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Constabulary

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  1. I just have checked my records and I have a huuuuuge needle chart that shows the needles that the different manufacturers are using with their machines. Since you have a Claes 8345-30 the chart says it takes 88 needles so you actually need a 55mm long needle. Here is a screen shot: But the 332LL needles in your picture look too short. They should measure 55mm (like the 88 needles) but yours look like 332 needles which are 45mm long (the LL makes the difference) Did you get the needles loose or in an original packaging? If you have the original packaging look whats written on it. Why do I ask? Because it happened that I once bought needles from "White Egret" in size 160 and so it was written on the package but inside the package I have found 140 size needles and from that day on I never again bought "cheap needles". So maybe something similar happened to you - wrong needles inside the package. If you received them loose call your supplier and tell him you received wrong / too short needles.
  2. Just figured I have some 88 needles they do not have a scarf but a long and a short grove. I have added some pictures. Don`t get fooled by the picture - they are 55mm long but the closeup makes them look a bit shorter. Distance between top of shank and top of needle eye is 48 - 48.5mm. So you can compare this with the needles for have received.
  3. I have no needles to compare but I know that the Claes patchers take either Sys. 81 or Sys 88 needles. The Sys. 88 is the longer needle and was used in patcher with a higher foot lift. Same with the Adler patchers - the Adler 30-1 takes shorter 332 needles (about 45mm long) and the Adler 30-7 takes the longer 332LL (about 55mm long) needles as it has a higher foot lift. As far as I know the 88 and 332LL have the same length so they should work if both needles have the same length from top to the needle scarf / needle eye. Just insert one and see if the hook meets the needle within the needle scarf. BTW - is your machine really taking 180 / 24 needles? I think that is pretty thick for a patcher. But maybe the Claes can...
  4. The Techsew 5100 is a Juki 441 clone and you can find them in Germany as well - I´d assume that shipping is less and you don`t have to pay custom fees for importing them from outside the EU since GB is a EU member (though Cameron would like to get out as it seem). http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/triple-transport-machines/ http://www.ebay.de/itm/441-Sattlermaschine-mit-220-V-Kupplungsmotor-sofort-startklar-/221582525705?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_N%C3%A4hmaschinen_PM&hash=item3397590509 But it depends - due to the $-GBP or €-GBP exchange rates it could be cheaper to import them from outside the EU but I´d contact the two above and the dealers in the US and Canada and try some negotiation. Some dealer with great reputation have banners on top of this site Be aware of the import charges - they charge you 3.7% (don´t hold me responsible if this is not correct - please check with your customs office) for sewing machines but as far as I remember not only for the sewing machine. They charge 3.7% on the entire amount incl. shipping costs. So add 3.7% to the total amount of your invoice and then add the Great Britain VAT of 20% (if I´m correct). The math is your part!
  5. Have you bought the machine recently or do you own it for a while and have used it before w/o problems? Can you post some pictures of your machine with removed faceplate? Maybe there is something internally "wrong". Bell crank lever broken or disconnected... You never know. Maybe a small video from the internal parts when you are sewing.
  6. probably a needle / hook timing problem or the needle is not insert correctly (slightly angled?)?
  7. Check out Sieck in Germany - for some reason I have in mind that they have some Russian speaking employees. They have the 441 type machines made by HIGHTEX and they deal worldwide. The machines are the same. http://www.sieck.de/maschinen/naehen/armnaehmaschinen/ I have never bought from them but as far as I know they have a good reputation. The prices on their website DO NOT include VAT.
  8. I once worked on a friends 211 and at his machine I was able to adjust the foot hight by repositioning / adjusting this "crank arm" up or down Not sure if it looks the same at you machine as his machine was a 211G and I don´t know if the 211A has different parts.
  9. All feet are sold now!
  10. You cannot adjust the hook hight. If the hook is not meeting the needle scarf as mentioned above you have to adjust the needle bar. You most likely have to lower it a little bit.
  11. This is normal, there should be about 3-4mm (haven' t measured it). Here is a picture of how it looks at my 29K71
  12. Holy cow - your machine really needs a god cleaning! If the brush is not enough to remove the dirt use some kerosene. it will help to remove the old gummed up oil + grease. After that oil the entire machine thoroughly.
  13. Check if you have insert the needle correctly and if the needle scarf is facing straight toward the hook. Check at which point the hook tip meets the needle scarf. The hook tip should meet the needle scarf about 1.6mm above the needle eye when the needle bar is in the upwards movement. Thats what I´d check first.
  14. On Craigslist you sometimes really can make a snap. A couple of weeks ago the member " Hi I´m Joe" has found a really nice Adler industrial walking foot machine for a bargain price. But in most cases the machines need some cleaning & adjustments. And for $200 you cannot expect the most. But without knowing what machine you have found no one can help you. Treadle machines are often just small domestic machines and do not have the strength for leather work and have a limitation on needle sizes. Post some pictures or the maker + model number and I´m sure you will get some statements.
  15. BTW - the 130 (metric size) needle should not bee to thick for leather. It´s rather a too thin thread you are using the 130 (21) needle is for 92 or 138 thread. Are you using leather point needles or round tip? The round tip are meant for clothing and and not for leather. This has been linked a couple of times already but this chart from Toledo Sewing is quite helpful to figure the needle / thread combination: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Print it out and so you always have it at hand
  16. the Consew 225 is a clone of the Singer 111w and the 111w is the forerunner of the Singer 211. So the main information should be the same in your manual. But I will upload a Singer 211 manual for you: 221G155_211G156.pdf
  17. Some pictures of the manuals. Original 132K and 133K are rare as the hens teeth! For these 3 I have no use so if someone is interested. I´d trade or sell them. Now regarding the feed dogs for the 132K and 133K - I have 2 different statements from dealers - one says the 132K feed dogs DO NOT fit for the 133K and the other says they DO fit. So maybe someone can shed some light on this as I don´t like buying parts "just to try" and then returning them because they don´t fit.
  18. K6 is the subclass I guess. I think you have a 132K6, right? Toledo Sewing has a nice chart for needle & thread combinations: http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html
  19. machine works really nice but the feed dog is quite worn so the stitches are quite inconsistent. Seems I have to hunt for a new feed dog or I will try to make one. I have some feed dogs + throat plates for the Adler 104 which "could" be tooled (cutting + welding) to fit for the 133K3. Or is there a chance that you have a feed dog for me? Singer 132B2B is something I´d really like to have but no way to find them over here I think - but never say never. BTW - any chance that you are interested in some ORIGINAL Singer 132K and 133K manuals? Will add some pictures in the days to come.
  20. They are sold already. I had two of them but they are gone. But "modern" thread lubricating boxes are available on Ebay or at the known sewing machine dealers.
  21. to me it looks as if the spring at the shuttle carrier that pushes the shuttle hook against the gear box housing needs an adjustment or to be replaced.
  22. Just painted the rest, assembled the head and put everything else together - runs very well so far. I haven´t timed it yet but is makes 4.5mm - 5mm stitches in cardboard. Pretty good result. If I had no other patcher I´d keep it but my Singer runs a bit smoother and is more compact. Olive Drab is not everybody's cup of tea but I think it is quite nice. Next challenge will be the treadle stand. I think I have to fully disassemble it and grind off the paint.
  23. checked with my friend - his 211 has just one button. Seems I mixed up something.
  24. I have worked on a friends 211 but I could swear it had 2 buttons but you for sure know better
  25. Motor works with all of the mentioned machines as it is connected with a V-belt. But be careful, this is a high speed motor with 3400 rpm. I would either add a small 2" pulley and / or a speed reducer or replace the motor with a new servo motor and if you need extra torque then add a speed reducer too. Measure the cut out in your table and compare it with the measures of the machine you are going to buy. The cut out may fit but the hinges maybe different.
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