Constabulary

Just found this offer coincidentally on AliExpress and there seem to be some interesting needle / throat plates that I have never seen before: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000301291692.html

545 is the class the rest of the digits is a description of a sub class

you own them both so you decide which one suits your needs best. But if it was me I´d keep the LS-2 . Why? Cause it is a triple feed machine with reverse.

Not a super common machine here I´d say. Maybe there were used different motors at time so I would check with the manufacturer for that. or check this YT video

Basically ALL sewing machines can sew leather it just depends on the leather. As you assumed, it could have been an edge binding machine for heavy materials. Large hand wheels were also used for slowing down the sewing speed. You have to raise the needle bar if you want to use a longer needle regarding tension - most likely your bobbin thread tension is way to high (see manual for that) or you have a way too soft upper tension spring (you may need a heavier beehive spring then) or you have a permanent upper tension release for what ever reason. F.I. knee rests against knee lift lever or if you have a foot lift pedal your foot rests on the pedal.... To figure out what the numbers on the plate mean see this thread - it may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/89283-an-introduction-to-the-pfaff-numbering-system/ Other than than check the 545 parts list there should be explanations of numbers as well. But keep in mind the plate only tells you how the machine was set up when it left the factory but not what change were done by owners or dealers afterwards (like setting is up for shorter needle).

Have googled for it or checked the manufactures website? It took me seconds to find it.

Chrages looks like ripped out of the context (kind of) cause we don't know from where you quoted this but I´d assume charge in terms of paint could means the amount of certain ingredients (filling quantity). I honestly think that creating an own paint from the scratch w/o having a background in chemistry or paint in general does not make much sense. it´s more than just mixing some ingredients I´d rather try to mix my own shade from existing colors from a well known manufacturer.

Basically depends on the hat style / design and if it requires some stiffens of the material. You may add some sort of stiffer on lets say a slouch hat or boonie hat. Know what I mean?

BTW - I cut some threads for attaching some edge guides and I also have an oil hole in it.

Different machine but basically the same thing. Some years ago I made a flat bed attachment for my Singer 45D91 from a IKEA bamboo cutting board. Super low cost (less than 20€ / $22) very sturdy and it has IMO it has a nice look. To be fair the cutting board idea back then came from LW member UWE. He made them way more professional than I but I was able to make it with the tools I have. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/72789-singer-45d91-restoration/?tab=comments#comment-552472 https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/aptitlig-cutting-board-bamboo-80233430/ This is what UWE did https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65589-flatbed-table-attachment-for-pfaff-335/ I also made one from screen printing plate for my Singer 108w20 but to be honest I have never used it. That one was cheap also...

maybe loose set screw on the wheel?

does not help much - better upload the Video to Youtube and post a link here.

A buddy once told me there were different JD green shades.

IIRC the 217 came with 2 different cam readers. I think the later model is the 217N and it is using larger cams. Which one do you have please post some pictures.

no reverse lever so it is the 225 then. Needle size depends on the thread thickness you want to use.

Swing aside the top cover. You will see a dial with the stitch length numbers on it. Loosen the set screw of the dial push down the plunger in the flat bed and dial in the longest stitch length (5SPI it should be) then rotate the dial until you can see the 5 in the window then tighten the set screw again - and done. You maybe have to play with the position of the dial a little bit.

Yes, very similar to Singer 31K. This machine has a CB hook and wheel feed instead of a feed dog and a swing aside roller foot.The needle plate is missing, I hope you have it. If not then it will not sew. Finding a spare will be challenging I guess since the wheel feed Pfaff 34 were not very common. Here is a parts list for the 34, scroll down to the page 33/34 for the specific 34-5 parts. Pfaff_34.pdf

different thread size means different number of revolutions. Hmmm. I think I will stick with my DIY one that automatically stops when the bobbin is full no matter what thread size.

buy some leather scraps for testing. I never bought a hide. I just buy scraps. Often good enough for what I do.

sorry - it was a 250 / 27 needle I just checked.

Good question. I think it depends on how soft the material is. I have sewn some leather handles with linen thread a while ago. This is how it looks. Thread size unknown (old wooden spool) but I used a 280 / 28 needle. The holes are pretty well filled with the thread. Material is 10-11mm thick.

Foot pressure if often overlooked and folks keep it high when the last project required high foot pressure. Guess how I know (different machine though). I sew thick leather only now and then and I always do some tests before I start the project. Speaking of thread tension - a leather worker I know even has different hooks for different size thread and has marked the hooks with the specific thread size but he is using linen thread from one manufacturer only - no poly and no nylon. To me the needle holes still look fairly large - or not?

You are welcome. Its interesting fro me too to figure where to get bits for upcoming projects. Always good to have cross references especially for these very old machines. Fortunately Singer continued using certain parts so the chances are good to find even some of the "odd parts". Keep us posted with the restoration progress of your machine.

Playing with top and bottom thread tension and adjusting foot pressure is part of the sewing game when sewing different thicknesses or using different thread / needle sizes. You have to practice this. You just need as much foot pressure that the materials is not lifted by the rising needle. To me the needle holes look fairly large but I have not used D point needles. My preferred needle is the S point needle for having a straight seam look.

so is it a DIY or have you bought it as is on Ebay. How about a link or some explanations of what you did?