bland

What did you use for a resist? How long ago did you apply the antique? What antique did you use? Sometimes you can use the "resist" if you use Resolene or Tan Kote to clean some of it off won't pull it all off but it can help.

Looking at that knife, I wouldn't say it just looks like you know what you are doing. You know what you are doing. Looks like maybe two files a round file and triangle file?

Very nice!!! What did you do on the spine? Very cool!

I just received a suspended edge guide for my Juki 1508 NH 5 minutes before I saw your post. I ordered it on Amazon for $30. Quality looks pretty good. I'll let you know once I attach it an try it out later this afternoon.

You could do it either way single layer of heavy veg-tan or multiple. If you go with one layer you will want a stiff sole bend or skirting leather to make a good rigid belt. You will want to skive down your turn-back around your buckle. If you go with multiple layers you could run 1 layer short and just go up to the buckle and then your turn back would be half as thick. I haven't made any suede covered belts and have always just burnished the edges so I can't speak on edge treatment but edge paint should work. For me I would add at least one more stitch line for a two tongue buckle or two stitch lines for a single tongue buckle.

For me personally I would put a latigo horn wrap under the rubber.

Here is how Stohlmans' suggest dealing with a metal horn. Basically the same thing that Blue62 suggested with the rivets. It is best to remove the fork cover but it can be trimmed around the base of the horn and put a horn wrap on mulehide or latigo (clockwise for right handed roper). They will need to change out the wrap when it starts wearing out before it is worn out.

https://leathercraftersjournal.com/product/creating-western-floral-designs-bob-park/

Beautiful!

Thanks for the tip. I downloaded that e-book from Tandy .

Thanks, it's kind of cool. It is a first for me so still trying to work some things out. It just looks a little off maybe it will look better when I get a buckle on it.

I'm working on a pattern for billets for a rough out belts and have some questions. How do I determine the correct length of billets to balance the belt. Is there a ratio between the billet end and the buckle end.

Many of the saddle manufacturers can put mule bars on trees. You can get Herman Oak single sides from several suppliers Weaver, Springfield Leather and many others. I believe you can get Wicket and Craig leather in single sides directly from them. Here is a past post with some of the saddle tree manufactures on it. It is an old post and prices have gone up but the tree makers in the post are still around. There are others as well.

What do you have left?

I say go for it. While, Bruce is probably correct it may tear like a postage stamp. Communication is key. Let the customer know that it is distinct possibility and watch for any signs of it. Have him contact you at the first signs Let him know you would be happy to make him a new fender, take a pattern of the fender and tooling. If he sees signs of it tearing he can give you a call and order the fenders. Gives you time to build the fenders and him riding his beloved saddle.

I own a couple of machines now and I have been quite happy with both. A 441 clone Cobra class 4 and a Juki 1508 NH. I had no experience with leather sewing machines when I got the Cobra and had a few struggles the learning curve was quite steep. I thought I could just make adjustments and go from heavy to light materials quickly and easily. Not so much the case. Thankfully for this forum and a good dealer with great customer service. I learned quickly that one machine does not do it all easily. I can do fine tuning but no radical changes anymore for me. The class 4 is set up for heavy work only now. I bought the Juki from a local sewing shop where I knew a little more of what I was looking for now that I had my heavy machine. I opted for a flatbed machine that would still sew some significant veg tan leather as well as some softer chap and upholstery leather when required. My advice is if you don't have a lot of experience working on or with industrial sewing machines it is worth getting one from a reputable dealer who will give great customer support and some expert advice. Who will know what needle size and thread size you will need. Ask a lot of questions, based on the kind of projects you will be doing (small backpacks, etc.), how much you will be using it, what features you want, shop space requirements and etc. You will probably have to pay $1500 to $5000 depending on your requirements. I believe your profile says you in California you might give Leather Machine Co a call and maybe visit with them as they are in Ontario, CA they have a variety of machines and if you are close by you may be able to save shipping costs. There are probably other industrial sewing machine shops in California as well that would be happy to help you. P.S. Local dealers might even have machines you can try out to see what you like best.

Do you have more pictures?

Makes sense now. Thanks for your help.

Found this clip in the oil sump of my Juki 1508NH while I was doing some maintenance. Can't really see where it goes. it is pretty light weight and about the size of a quarter. Does anyone know where it belongs on my machine? Thanks.

I just came into some older tools from a saddle maker. There were a few home made ones mostly bevelers, quite a few old craft tools and the ones in the photo. Just curious if someone knows who may have made them.

They look like leaf liners to me.

Very nice Ryan, the tote is incredible! It is far beyond my capabilities. For the sake of a critique there is one thing that draws my eye away from the beautiful carving. It is the lacing, especially at the corners as they are not covered well. Maybe you could go through the 3 holes around the corner twice using a flatter and wider lace. Another option is to use a double loop lacing or Mexican round braid as I think it would help set off your braided handles. Anyway, great work as always!!

It depends on the look you are going for. You can stitched them in and/or riveted them in. Line them or not. If you use saddle skirting don't line or use lighter leather and line. I like an overall thickness of 10 to 12 oz. Others may like a different weight.

I know I couldn't get a uniform thickness with a razor blade. Some shops near you may have a splitter and would be willing to do the job. The time and frustration you save yourself from will be worth it.

You might try posting this in the leather sewing machine forum. There are some very helpful people that follow that forum. Good luck. http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/