for thr spring bar to pass through, some even have a ss tube in them. Make the band a good snug fit between the case lugs, a sloppy fit can sometimes cause the spring bar to come out easily. Good luck, but most importantly have fun.

Nice tip. I have me a 4 quarter belt.

Just curious what everyone is doing for carry belts. Made myself one from 2 layers of 8/9, ends up just over 1/4", .29" thick. I like it but it may be too thick for some holsters. I stopped the inside layer just before the buckle tongue slot. Thanks Jeremy Merry Christmas to all, or Happy Holidays, whichever applys

Very nice work, very nice. Someday I'd like to learn how to make a pair.

Those will probably be much much better on the trail than the original ones you posted. They seem to be some sort of custom fit? Your Redwing dealer carry USA made shoes? I know the ones here in Wisconsin don't, or at least not the loggers, and the Chinese made ones seem way off in sizing, well for Carolina brand anyway.

Nice! I happen to have a whole box of stainless ones. Thanks Jeremy

I like a stout belt too. Also like that stout buckle, nice. Pardon my ignorance here but the staples, are you using a P35 type or something else? Thanks Jeremy

+1 for Roger, I use his double shoulder veg tan 8/9 oz, really nice stuff, clean and a smooth back. Nice guy too. The prices on the veg tan double shoulder I thought were real good, better than the big names.

+1 for Bruce

Nicely done. Do you cut both halves to 1 1/2 then cement? Try a rotary cutter, 60mm fiskars, awesome. How did you do the keeper? Do you skive the ends at all where the buckle is?

Anybody ever make a pair of choppers? I'd like to make myself some, what would be the best leather to use? Something with the fur on, or just a rag wool liner. I've Thank Jeremy

Yeah I kinda figured they would be fine, I know I can't pull apart something I glue. Everything else on the boot looks good, none of the other 3 have poor stitching, just this one and it has 5 or 6 loose stitches. I hate ordering stuff....

Got a new pair of kicks, took 2 pair and waiting to get the right size, I wanted US made ones and nobody carries them. Anyway the size is now right but the sole has many loops in the bottom thread, anybody see a problem with this? Thanks Jeremy

A fork can also make a nice stitch spacer, my lunch todsy contains a 6 spi fork in fact, the spacing between tines is almost exactly the same too. :-) Nice kit!

Weaver sells this one to work with thier own tools, looks nice to me, anybody have one? For centering one may be able to use a self centering dowling jig used in woodworking. Ive been meaning to try mine but they will need modification. I have 2, one US made one which is really nice and accurate, Pro Center brand, and one from Harbour Freight which is not so accurate. I have a table top drill press that will eventually get a woodworking type fence and use that for repetitive tasks. YMMV Jeremy

They have a nice selection of stuff, good buckle assortment. I'm interested to hear about your punch, maybe you can sell a few stumps....

enjoy

They maybe are still using threads from before the standardization too. If they were smart they'd sell a sharpening "stump". I got some strap end punches and a bag punch from Beiler's their "house" brand and I gotta say those are awesome! All were very useable right outta the box, nearly a mirror finish on them all, unlike the poor blunt edge on the Osborne bag punches I got awhile back. Yeah im trying to avoid new Osborne stuff too.

I think Travers tool sells non standard taps and dies. You could possibly even use on of the tips to tap brass, cut a few flutes in it and bingo. I just got one of their K157 (I think) mini punch set, each tip appears to have a different minor thread diameter and half of the set won't thread in fully. Hopefully your set is more consistent. Oh and half the set has a blunt end in need of much sharpening, sadly.

Anybody know which draws more vacuum? The single stage one(#98076) states 75 micron/ 10 Pascal, 2.5 cfm.The two stage one (#66466) states 25 mmicron/3 Pascal, 3 cfm. I would assume the single stage is more powerful? Just a tad slower on the cfm rating?

Yeah he felt it. He never really paid attention to much, kinda a space cadet, good guy just kinda out there. I was sitting at my machine sewing a belt wishing i had a guide on the left. Flattop came with mine, I will be giving it a facelift. Actually might do that to my Singer too. Its amazing how the simplest solutions can sometimes escape us.

I didn't see the cobble job. Spare motor, seems like you have it solved already with no need to put time into the old one.

Can you bore those races out and press in new bushings?