bland

You could also not use gussets. Keep the little tabs you have sew up the sides either so you can turn it. You could also do a lap seam or just stitch them together flat. Then bring the tab up and sew it in on the inside or outside. So many possibilities. Here is one I did. It is pretty narrow only about 2" wide but it holds computers or a 2 inch binder.

That historic holster looks to be a little tricky. With double flaps, cut outs and mag pouch all in one. I don't have an actual ppk but I do have a copy. But not a copy of the historic holster. Below are the basic dimensions if it helps if not read no further. Dimensions 155 mm by 110 mm. Slide width front 23 mm at serrations 25 mm, depth 28.5 mm. Barrel in front of trigger guard 45 mm. Depth at trigger guard 57 mm. Angle of handle to barrel is about 108 degrees. It begins 50.8 mm from front of trigger guard so about 96 mm from the front. It is also about 50 mm wide. Depending on the grips the handle circumference is about 130 mm. Magazine is 25 mm x 9.5 mm x 95 mm. It also has an angle to match the handle. Picture from internet search. I did see one in the search with the symbol above the keeper tab.

Very nice! Good to see you back.

very nice

I do find it helpful to change my needle to a smaller size when using poly thread. You may still have to make some minor adjustments to the tension as well.

Beautiful

Very nice.

Very cool

I know this is an older thread but I would have the step-ins taper to the knee (not too tight) and then flare a little at the calf and straight straight down from there. Kind of like in this picture I found here. Patterns for Chaps, Chinks and Armitas : Sew Your Own : Equine Web Design

Are you tooling the yokes and back=belt? For me I like a tooled yoke in the 5oz to max 8oz range or about 2mm to 3mm. When you sew them to the body it will make them in the 3.5 to 4.5 mm. I don't want them to be too stiff as it makes them a little uncomfortable. For the back belt I would line it and be up in the 10 to 12oz range or 4mm to 5mm. I also like them to come apart in the event I get hung up so the front belt is single ply 2mm to 3mm. Some people like them heavier so... As far as color I would go with a light oil finish and antique if you like.

Take a saddlers' awl/spike and punch a hole in the center of the rivet and pull it apart. Easiest way with least damage to the project.

Thanks to all. Big smiles Christmas morning. Third set now completed not for Christmas.

Last minute Christmas order for a couple young cowboys. Hopefully they get there in time. Merry Christmas.

I'll go with repair. Looks like some of the original parts may have been used (buckles). Looks great.

I think it looks great even better than the original.

Cutting all depends on the projects you have planned for the hide. There are numerous ways to cut the hide. For belts and straps goods the higher in the back at the butt end to toward the shoulder is best in my opinion. Depending on the length of your straps or belts you can measure up the butt end to the desired length and cut it to length all the way across leaving the but end and shoulder end. Or you can cut the bend (butt to shoulder minus the belly) again to your measurements. Leaving you with the shoulder and belly attached. Or trim off the belly and leave the top. The belly and neck are good for molded projects. If you are trying to stay away from the brands you can take that into consideration as well. Or you can incorporate them into your project. When working with brands you need to know the leather is generally weaker in that area and doesn't stretch or form well. Anyway, there are many ways of cutting your leather for the projects you have in mind. Have Fun!

I think it looks great here are a couple things you might want to look at. To my eye I think you could drop/extend your front jockeys lower. Follow the contour of your front skirt rounded off to an imaginary line running under your seat jockey and meet up with your back jockeys. Another thing is to have covered stirrups or at least leather treads. I'm not a big fan of the breast collar dee on the hangers, although I have put them on a couple, I've never had one fail but I'm not working in them every day. Anyway, I think it looks great and asking for ideas and critiques can only make you better.

Sounds like you got into a bad piece of leather. Don't know what or if there is tooling but from what you described it sounds pretty far gone. If it were me, I would throw that one in the give away (Goodwill) pile and start again. No sense losing a customer over bad leather. You can push one and get it finished in a day, you're a pro.

Then as others have said. Make the spread about the same as the width of the lace maybe a little longer. i.e. if your lace is 1/2 make your slots 1/2 to 3/4 inch apart depending on the look you like. I would do a test piece to see what is appealing to you. If these are for working chaps I would use lace smaller than 3/8 inch 1/2 inch or something in the 10mm to 13mm range. Then on the backside spread you could go up to 2 to 3 inches or 50 to 75mm. Again your test piece will show you what you like.

Are you using conchos to lace through? If so use slightly further apart than the concho.

Stylistically you'll want them to compliment your yoke design and the style of chaps. So there can be a variety of sizes. Generally the size range fredk recommended is perfect.

In my opinion, I would carve then line. Carving and stamping requires a solid surface to get good impressions. Then add the complexity of carving a rounded object. A swell cover on a western saddle at least has a solid surface under the leather but you're carving at odd angles. I'm thinking with a holster it might be more tricky to keep the solid surface where you need it. I think the bond for gluing will be ok as it will inevitably slightly bigger than it needs to be when you get get the holster closed up. Just another opinion.

Top 1/3 of the back for strap goods, breast collars, rear cinch, guitar straps (could be toward the shoulder area of the back it will be a little more flexible). Lay out the projects you have planned for the side. Sounds like the taps depending on length may be your biggest item. Toward the butt of the back will be your firmest.

Do you have the Leather Crafter's Journal they came out of? They usually have a picture of a finished product. What I'm seeing on the fold back pattern looks like your buckle piece will be sandwiched between the face piece and the billet strap. Then a keeper will also be through the bag punch holes and is sandwiched between as well. After the billet goes through the ring it will go back through the buckle and the keeper. In the thread through the billet looks like it goes through the 3/4 inch holes but it doesn't show where the buckle will go. Is there another piece of the pattern? Here is a similar style from southtexastack.