Constabulary

I just stumbled over this one on Ebay - is this what you are looking for? http://www.ebay.com/itm/STANDARD-PRESSER-FOOT-SET-U192-U193-fits-JUKI-DU-1181-/290961604849

29x3 (332) and 135x17 (DPx17) have exactly the same length when you are considering Schmetz needles. Both are 38.9mm from top of shank to top of needle eye. 135x17 (DPx17): http://de.strima.com/135x17-ses-65-schmetz-sewing-machine-nadel-g02-1box-100-nadeln/item/682987/ 29x3 (332): http://de.strima.com/332-%28r%29-160-schmetz-sewing-machine-nadel-g02-1box-100-nadeln/item/682784/

The needle should be centered in the needle hole. Maybe the needle is just bent. You can either use 29x3 (332) or 135x17 (DPx17) needles as they both have the same length Just found some 29x3 (332) for a good price on Ebay Germany: http://www.ebay.de/itm/10-ORIGINAL-OVP-PFAFF-Leder-Nadeln-Nahmaschinennadeln-3741-01-120-20-29x3-332-/171536511715?pt=N%C3%A4hmaschinen_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item27f05f72e3 I´d grab them for this price ( I have enough needles). The only source I know for older 29K parts in Germany would be this guy: http://www.altenaehmaschine.de I´d contact him - maybe he has what you need.

For sewing you just need the one on the topside. The 2nd tension (the one that is missing) is meant for darning - there is an optional darning device for the 29K and thats what the 2nd tension thing is for. The only person I know who has this device is the LW member WIZCRAFT. I personally have never touched one. But I use this tension unit as a thread guide when I wind the bobbin. The needle is catching the inside of the bobbin housing? I´m not sure what you mean - if you don´t mind post a picture of this "situation". When you loosen the upper screw of the needle holder you can shift the holder a bit sideways. Or you probably have to time the machine. If you need a manual you can download one here (direct download link) BUT it is for the later models with removable gearbox and so forth but I think you will notice the differences. The general information are pretty much the same...

I´d keep the Consew if you don´t have serious space problem! I meanwhile have 4 machines and I`m sure sooner or later I´ll ad one or two more though I have a small space problem.

College Sewing in the UK is a good source for 29K parts https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/catalog/search.aspx?keywords=29K but I´m not sure which will fit for th 29K33 as this is one of the older models so I´d download the parts list for your machine and compare the parts numbers https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/SINGER-29K30-29K33-PARTS-BOOK

WOW - thats really a nice finish! So really he careful with the "Waschverdünnung" stuff! The upper hole is for a tension assembly (including a stud, 2 tension discs, a spring and a nut), the lower hole is a for a set screw that fixes the position of the 360° mechanism when sewing in a certain direction. It prevents the mechanism from moving out of the sewing line.

I paid 15€ for one 40mm pulley not cheap but worth every cent. The Jack motors + speed reducer (also custom made) worked great with the original 75mm pulley, I just wanted to have this little bit of extra torque.

I know - that also bothered me a bit that they have no other pulleys. I now have custom made 40mm pulleys on my two Jack motors but the guy who made them is out of country for a while so I have no access to more atm. I also wanted to order speed reducer pulleys but seems I have to shift it to the next year or find someone else who can make some. Shaft is 13mm, pulley needs grove for the key and it is secured with a nut. That how it goes in the sewing machine business - you do not always get what you want / need so you have to find other solutions. This is nothing that should drive you crazy.

I see! Problem is that my original Singer decals have the transfer paper on the top side so I think the setting solution could be an option. I also googled a bit and found an interesting post ins modeler forum here is an extract: I also got the hint that I should try acrylic / water based hardwood floor finish. I´ll order the solution set after I have tried the 2 above options as I have both available. Maybe I´ll ruin the decals but I just have paid few bucks for them. But I´ll keep 2 or 3 no matter what happens as this is something you´ll probably will never find again. But if it work I´ll repaint my machines (sooner or later) an put the original decals on them.

I have not worked on a 42-5 but I assume it is the needle / hook timing that is a bit off - as most of the times. Check if the tip of the hook meets the needle scarf approx. 1.6mm above the needle eye. Also check if you have insert the needle correctly and if it is the correct needle at all. It takes 16x63 needles which are a bit shorter than 135x17 the Singer 111 type machines takes - if I remember correctly. If it is just the needle hook timing it can be done by adjusting (most likely lowering) the needle bar a little bit. BTW - seems your machine needs some oil - it ook quite dry!

I don´t know what is going on the control box but from my point into view it is an electronic device like any other else. And I think the manufacturer is aware of the "electrical situation" in different countries and that his product will be shipped worldwide. So far I have no problems - no smoke if coming of the box or the like. I guess the control box knows how to deal with alternating current.

I´m not an electrician but yellow / green is alway earth and the other 2 do not matter where you put them on. At least in Germany but if you don´t know how to do it ask an electrician.

It came with a UK plug but it´s easy to replace and the straight bore is 13mm.

I have not noticed your post earlier - sorry! What is kind of solution is it? Do you have more information?

If you can't find a new plate I´d try to heat the bend / cracked era with a blow torch (or similar) and hammer it back and hard solder the crack (not with a soldering iron). If you have no blow torch ask a plumber or black smith in your era. I have seen this on some flat bed Adler 4 needle plates, they even had replaced the broken off piece entirely with silver solder and drilled a new needle hole. So it is not impossible!

Be careful with the stuff from Recolor on the outside!!!! It is more aggressive than the regular paint thinner. Would like to see your machine so I´m looking forward to your new thread.

Got the prices - reducer pulley 50mm / 200mm is 50€, the 160mm shaft is 8€ and the 4 adjustment rings are 2€ each. This already includes shipping to my address. Shipping to Norway is extra. I assume weight will be below 1 Kg so registered shipping will be ~10€. So if you or someone else is interested please send me a PM within the next 3-4 days. BTW - I´m not sure if 160mm is enough, don´t forget the width of the flange in your leg...

So I guess you are from Germany too? I use no grease in my 29K patcher machine - I only use grease for capsuled gear boxes. Ballistol is in my opinion NOT a very good gun or machine oil. Cannot explain it in English - Ballistol zieht Wasser an und emulgiert. It is too expensive as well. Or just in German. Das Fett benutze ich nur in gekapselten Lagern aber nicht bei offenen Zahnrädern (die 29K hat keine gekapselten Lager). Ich benutze bei der Singer 29K nur Öl, weil im Fett Nähstaub usw. hängen bleiben und wenn man Öl verwendet wird Staub usw. bei regelmäßiger Ölung halt zum Teil wieder mit ausgespült. Das ist aber meine Sicht der Dinge - andere haben evtl. eine andere Meinung. But lets keep it in English as it is very international here

It´s nice to these these vintage machines alive! Your 335 REALLY tuned out nice - congratulations.

For internal cleaning (and external when I want to repaint a machine) I use this stuff and a paint brush - not sure how it is called in the US. http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Liter-Waschverdunnung-Verdunnung-Reiniger-von-Recolor-fur-Autolack-WV5000-/190889776705?pt=Autopflege_Wartung&hash=item2c71ead641 It washes down gummed oil + grease really fast. Forget brake cleaner - brake cleaner is a joke compared with the above stuff. For oiling sewing machines and everything else I use S-761 weapons oil. It has a NATO specification and is by far the best I ever used. We used it for our weapons like the MG3 machine gun, HK G36 rifle and HK P8 pistol in the German Army and since then this stuff is my all time favorite oil. I always say - what cleans and lubricates a machine gut can´t be bad for vintage sewing machines http://www.ebay.de/itm/ADDINOL-Waffenol-W18-1-Liter-vollsynthetisch-Korrosionsschutzol-1L-NATO-S-761-/251532836182?pt=Sch%C3%BCtzensport&hash=item3a90867d56 for capsuled gear boxes I use blue long life grease (not for open gears or gear boxes of patcher machines - for these I use the above S-761 oil ) http://www.ebay.de/itm/400g-Fett-Hochtemperatur-Lithium-Komplexfett-Farbe-Blau-Achsfett-KP-2-P-35-/291302135925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item43d2f5d875 But everybody is praising his favorites so you have to decide whether the above mentioned is good or not - I will not switch to anything else.

Jimi - I´m starting to hate you because of your machines - just like Singermania - I don´t like both of you ***just kidding*** Are you making shoes?

Darren is the owner of Able Sewing in Australia. He offers a lot of different needle plates on Ebay but I DO NO KNOW if they will fit for a 45K - contact him through Ebay or send him a PM. http://stores.ebay.com/ablesewing?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Or try to contact the member SINGERMANIA (also from Australia) - he has a HUUUUUUUGE collection of nice vintage sewing machines - maybe he can help you out.

AWESOME - seem there are some more "old cast iron lovers" out there

Jimi - I wish I had your skills + tools for making these things - very impressive! Because of the original decals I have - I have once posted them in this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53584&p=342876 So I really think they are no longer usable. But maybe I just have not the right technique.