ReneeCanady

I have no idea about the MP being a final "finish" coat for a leather item because I have never used it on leather, but I do know about sewing fabric. Now this is just me, but to finish bag leather (and I assume this is garment leather or upholstery leather) I wouldn't bother trying to burnish the edges. It sounds to me like it wouldn't work, ever. I think the term for leather working would be to roll the edges. Sewing fabric would be called finishing the edge. To do that with fabric you fold it about a 1/4in over, and top stitch it. To get a nicer edge you would fold it twice. Now with leather I am sure that is much harder to do, but you could definitely get one fold (I have done it for pouches) and topstitch. You may even get the 2 folds if you skive the leather. *shrug* just a thought. I would be afraid to use MP on the surface of leather because it is a glue. In my mind it would have to eventually do what all glue does, crack and/or even turn yellow. You will never know until you use it and wait a few months I suppose

Thanks guys! LOL You guys are cracking me up! Oh, by the way, this photo is me ROFL!

I would edit the caption but I can't figure it out, oh well lol. " Holster" will get more attention than "harness" anyway

Oops ROFL. Underbust harness! Not holster. Sorry brunette moment

I put my email on there because that's the only way the Navy guys can contact me. On my business cards I have my email, etsy, and facebook addresses. LOL I didn't even put my phone number on the cards because I don't need my phone ringing all the time, but am surely losing business over that

I will someday order another. I like the 4cm size, but next one I want the email address to be the same. It's really touchy at 2cm. Sometimes you can read it and sometimes you can't lol.

Thanks! Ummmm I don't know I'll check lol. Well, my paper work says 4cm but that can't be right because the top and middle line are the same, but the bottom line is smaller. I'll have to measure for you next run to the leather room.

Thank you for this thread. I have looked all over the place to find this answer. I also have older tool and was wondering HOW OLD they were. This should help.

http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/14813 Here is the link. I made a pair for myself a while back. Since you already know how to make moccasins then you might be able to make a nice sole for this style. They are REALLY custom fit lol. I have no idea why it won't let me change the font of this post, sorry.

There is a nice tutorial I ran across online. Going to see if I can find it again.

Very nice as always Double U! Did you use resolene as a resist on this project?

Nice!

I have the slightest idea on this topic, but it looks neat and well done to me! Good job.

FINALLY getting somewhere. My hubby was able to drill a hole in the back of my makers stamp for the standard bit to sit in. He also had to take the standard bit and file it flat (it was pointed). He made the hole in the stamp just a touch smaller than the bit shaft. Here is the final result. It still won't make a good impression on wood but the inside of my leather is coming out clearly. I should have had the alteredleather@yahoo.com just a bit larger in font.

ROFL....Yeah, we could call them the sandals that will NOT walk on water. The sinking shoe

Example....The men's set on the left was made from 9-10 oz leather and the women's set is made from 6-7 oz leather. You can SEE how more light weight the women's set is. It all depends on what you are trying to do.

It also depends on what you are using the armor for. Is it for show at say a ren faire or do you want it to fit the guide lines for SCA/LARP? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/9099-02.aspx that is a decent armor weight. I made mine more for show and used vegetable tanned leather somewhere in the 8-10 oz range.

Thanks lightningad! It was different that's for sure. It was a nice change up from my norm

I have changed up a bit on how I do things now since the time I answered these questions. It's pretty cool to find your stuff on someone's blog http://simpleshoemaking.wordpress.com/

My two cents.....I have only been leather working about a year and Tandy pretty much talked me into the Eco Flo. I have used it since. However, I have noticed things like cell phone cases and certain belts I have made are now fading really fast. I don't care what anyone says about antique gel LOL I actually use the med brown gel as my dye and it holds up nicely and is the BEST shade of brown to my liking. I have been curious to try the fiebings for a while now so I tried it the other day. I was very impressed at how it actually soaked INTO the leather which is not something I was used to seeing. I think that once I figure out the process of making the mixute of dye vs alcohol to make it to color I want, I will be in love with the fiebings as well as the gel.

Looks good! Wonder how many times that will scare you walking into your LW area in the dark lol.

I don't remember the guys name but he is on this forum and you might be able to find him under a "leather tankard" search. I know he is really good with the mixture of beeswax and pitch. I have never used pitch as I said, I use epoxy resin now, but I know if you get the mixture of pitch and wax right it makes a nice lining. I would check the flash point of beeswax before I played with combining the two and raising temps for the pitch. Just a thought.

http://kimmulhall.vpweb.co.uk/Leather-Cup-Project.html This is the video I watched to make my very first mug about a year ago. Thought I'd link it to you just to see in part 3 how he paints on the wax and bakes it so it gets absorbed. I know most that do the beeswax and brewers pitch use a 50/50 mixure. I personally have never used the pitch, but have seen some really nice mugs that have been made with it.

Good call! I think you might be on to something there