jcuk

Nice work on the stitching without a clam, I love hand stitching things no matter how tedious it can seem to be at times once I get into it, music playing in the back round or listening to the TMS ( Test Match Special ) its Cricket commentary. What is the spi you have used. Regards JCUK

My cutting board is used only for cutting I do not use it for anything else as I know it will mark or scratch my work, so it would maybe better to get another board and use that for other things other than cutting and punching. Once I have finished cutting that board is removed from my bench same with my punching surface. Hope this helps JCUK

Have a look here shipping cost may make you think though. https://www.abbeyengland.com/hardware/locks-case-fittings/cheney-locks/ Hope this helps JCUK

Hi are you able to remove the seat from the tree if so patch it from the under side of the seat much neater fix, looking at seat the i would put a larger patch than just for the tear because looking at the area around the tear, looks fragile as well that would help strengthen that area too(saves another repair in near future) glue it onto the seat the stitch onto the skirt trim excess with skirt shave/french edger, just make sure you have allowed enough so that you can stretch it back onto the tree hopefully you will not have to stitch anymore stretching back onto the tree should hold it in place as Ron has said not a quick or cheap option but quicker and cheaper than replacing the hole seat and a much better fix than a patch on top also a good learning curve for you. The leather i would use would be pigskin or kangaroo both strong and light weight. Hope this helps JCUK Hi nice work, its been a long time since i made one i believe the chain fitting is a 1/18'' or 1/14'' pretty sure 1/18'' Hope this helps JCUK

Try here chttps://sfleather.co.uk/search?q=kangaroo+lae Hope this helps JCUK

Nice work on your knife, its also called a single head knife which seems more apt to me when you look at a double head knife they are different to a round knife. Hope this helps JCUK

I seem remember you mentioned this in another thread, but to be honest i have never seen this and i have been using it for almost 30 years now also its what we used when did my training. But as daft as it sounds i suppose there maybe a varying quality of MDF from different suppliers.

I use MDF no drag and does not dull the edge once its to cut up on one side turn it over, just remember to only use it for cutting because it will scratch your work. Hope this helps JCUK

I know of them but never had any leather from them, but think they may have a minimum order clause, a saddler i know told me they are quite pricey because i was looking at their latigo not many places here carry it. I tend to stick with what and who i know i like Sedgwick and what i get from Metropolitan. A few years ago Sedgwick nearly went to the wall Abbey and others in consortium saved them i think one was a German company cant say who though, Abbey have done that a few times Equus was another i know of. Here is a link to J.&F.J. Baker. never used them but its supposed to be really nice and strong but again pricey but nice to see a tannery still doing that way, may treat my self in the new year. Having said it was pricey not sure if their price list is up to date but it looks like its cheaper than Sedgwick so looking good for the new year me thinks. https://www.jfjbaker.co.uk

Its helps not perfect but good enough. Just remember if they are so long to hit the floor hold them enough to help the threads re-coil

When doing longer runs of hand stitching it helps if you drop both threads every now and then, it will recoil its self and then and then a quick re-wax. Hope this helps Jcuk

The links below is the type of leather i have used to make them, i used Sedgwick stirrup butts, never used John Whites but have used their bridle butts a while ago, nice leather hope it is still is. I would not go below 4.8mm also i use Metropolitan leather their heavy Bridle butts are 5mm but you have to ask for that weight. When i buy ready made billets all i do is stain the edges and mark the holes don't feel there is a need to edge shave them. https://www.abbeyengland.com/leather/stirrup-butts/ https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Buy-Leather/buy-equestrian-leather/Coloured-Old-English-Bridle-Butt Will add not trying to drum up trade for them just being honest these are my mine go to for my leather and as Metropolitan are a near enough drive i can choose the leather myself. I see Abbey also carry some Hermann tooling leather half tempted to see what it like even though i don't do any tooling should not think they have the best grade though. AA. Crack have Wickett & Craig leather also tempted, when reading on here about those two i think i would prefer Wickett & Craig. Hope this helps JCUK

No i was only saying i get them from Abbey because i was cutting mine from stirrup butts and ending up bits left over that were getting thrown in the scrape bin for later repairs but they slowly built up ended with loads of unused off cuts because they in reality probably odd lengths and could not be used for any thing other than other than splitting them down for use for making loops which i had plenty of scrape for that anyway. There might be somewhere your side of the pond that may sell them. When i first started this game i use to use a old billet as a template to mark the holes use a bigger awl for the holes only because funds were short i only had enough to buy enough tools to make a bridle, but now have a strap pricker for that job saves time, they do differ from pricking irons, i use heavy gauge tiger thread for mine its the only time i use man made thread other than if i am recovering rubber reins on the machine where i use poly, if hand stitching i use linen. When i did my training we were taught to use 6/18 linen thread doubled but i think because the saddle webbing is man made its more abrasive than the linen thread thats why i use tiger thread now but if i had no tiger would still use 6/19 linen simply because never had any issues with it. Hope this helps JCUK

Yes it can happen but its more likely it won't, maybe a rubber biscuit would help with that also i think i wound have stitched the rope as Jonas had asked just because of the feeling that rope could work loose or hardware failure so its twice secured. Another good place to source some good and hard to find hardware are ships chandlers. Hope this helps JCUK

Can i ask a question does the clamp slide through the Head collar loop freely only ask because i would be worried it would get stuck if pulled through Regard JCUK