Constabulary

I think I once replaced this part on an Adler with a Singer part. The roller could be a problem if I recall correctly on the modern Chinese parts they are held by a c clip and could stick out a bit too far. But I´m not 100% sure. I still have 2 Adler 30 on my shelf and I have an OEM Singer feed motion Ring so I can check but that may take some time... But I have no Chinese parts that I could compare. EDIT: not entirely the same but I once compared 29K1 parts with 29K71 parts:

I do not know the Singer 95-40 but 88x1 is a short serger needle - or not? Aren´t the Singer 95 / 96 and 31 using system 16 needles ex factory? I think the system 16 needles all have the same length. If it was me I would check if is possible to use the same needle in both machines (lets say System 16). Maybe you just have to adjust the needle bar height a little bit.

just googled for some pictures of aloe pump bottles - found it: https://www.arrowsafetycanada.com/products/aloe-care-foaming-72-alcohol-hand-sanitizer-1l-pump-btl So definitely a mirrored picture and therefore no left stand machine except the earth curvature and space time continuum does not play a trick on me (**kidding**).

well - not rude IMO just making fun. Again look at the bottle (of what ever it contains - maybe Aloe hand lotion) on the shelf - the writing on the label is mirrored so Michiels assumption is right.

I think you are right - not knowing the machine but look at the label of the white bottle on the shelf Maybe that's hand lotion for left handed sewing machine operators.

Needle probably hit a hard spot or the needle plate and the NB moved up. I think you can reach the NB clamp screw from the front side see red circle (pic stolen from the WWW) check the attached file - it may help you with adjustments. Adjustment Pfaff 138.pdf

The 44 seems to be the short bed version of the Singer 31 / 31K. So I would go that route when looking for a manual. Major difference IMO is the bed size and the 44-30 seems to have a roller foot everything else IMO is like the Singer 31 / 31K.

thats what I forgot to mention

What WW1 stuff do you sew - "stuff" can mean a lot!? Maybe try - Hoogen Linen Thread (like #4 or #5), it was used for sewing shoe soles. I´m using it for sewing 9-10mm thick leather handles sometimes when restoring record field chests and the like. Other than than check GRUSCHWITZ linen threads - check the last 2 files in the list: https://www.gruschwitz.com/en/products/standard-products.html

At what point are you with your machine? With bobbin housing you mean the complete hook or just the bobbin case? If you have installed the hook on the drive shaft the bobbin case is held in place by a retainer and a bar that goes from left to right (positioning finger): https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1347-98419-bobbin-case-retainer-seiko-singer.html https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/103011-2528-singer-133k-bobbin-case-position-finger.html You should stay in the thread you started so we do not have to ask for pictures again (if needed) and it is easier to follow your steps.

thansk a lot - I will posts some update pictures maybe later today. I´m a bit occupied with annoying things.

could be the friction between leather and needle. The thicker the leather and the thicker the needle the more friction you have. Try sewing some other material like webbing or thinner leather and to check if it is still squeaking. A titanium coated needle (like GEBEDUR) may reduce the friction - maybe worth trying.

weeeellll.... Not the same machine - I´m aware of that - but my decades old Singer 45D91 is matching in F + R no mater the stitch length I dialed in. It has an internal "butterfly" and the adjustment screw (the one left of the reverse lever) is the stop for the forward "wing" and for the reverse "wing" (if you can imagine what I mean). Pretty simple and very effective design. I think it is the same F + R mechanism as in the 31K32 just scaled up. But thats maybe not fancy enough for nowadays machines. The simple things are often the best. But that's a different story but looks like it was possible to design a simple and effective reverse mechanism decades ago already. Wondering if original JUKI 441 users have F + R problems with their machines as well. To be honest in the 21st Century a sewing machine factory and their dealers should be able to set up F + R stitch length matching if that is not possible (ex factory) I would say back to the drawing board. I don´t think this should be anything magic that sometimes work and sometimes don`t work (on a new machine). If it does not work then what is the purpose of having the reverse? You cannot expect that every sewing machine user is a tinkering guy and is able to help his / herself. If the only problem was a few washers then why not include them and mention the process in the manual (takes a few hours for creating a few pages and include them in the manual). If washers are included and the "how to" is mentioned in the manual (f.i. as in Singer 111G156 / 211 manuals ) - fine - if not - IMO factory / dealer failure and I would not accept the machine and either have the dealer to fix it , return the machine or get some $ back. 1K or 3K or 10K - does not matter IMO. From the perspective of a average sewing machine customer: If the machine has reverse I would expect that it works properly under normal sewing conditions and it has been properly adjusted when I´m buying a new machine (used from private seller is a different story). This has nothing to do with bashing or assaulting this is just what I would expect when I´m buying a new device. Conclusion: when there is a simple solution for the F+ R stitch length issue it should be mentioned in the manual - thats stupid simple.

Not sure if I got you right... To me it sounds like you have everything on hand already (incl binders) and even know how it should look like so what you need a is just a 2nd right side slide plate for attaching the binders - or not? Binder too far form the feet? Drill new holes closer to the feet or make a small extension that brings the binder closer... If it takes too long to chance out the sync. binder bracket and so forth (5 minutes at max.?) I would look for a 2nd 145 machine so you can switch the heads. 1 head fro plain sewing - 1 for binding work. what is that?

to my knowledge it is the same. 9345 is the Pfaff / Metro number and 8345 the original CLAES Number

Its a 8345-30 - great machines CLAES are the best patcher machines you can find (and that says Singer nerd ) . Longest stitch length, larges bobbin, highest foot lift and no bell crank lever that can wear down. If you need manual or a parts list for this machine send me a PM. But I have no accessories for it - Glenn is you best source in this regard!

Ha - looks like I broke google - haven´t found it for what ever reason. heard of that... damn... I think I would have called it sewing device or so.... maybe we will have something like it - one day - maybe

Thanks for this little history lesson, Bruce. It´s interesting. So what did Tandy do with the patent? Have they ever fabricated and marketed this Duncan Leather Punch? Or has the patent just collected dust in their drawers? Are there any pictures of Duncan Leather Punch? Seems I cannot find the patent online.

There is so much cast iron you will not overheat it with a heat gun, not even even with a gas blow torch.... you don´t want it "red glowing" just hot enough that the bushing can break free when you tap it. Is there probably a 2nd screw holding the bushing?

Cool device - wondering why it took so long that some came up with something like this. Pretty sure sooner or later you will have some far east copies of it I guess. Maybe someone can invent something for this device that it can use 2 threads and make a knot automatically that is then centered in the middle of 2 layers - Imagine that wouldn´t that be crazy?

Then I think the bushing is gummed or rusted in place (you never know) and you have to apply heat (hot air) with a heat gun for a while (big bushing embedded in quite some cast iron so it may take some time), a gas blow torch may work better but will burn the paint. Dont know if you have a larger splint driver so you could tap the bushing around the shaft somethings a gentle hammer strike will do the job but do not damage the bushing! I had to adjust the bushing on my 108w20 when I installed a new hook but in just the opposite direction. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79339-singer-108w20-my-new-binder-setup/?do=findComment&comment=528295

I think you have to remove the feed dog holder bar and the hook and then tap the bushing to the right IF it has no collar on the left side (not sure).

yeah, its the same hole as for the dip stick. There are no replacement decals for this machines. you may check with Keeler decals, maybe they can make them. https://www.singerdecals.com/miscellaneous/ I have a similar machine on my bench atm and can provide some good clear pictures of the decals if needed.

apply heat with a gas blow torch

The download here in the 1st post is of better quality