oltoot

FYI Little trick for spacing daisy type stamps: I have picked up several pieces in different spacings of clear plastic rug runners. Pressing the selected piece down on slightly damp leather leaves little marks from the cleats. Shopping at home supply places has yielded a collection of various patterns

FYI: I stuff mine with woolskin trimmings from skirt linings, stuff it in wet with a hammer handle then fan dry it. Tanned wool is an unusual material in that it shrinks when wet and swells as it dries

Weight is one reason, a slick fork with rolls will come in a couple pounds lighter than a swell fork and in the very beginning, slick forks were usually a little kinder to the horses and thus preferred by the owners

My old trick: Find a loose, unadhered spot somewhere in the middle and tear the lining off and outward; when you get to the stitching you can cut more easily from the inside with a sharp pointed knife and then pick stitches. I have tried various tricks to pull the top thread or bobbin thread (will depend on how the maker's machine was adjusted) but have found that trying to start there will often prolong the exercise while just waiting to see and then going with the flow works better. If the old lining is already torn, use it.

You didn't ask about needle and awl vs single needle. BSS alluded to it but didn't go into depth. If I were you (which I am not being old and wore out instead of young and still finding a groove) I would put the following at the top of my list but I would not wait forever if my needs were more urgent): A #3 Landis still on a treadle stand that has never been motorized. Your budget may be the driving force and the amount of time you have to learn may lead you to one of the 441 clone dealers. You can outdo your hand stitching with any properly adjusted stitcher. If you go with a 441 clone, pick a dealer, not just a seller. This will be the exception to the rules about $$. A few extra for service and coaching will be well spent if they turn out to be needed. Good luck to you and remember that no matter what machine you pick you will still need to handsew (or hand finish) some parts. Buena suerte

I always wanted to (or felt I needed to) use just a little bit heavier leather than Al Stohlman prescribed and this would make a pattern just a little too small and as for left handed, just turn the right handed pattern over and voila!

Or perhaps a cart harness pad

My approach: first build a core of PVC, there are many sizes and weights available, then shape with colored duct tape or something similar, then cover with Kangaroo lace or rawhide, my knot of preference is a pineapple raised however many times it takes to cover the core nicely. Scarves vary in bulk depending on size and fabric. I have ~ 40 of various colors and fabrics to match each one of my shirts. I regularly use 4 different slides, 2 rawhide and 2 kangaroo. I give slides as presents since I wouldn't pay what I would have to charge if I sold them. Just my 2 cents

Learn to use a draw gauge and when you do, you'll never look back. Like all tools, learn to sharpen and then, not the only way, just my way, select blades with a sharp point and punch in to the beginning of the strap leaving ~ 1/2 inch attached to make handling the strap easier then cut it loose after finishing.

The only way to guarantee never to break another awl blade is to quit sewing. After awhile you will become a connesueir of certain types of awl blade construction and still will have to deal with a broken one once in awhile. Learning to aim first and follow through without adjusting mid stroke to try to get it to come out straight will come with time.

Sonny Felkins, Quality Mfg., Monticello, Utah

Myself, I have settled on 3/8 thick, hollow ground, straight for the vast majority of work. Blade control accommodates varying tasks better than trying to switch blades, IMHO

I'm late, I know, but here is what I came to while I was saving for a needle and awl stitcher (and putting in a pitch for a new UL, it is still going strong after 40+ years and 100's of sheepskins sewed with ease). Glue sheepskin down (I use Barges) then trim off to about 1/4 from edge, if you have large scissors you can pre trim the fleece at an angle thus reducing the amount you will have to deal with, then as you go, wet the fleece thoroughly about 1" from edge with a sponge, you will find that you can part the fleece from the awl tip as it pokes through and keep it parted long enough to pass by. When done just squeeze out the water and let it dry before trimming to edge.

All good responses. Know your leather. If you were paying for #1 backs, you would have the right to expect "ssmooth" flesh sides, if Tannery Run sides then you would expect to find some flanky spots

Yes, but you cant do as good a job. And to do it right you will need to fit a top plug of plywood over the metal. Recovering over the swell cover is pretty much OK if it's going to be covered up with a mulehide wrap and then a rubber overwrap and can be done much cheaper. As long as it's thoroughly explained and customer get's to choose.

TIP "faux" molding with just your fingers before tooling then final molding will help a little

1,3,and 8

Too much to be called a rebuild

How many feet of string?

This basic; if a saddle is too tight anywhere, more pads can only make it tighter, if it's too big, however, pads can fill in spaces. That makes the decision as to have a "colt" saddle or not one complicated by lots of things, dollars being big. It is certainly true that colts' new worlds of being changed from a free to controlled being are really full of change and what a great blessing it is that most are remarkably flexible and adaptable. All that said, we can just try not to hurt or scare them as we introduce them to the role they will occupy for years to come. If we can avoid that we have great things to look forward to. We run the risk of overthinking this as we try not to be thoughtless. Balance!!

Let me add a little consternation. I would forget about all the template, etc stuff and remember that if you get too specific to a particular horse, that horse will probably only be in service for another 6-10 years and a good saddle, well cared for, should last 30 or more so ask Sonny Felkins or somebody as well informed to fit the type of horses you will be riding over time and invest in a good pad if it doesn't fit a particular horse perfectly. Saddle fitting beyond getting the appropriate gullet width and bar configuration is a big waste of time and energy, IMHO. Thankfully, horses are remarkably uniform in their conformation in the area where saddles sit. And learn to skive cause you can always take a little off but it's purt near impossible to add it on. And you pretty much get what you pay for when it comes to leather and most other important things. So don't plan on this turning out cheap cause it wont. You will, of course, use cheap labor so it will all come out in the wash and plain is plain and not much can be said for it. Add whatever level of decoration you can do and please yourself. Life's too short to dance with ugly women or fellas. Only initials or monograms will affect the resale.

From using, repairing, making; Rawhide holds up better in all but the most humid climes but it is more demanding to work with. Once you start,you have to carry through to finish which adds a little demand in learning to sew a cantle binding, straight up or Cheyenne roll but maybe you should settle for comfort in completion for your first and try rawhide after you have sewn a cantle binding or 2.

What he said with a little extra to think about. Skirt rigs require some sewing experience to get them right whereas a plate rig is pretty much straightforward and well within the capacity of any good machine. And with a good set of buck rolls you will have most of what a swell fork provides without the weight. Sonny Felkins is a great choice IMHO.

Don't ever complain about being unlucky but be prepared to spend several more 80 bucks to get it going. If you go the whole route you will end up with something worth 2-3 thousand dollars. Yes there are any number of silicone based thread lubes available from places like Weaver Leather that will work in hot wax pots with the right strippers installed and run without heat. 110 motors are more than adequate for this stitcher.

Fender is on the wrong side, otherwise I have nothing to add