Constabulary

Claes patchers are for sure the best you can find. However - its the same as with all other sewing machines. It depends on what you want or need. If you can live with an average stich length of 4-5mm and you don't sew thicker than let say 6mm to max. 8mm then I would buy one of the later Singer 29K models like 29K71, 29K72 or 29k73 (or a well setup China clone) - reason is the availability of after market parts for these machine. Meaning on the long view you can always find reasonable priced spare parts and they are available almost everywhere. Meaning using a later model 29K machine for a long time can be very economical. That is the main reason why I´m using a 29K71 though I could easily find CLAES patchers too but they all have a long arm. Other reason for my 29K71 is the nice short arm - is very space saving and machine weight a lot less - (easy to move / transport). Down side is the small bobbin but I can live with it as I´m barely using my 29K71 but its a nice to have machine. If you want to use the machine in a business I would not buy a Singer other than the below mentioned because spare parts of the earlier models are hard to find. Some earlier 29K machines share parts with the below mentioned but most wear parts (especially gear box parts) are absolutely obsolete and have not been produced for many decades. Well - the 29K60 and 29K62 are candidates I would consider too as they just differ a tiny bit from the below mentioned: 29K71 - short arm, small bobbin 29K72 - long arm, large bobbin (approx double the capacity) - uses same hook as Adler 30-7 / 30-70 29K73 - long arm, small bobbin That does not mean earlier 29K´s are bad - its just the situation of spare parts that make them "less attractive" - in my opinion. Adler 30-1 / 30-10, 30/15, 30-7 / 30-7 have approx the same capabilities as the Singer 29K model (same presser feet, stitch length, foot lift and hook sizes) with exception of the 30-7 / 30-70 - it is using a longer needle and can sew approx 2mm sticker (up to approx 10mm). But Adler machines are technically stuck at the mid of the 1930´s - they are pretty much still the same. Just just minor things have changed but no real big improvements - well they changed the casting but the basic sewing technology is still the same. Singer actually made a few steps forward technically and that lead to that they (and not Adler) are nowadays heavily copied by many Chinese manufacturers. THATS the reason why spare parts for the above mentioned Singer 29K are available at fair prices. 30-1 / 30-10 - long arm, small bobbin 30/15 - short arm, small bobbin 30-7 / 30-7 - long arm, large bobbin, higher foot lift, can sew ~2mm thicker than any Singer or any other Adler 30. 30-3 and 30-5 are not very wide spread so I do not list them. Problem: Adler spare parts are EXTREMLY expensive and no generic or aftermarket parts are available (as far as I know). A new Adler machine is not better than a new Singer 29K machines. And from my experience Adler is not better build and is not lasting longer than a Singer 29K. A worn Adler can have the same problems as a worn Singer 29K - they even share some parts (same presser feet, hooks and bobbins...). The big advantage of the Singer 29K is the spare parts situation! However - one should not underestimate the capabilities of the 30-7 and 30-70 but again - it depends on if you really need their features or not. I don´t need these feature! CLAES Patcher are class of its own. Being honest the nicest patcher I have ever sewn with was a 200-3. That was so unbelievable smooth running and made stitches of approx 6.5 - 7mm. Was a tough decision not to keep it but I just don´t need a patcher of this size so I kept my little 29K71. I have worked on more Adler 30 and Singer 29K than on CLAES patchers so my technical knowledge on CLAES is limited. The longest stitch length of any Claes patcher I have seen (no matter the age or condition) was 6mm up to 7mm at max.. Seems they were ahead of its time and their feeding system is causing less wear on the parts. Let me try to sort the models and sub classes.... The Mod. RPX and Mod. 200 Claes patchers are approx the same - I actually do not know the difference between the two. Either one came in 3 (RPX) or 4 (Mod. 200) basic sub classes and all have a long arm #1 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm #2 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm #3 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm #3A - large bobbin, longer Sys. 328 / 214 needle system - can sew up to 15mm PRX was not available in a #A3 subclass if I recall correctly. #A3 came with the Mod. 200 first. However - the #A3 subclass is extremely hard to find. Successor was the CLAES 8245. It also came in 4 basic subclasses but you had many more option regarding the stand and motorization. The basic sub classes are: 8345/10 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm 8345/20 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm 8345/30 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm 8345/40 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 328 / 214 needle system - can sew up to 15mm The latest / up to date CLAES patcher model is the 8346 - it only comes in 3 subclasses. It is the most expensive patcher ever I think (when bough new) but for sure the most technically advanced model. 8346/10 - small bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system - can sew up to 10mm 8346/20 - medium bobbin, Sys. 81 needle system can sew up to 10mm 8346/30 - large bobbin, longer Sys. 88 needle system - can sew up to 12mm If I had to choose between a new Adler 30-70 or a new Claes 8346-30 I would immediately choose the Claes 8346-30! But CLAES parts are also quite expensive (hooks are very expensive) - still would rather choose a new Claes than a new Adler. I once visited the CLAES factory. I was in the area when I picked up a used band saw so I took the chance and asked for some spare parts which they sold with a smile. And that was so cool - they have a ZIGZAG variant of their 8346 and they even demonstrated it to me though I bough just a few bits for a few bucks. That is such a cool machine!!! Great service there!!! But thats a different story. BTW - some os the spare parts still remained the same meaning some parts of the 200 model are still available but not all. Pfaff or Metro Special 8346 are all made by CLAES - Pfaff just puts their label on it. Belief it or not I once even have seen a CLAES patcher with Singer decals. All above to my best knowledge and my own opinion. Maybe SHOEPATCHER can make a few more commends on CLAES patchers - the above is all I know.

wiz - do you mean the spring on the needle bar on the 29K? Or I got it wrong I think its purpose of the needle bar spring to avoid thread rebound. I had this on a Adler 30-1 the thread always jumped out of the path (at the stud near the top tension discs) until I figured the needle bar spring was worn (grove in the center of the pedaled end). The thread regulator spring is holding the thread taut approx. until the needle penetrates the material (f.i. for preventing needle piercing the thread). The thread loop is formed when the needle rises from BDC and the friction between material, needle and thread is forming the loop. I guess the problem is your thread and / or the needle. The machine is meant for sewing with a heavily waxed thread and I would guess the thread is probably to "slippy" for this machine. Waxed thread is causing more friction especially while forming the loop. If you know what I mean. But thats just a guess... I know usually 346 thread requires a 26 needle but I would try a needle one or even 2 sizes smaller (depends on your thread). I also have some certain thread I got from a former tent maker and I wanted to use it with my DVSG / BUSMC #6 but it did not work at all. Changed the thread and voila - perfect loop forming and it works like a dream. Sometimes it is just odd and you don´t know / can´t figure why.

Ha - now you are bitten by the Cast Iron Bug It´s a sole stitcher, right? Top tension looks like there is a pulley between the 2 discs which is okay in this case but I would guess you have to wrap the thread around the pulley - if you know what I mean. Seems it has no thread regulator spring - maybe you also have to wrap the thread around the post where the thread regulator unit supposed to be. Just a guess

I would guess it is a BROTHER S-1000 / S-7200 clone or similar - check pictures at the College Sewing Website (see link below). I guess most of the brother machine of this type will use the same hook. if you find the screw - order 2 or 3 of them along with needle screws, tension spring and screws a thread regulator spring, maybe tension unit nut spring and discs, needle plate screws, feed dog screws and other useful screws and small parts - you will be literally "screwed" if you loose them in the middle of a project (this happens) and you have no replacements. Better have 2 of each as spare! When I setup a new old cast iron clunker for my self, the 2nd thing (after restoring and adjusting) is looking for small screws and bits. I get most f my stuff from College Sewing in the UK. Their Brother section: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/brother-industrial-sewing-machine-spare-parts/

I belief sometimes SV machines just differ from stock / off the shelf machines by the accessories the machines came with. But there are no records available what in particular every single SV machine was set up for or what accessories they came with. Agree with Jimi if your machine is like the one UWE has liked it is a flat bed machine with reverse. In case yours comes with accessories I´d like to see what it is in particular. Not many 45K´s with reverse are around most I have seen just had plain forward stitch.

You are welcome - glad it was just a small issue. Too bad but the #20 its gone.

So that was it? Is it "walking again"? Don´t know if this is a common problem but I recall that I had a similar issue when I worked on a friends Claes patcher. Thats for sure not something you should expect from a refurbished machine. But as on all other sewing machines - things like this just happen sometimes. I would watch it and if this happens on and on I´d check with the dealer.

Please post some pictures of your machine - first thing I woulds guess is that the stitch length is adjusted too short but that would be too obvious I think. Or (just from pictures I have in mind) the Transportkeil (sorry no english word for it in my dictionary for it) "popped" out of place. The Transportkeil is handing on a rim on the needle bar bushing in which the needle bar is going up and down in. But thats a rough guess at the moment.

$100 just for the wiring? WOW Can you post a picture of the wiring he did in the motor junction box? Hope he did not forget to install the capacitor.

YES! We have the same plugs in Germany.

Hope this helps:

I´d most likely would buy the Consew and add a servo motor as is is in better condition and for sure the newer machine with "less milleage"

Must be an amazing and very secret process. I´m sure they are using some miracle "outer space" sewing machine oil too. WHAT A JOKE - this very thin needle (#90 metric) OF COURSE will "punch through" the shown leather and almost any type of fabric - most likely even double the thickens. But this has nothing to do with how well this machine is set up by the seller or what ever. That's plain ans simple physics - A very thin needles combined with a very thin thread will punch through this OF COURSE like nothing. Guess why your Doc is using a very thin needle with his syringe and not a 1.4mm one. But try this machine with a 140 (22) needle with 30 (138) thread which is approx the lower end of thread and needle combination being used for sewing this type of leather "under real life conditions" f.i. when sewing a proper leather belt - it will not work. or try to sell a belt which is sewn with a #90 needle and #50 thread (metric) - not that it only looks stupid and the seam has a very low breaking strength - almost any customer would point you a finger when he is looking at that belt - I bet. This machine will not ne able to handle a 140 needle with 138 thread. Talking some bla bla while shooting a video with a short piece of thick leather and producing serious leather goods is a whole different thing. Years ago I have killed 2 domestic machines until I figured / understood what it really means when people are taking about domestic and industrial sewing machines. And by far not all industrial sewing machines are meant to sew leather with - weight of a machine has nothing to do with its ability to sew leather / producing leather goods. So right!

table mounted winders for industrial sewing machine usually don´t have springs on the axle - at least I haven´t seen this before. There are some type of machine mounted bobbin winders that may have a small spring if I recall correctly.

usually the axle is split and you can simply bend the 2 prongs with a screw driver to fit the bobbins - the shown modification is not necessary.

You cannot put everything in a museum - I love vintage machines too (oooh yes I do!) and I had a few very pristine machines I wanted to keep (just because of their condition - for no other reason) but in the end if I don´t use it is just collecting dust and takes space. I also have a nice 132K6 (yet head only) and I for sure will use it when its setup is done. But I most likely will never wear it out. Machines that you don´t use sooner or later end up in a barn or shed or attic where they sooner or later will be forgotten. Then one day a scrap collector shows up and takes it for nothing (I´m sure a lot of machines ended like this) - so better use it or sell it to someone who can use it. But really think twice if you really have no use for this beauty!

Pfaff and Adler also made left standing machines of this type. I also wondered why left standing at all have been produced - but seems there has been a demand for them.

Do you just need just a knob for the hand wheel or a complete conversion to a front crank as Yetibele it has shown? The complete conversion kit (if it will fit at all) for sure will cost a lot of money - not sure if it is really worth converting a 100 years old machine that way. However - you only can convert to front crank if a gear is mounted on the top shaft in front of the drive cam. Open the rear cover and check. If there is no gear you have to pull the top shaft and install a gear. Pulling the top shaft means disassembling almost the complete machine. And thats really not worth it - in my opinion.

BTW - just checked my records and found an Adler 48 (same machine class) brochure - it says the bobbin can hold 22m of size 40 (metric) thread.

hooks and bobbins are available (same as Class 17) some other bits may work from other machines (Class 16, Class17...) but you have to look for them. You sometimes even find these machines with a wheel feed mechanism. These are rather light duty sewing machines, designed for sewing shoe upper, decorative stitches, sewing wallets and hats. They are by far not as heavy as the 45K. The bobbins are rather small and they usually can handle up to #30 / #25 thread - maybe #20 (Metric) but you will not get much #20 thread on the bobbin. Machine has nor reverse. Comparable machines from other brands are Pfaff 23, 25, 28, Adler 48 (all right standing but the same class). Hope this helps a little bit.

if it is Russian I cannot make further commends regarding parts - sorry! Never touched a Russian sewing machine.

looks like a Singer 18 - left version of the Singer 17.

This is not a walking foot machine. This is a "plain" drop feed machine with with Roller foot and they often have a quite aggressive feed dog so it is possible that the feed dog will leave marks on the underside of the leather. Just keep that in mind.

a Metric size 180 needle punches a quite large hole for 138 thread - I usually run a 140 (metric) needle with 138 thread. Canvas and vinyl are "healing" the needle hole where as veg tan leather is not so the too large hole is probably the reason for not forming a proper thread loop. Hope you know what I mean. Try a 140 or 150 metric needle with you thread and I´m almost sure it will work.

without problem - foot lift should be approx 12-14mm so it should be able to handle 10-12mm thick materials. This type of machine works best with thread from size 20 (metric) onward. Don´t buy it untested - check with the seller and test sew it with the thread and leather you want to sew with. This type of machine usually is very reliable and long lasting. Equivalents are the Singer 45K, Adler 4, Adler 104, Claes 212 - just to give you some comparable models. You probably want to add a speed reducer pulley system for reducing the sewing speed.