Mark842

I'd be more worried about why they stripped it down. Who would do that to a good working machine?

I don't understand the problem then. In my business plan when I can say this then the solution is always without. Why are you wasting time on someone or something that won't increase your business?

Yes, I have several pieces from late 1800's, early 1900's that I use for daily production that modern made equipment can't match.

I was actually just looking at their website and eBay Germany. Sigh...a wonderful country full of wonderful machinery and apparently no one in Germany wants to ship anything across the pond. I've tried and tried over the years with all types of sewing machines and other gizmos to no avail. One of these days I'm gonna semi retire and sail around the world. My boat will be running deep on its way back from Germany with all the weight...

That is very cool. If one wanting to search for such an item on the internet, what would I search for by brand name and model. I love old machinery like this and I like to collect.

Yes, I have heard he can get them and that the price is $450. That is why I'm waiting for someone else to be the test pilot. I have a collection of machine add-ons, tools and other gizmos that I have bought over the years that don't work as advertised. For $450, I start thinking gee whiz...that's what I paid for the last 206RB I purchased. In other words, I'm not spending $450 on it till I know it works.

That looks exactly like the one I bought a few years back. I've never been able to get anything but the thinnest skived leather to feed through it. I'm talking so thin you can almost see thru it. I'd like to find one truly made for using with leather.

$40 is not expensive for a quality stamp in my book. Linnell stamps are a completely different class of quality than anything Tandy has put out since the 60's. If $40 bothers you don't bother looking at any of Bob Beards stamps... However, for some very nice quality stamps for Dragon scale look up Sergey Neskromniy on Facebook

Thanks Karl! I'm sure I'll think of more. I have been looking at fume extractor systems like Bofa. Found a bunch in the $700 to $1100 range. Just purchased some new machines last week so now I have to save up again. Hopefully I can have one by spring time.

Hi Bob, I'm assuming you don't have access to the bike. What I do when I don't have access to a bike and I need a template I have the customer make me one out of paper and mail it to me. If you do have access, grab a piece of paper large enough and get to making it. Its easy!

I'll jump on the question train as I'm in the market for one. Have you used it to cut 6 oz-ish veg tan yet? Can it do this without leaving the leather looking burnt? Then there is the issue with me...when it comes to tech I'm kind of a mouth breather. I'm self taught on most things computer out of necessity. How hard is this to learn how to use? Last but not least. Epilogs website, under the FAQ's for the mini's shows the price starting at $7995. I'm figuring that must be for the 18 with the lowest wattage as the ones I see for sale used in the 40-50 watt range are listed for $10-14K. How expensive is the software on top of the expense of the machine? I'm wanting the mini 24, just unsure what wattage I need. I want to buy new as I want a warranty and customer support but I have a $14k budget.

I unbolted the head from the stand, backed my pickup up to the stand and was able to slide the head right onto the tailgate of the truck by myself. Then I grabbed the bottom of the stand while leaning the top against the tailgate and lifted and tilted it right in. Took it out the same way in reverse. I estimate the head at about 200-250lbs and the stand a little more. I think to lift and carry it in two pieces two adults that are reasonably in good shape could carry each piece.

I would contact Sergey Neskromniy. You can find him on Facebook and I believe he has a store on Etsy also, not sure about Etsy as I've always dealt with him through Facebook. His work is outstanding and affordable. If he doesn't already make what your looking for he can make it.

I'd be interested to hear if there are any reviews on this. I've tried rigging binder attachments on my Cobra but its a pain and I can never get them to work quite right. I pretty much gave up trying to do it by machine. Which in the bottom line means there are products I'm not producing because I can't accomplish this in a timely fashion.

Thank you for the help...I'll try not to bug you too much. This will probably wind up being my winter project as I'm swamped with orders this time of year and it usually does not let up till mid October. I probably will only get to mess with it an hour here and there till then but i'm thinking I want to do at least a mild restoration.

Awesome! thinks for the info and the help. I've actually found an owners manual online in PDF that warned me to oil everything except the part you mentioned. Like everything else the shuttles and bobbins are dirty. When I picked it up the one shuttle was sitting on the tray out of the machine and I grabbed it, said Yes, it's here and put it in my pocket. After unloading it at home and looking it over, I slid open the (bobbin case area?) and there was another shuttle and bobbin in there that actually looks pretty clean compared to the other. Not sure what a good pricker foot should feel like but the foot on there definitely has some pricks on the bottom of it. the machine is still threaded from the last time it was used 50+ years ago but geez...that thread looks like rope!. Guess I'm going to have to source some smaller sized needles and I'm assuming from your tack pic's you can run modern machine thread through it , probably 277 to 346? I usually buy bonded nylon from Superior thread for my other machines. Your getting me pretty excited looking at how nice the stitching looks on your harnesses. I was buying this with the possibility of it just being a corner show piece but I think I have a complete sewing machine minus bobbin winder but I'm sure I can devise a method to wind them.

Because sewing machines are cooler that spoons! Any chance you have an owner manual for this beast on PDF? Got it home now. It has two bobbin cases and bobbins that came with it and there is one needle in it. I can turn it and everything moves but it is super stiff. According to the woman I purchased it from, it was her Dads and has been sitting for 50+ years. I'd like to get some documentation on it so i don't screw anything up and then start going through it and give it a restoration. Get it cleaned up and lubed up and I think it will be a working machine.

Thanks for the tip. I'm going in blind on this one. Decided to drive out for the pick up so heading down to Las Vegas this morning for a 16 hour turn around. The seller inherited it from their Dad who passed years ago and knows nothing about it. They also had a pearson # 6 that they sold. I missed that one, didn't see the listing for it on eBay or I would have went for both. I got the Landis for $500 and someone else got the Pearson for $500. While I think I got a good deal and think the guy that won the Pearson got a better deal! I collect cool old machines like this. It will be a bonus if it works. I don't even know if it has any needles or bobbin(s) yet...

According to this formula my die that has 235 linear inches would need about 25 ton for it to work. I'm betting since it is in use daily with about 60-100 cuts a day going on 3 years without ever being sharpened it is probably not very sharp. It works just as good on my 15 ton as it does on my 25 ton. That is assuming I figured it right. leather is 5-6 oz. Just curious because I have collected formulas for this. This would be the 6th different one I've seen and they all give different answers.

Thank you. That was about what I was figuring. I'm planning on splitting it and will have 3 people available to load.

What brand laser engraver are you using? I'm in the market for one but all the big manufacturers seem like they are on the East Coast. I'd like to know it can do what I need before I drop $10-15K on one and I'm hoping I won't have to spend $2k to go cross country just to get a demonstration.

Hi Folks, I purchased a Landis 1 with stand that is out of state. I'm having a friend that lives local pick it for me. He has access to man power or machinery. any idea what the weight is on this beast? Can two man handle it onto a trailer or am I telling him to throw the forklift on the trailer?

Yes, I did years ago and muttered and invented new cuss words every time I used the thing. If I wouldn't have wasted $800 on the Boss I could have bought my Cobra that much sooner. I recommend getting a Cobra or Cowboy or other 441 clone. Just keep in mind that the Cobra and Cowboy machines are set up for leather, other clones may not be so you may have to but different presser feet and a feed dog.

CJR Tec is a local company for me that i have dealt with. They are a decent company but bottom line is they want to make money and they want to make sure the press you get is big enough that it will work. The problem is that there are so many variables to tonnage requirements that no one really ever gives or gets a straight answer. The dimensions of your dies you will be using are less relevant than the linear inches. If your 23 x 17 die is just a rectangle then you have 80 linear inches of die. As long as your using a swing press with a table physically big enough to fit the die you would have no problem with a 15 ton press. You just swing start on one side of the die, hit it, swing the head over to the other side and hit it again and your done, faster then it took me to type this. I have dies with nearly 300 linear inches for cutting fringe and my 15 ton cuts just as good as my 25 ton. I have to swing and hit the die 3 times with both only because of the length of the die.

Start with a sharp edger. If your edger is sharp it will cut down on sanding a smooth edge. I then put some wyo Quik slik on the edge and run on a cobra burnisher. That gives a decent good looking edge. For an awesome edge, sand repeat, sand repeat....