chiefjason

Fantastic. Making a mental note and hoping I can find it when I need it. lol Thanks.

Looks great. I noticed the belt is not lined. Are you gluing the loops to the back of the belt individually? I know with lining it will all glue down when you line it. Or does the ammo loop just hold itself that well? Never done one, but get requests for butt stock cuffs and I'm sure I'll eventually end up doing one. The only loops I have done were 2 slot and glued down to the holster with a leather panel.

This is Oxblood thinned WAY down. There is barely any dye in it probably. It took a couple days of tinkering with it to get here. I ended up with a jar of this pink and a magenta that has a more purple tone to it.

Nice job. The odd ones are always kind of fun.

Dremels have ruined more projects and guns than most people imagine. Great tool for somethings. Bad idea for others. A neutral shoe polish might help. But being IWB it's not a big deal anyway.

I've been putting off building a better table because I'm pretty mediocre at wood work. Currently using an old wooden door on adjustable saw bucks. But those legs may just jump start my building plans. I really need a larger table and need it high enough to stand and work.

I did not line my holster. I also did not dye or burnish the inside of the straps. But the natural goes well with the brown. Not so much with a black. If you do dye it just apply a couple coats of finish on the flesh side. Also, 6-7 will work for the straps but it's going to be a bit heavy. You could go lighter. It's what mine is made with and it's probably over kill.

If anyone has any info I'd love to hear it. Considered buying it but not sure what kind of market is out there for something like this. If not, thought I'd share a cool find. It's made by B.A.T. & S. Seems to be unissued, nearly new condition. It's missing a few internal parts and the inventory list would be on the inside of the lid. Some green on the brass hardware. Spent a long time checking it out. Really well built old case. This configuration is apparently the cavalry configuration. The large flap is for attaching it to a saddle. One on eBay with all the goodies inside. https://www.ebay.com/itm/WWI-US-Military-Trench-Binocular-Periscope-1915-A1-B-L-BC-Telescope-Leather-Case-/362186567104

Looks good. My LGS is after me to make a few slings for him. Nothing that fancy though.

No, no it's not. A pancake is going to be 2 layers for the entire holster, not just the holster pocket. It adds considerable stiffness to the holster, which this one will lack. It's someone trying to "improve" on a pancake and answering a question no one really asks. This is a pancake, flat back pancake to be exact. The difference is in how much leather is used, and how it's used. The holster above puts the grain side to the gun, which could be done by making a lined holster but it takes more time and effort. And the above is also pointless because the outside leather is flesh in anyway, so what's the point? Meaning it's only "lined" on one side, not both. It just looks like it's lined.

http://twofoolsleathergoods.com/fatboy-belts/black-fatboy-belt

I have a buddy that's made a name for himself making belts using Sam Brown studs. I have 2 of them. Fantastic belts and buckle less too. It's leather where the buckle would be.

Listen to Dwight on that one. The thickness of a gun belt plays havoc with measurements. The thickness shortens the useful measurement of the belt. It might be the same lengthy but they seem to shrink when you put them on. BTW, Dwight do you just add 4" to the measurement period? I usually added 2" for OWB and 4" for IWB, but still had some issues. And don't get me started on guys "swearing I'm a 36" waist". Grrrrr!!

Since nobody has mentioned it, those are also pull the dot snaps. I use the 6/32 screw and t nut to attach most of mine. But recently ordered some 8/32 that work for the same purpose to streamline the parts I have to keep on hand. Also, be warned the posts for the cap and post come in different lengths. For use with leather you will need a cap with a longer post than some folks carry. And some places don't even list the post length so pay attention. You can order them straight from Skovill but it's a $50 minimum order. Ifitthermoplastics.com also carries them in smaller quantities and they have the 8/32 screws that work with them. As a bonus the screws are black if you are using black snaps.

They'll survive a little water. Even the cheap ones. I let my leather case for 17-18 minutes. Then mold the holster. Wipe the gun off and let it air dry. Never had a problem.

This one looks pretty close. Be advised that the cut on the clip is a piece that wraps around the bottom of the belt on the inside. Incredibly secure. Nearly too secure. It's a lot of effort to get them off. If that's not what you want look for one that is solid like Dave's. The ones that are solid are sometimes referred too as cell phone clips I think. http://www.bluegunstore.com/MetalHolsterClip-CLIP3-009.aspx I'm a fan of the Tek-lok clips too. I have one on my cell phone holster and a Taurus 605 holster I wear hiking and fishing.

Just made this one for a 45LC/.410. Belt holster though, based on the Avenger patterns.

I like the little details. And I REALLY like the cut of that sweat shield to cover the rear sight. Nice touch! Occasionally I have one that seems a bit too much. This has me contemplating tweaking them. Mine are pretty generic normally. Love the contrasting colors with leather and thread. I do that a lot too.

I ONLY do flat back holsters. With this one exception. My double mag holders are old school 50/50 molds. I cut, glue, stitch, then shove the mags in. I'm not saying you can't make a jig for this, I'm sure you could. I just found that it was quicker to drop back to the 50/50 for this one thing. I think the trick to jig molding the front is that you will have to use pretty thin leather to press down in the middle. Or, you could use the middle between the mags for some style of retention screw so you don't have to mold it all the way down.

Shame you had to ugly up that holster with that pistol. I'll admit it, I've considered getting a used on to see if I can sell any. But I did now for my dad's HP .45, dang what a big freaking pistol. I've got drills smaller than that pistol. lol And yeah, if someone had money they want to get rid of no shame in helping them spend it.

I moved to pull the dot snaps after the line 24's were popping open at all the wrong times. PTD snaps have their own issues though. They need to break in a bit before they get smooth. And they relationship between male and female part can cause them not to work occasionally. If you don't get the post set low enough, or use a small enough screw it will interfere with them setting. After reading Lobo's post, I might have to look into this snap issue. But so far, I like the PTD snaps when the snap is required to hold something securely, like IWB loops, horizontal snap mag carriers, or straps for a woods gun. But I use line 24's on thumb breaks, some accessories, and less important snaps.

I use a oil/bees wax mix that I apply with some heat. 3 light rubs of this mix and heated to absorb on each side. Seems to work really well. Belts and straps I outright oil, and might do the oil/wax too. I like how it darkens and deepens the color too. The only time I don't oil is if someone wants a really light tan. The oil just ruins that.

A lot of things sound good in theory. But in practice not so much. If he wears it OWB a lot the holsters will bend to his waist. That is going to be less comfortable on a shoulder holster, causing the wings to dig into the side. IMO, I would try to talk him into 2 separate holsters. I rarely ever do multi purpose holsters. Because they don't do both things well, they only do both marginally. Holsters need to be specific to the task at hand, and only one task IMO.

If you hand dyed that it may not be cracking, it might be lifting. When the bending exposes undyed parts of the leather and appears lighter. Drum dyed leather does not do that because it tends to be struck through. If you apply a light layer of dye with a dauber you can get a significant color change when it is bent. Not so much a defect as it is a characteristic of leather. The best way to avoid this if you are hand dyeing is to buy drum dyed leather for the loops. FWIW, I hand dye most of my leather. It all does this. My drum dyed leather does not. Just the nature of working with leather. You might be able to mitigate the issue by dip dying the leather instead of dying with a dauber.

Nice. I've got a guy wanting one here soon. Just trying to work out the details. Was trying to work out the ammo loops and think I'll go with that style. I've done similar with large revolvers and it works very well since you can glue them on the backside to keep them in place.